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In Reply to: Re: Anybody set up to do decent quality single-sided circuit boards? posted by ClarkeGreene on October 17, 2005 at 11:34:16:
How 'bout using these with your favorite board material?Thanks. Though I don't see how I'd be able to mount a PC mount transformer to them. :)
You did give me an inspiration though. Eyelets. Only problem is that the tooling would cost me over $1,000. Perhaps a good investment for down the road, but right now it's more than I want to spend.
What I need are through holes with pads. I figured there'd be somebody around here set up to do their own circuit boards.
se
Follow Ups:
Somebody beat you to it. See the link.I quote, "The unskilled Operator can produce Professional looking
assemblies quickly and with little effort."I'm not sure whether you're unskilled or not, but Professional looking sounds pretty good.
Somebody beat you to it. See the link.I quote, "The unskilled Operator can produce Professional looking
assemblies quickly and with little effort."I'm not sure whether you're unskilled or not, but Professional looking sounds pretty good.
Ah, I've seen that before.
Too bad the Keystone tooling won't work for the size eyelets I'll need to use. The stuff is dirt cheap. However the smallest OD eyelet they'll work with is 0.062 and the eyelets I'll need to use have ODs of 0.03 and 0.045.
At least it confirms that the drill press idea is a workable one.
Thanks!
se
Picky, picky...
Picky, picky...
Well, it's like that old dirty joke. Don't want to have to tie a 2x4 across their asses to keep 'em from fallin' in. :)
se
Hoffman amps sells eyelets for 1/16 boards, and the tools to install them. FYIhttp://hoffmanamps.infinology.net/MyStore/perlshop.cgi?ACTION=thispage&thispage=parts12.htm&ORDER_ID=276116607
Bob
Thanks, Bob!The tool seems to be rather crude though.
I've been thinking of just buying the proper form and anvil tools for the eyelets (which mushrooms the open end rather than just flaring it) and just make a jig to use them in my drill press. That would be less costly than buying the $895 press.
se
You can make your own eyelet tool out of a piece of hard steel the right diameter , such as a drill shank. If you use one of the twist drills designed to mount in a standard 1/4" power driver this becomes easily changeable too. A good tool for cutting the flare is the 1/8" carbide cutter that goes on a dremel - they are about $AUD15 here so I guess they are less than $USD10.Use a drill bit the same diameter as the outer diameter of the eyelet to be pressed. Cut the fluted part of the drill off with a cutoff wheel. Mount the shank in a drill press or other slow drill chuck and have it rotating at the lowest speed you can. Take the dremel with the 1/8" carbide tip rotating at full speed and hold it so it is at right angles to the drill shank. Gently take the dremel in to the shank about 6 mm up from the cut end so that it cuts a rounded groove. If you want a large groove width simply angle the dremel across the shank slightly - you end up with a hyperbolic curve this way but in practice it seems to work just as well.
Keep cutting until the diameter at the bottom of the groove is the inside diameter of the eyelet to be flared. Do this slowly in multiple passes so as not to get the shank too hot or it will lose its hardness. Once the groove is formed, take the cutoff wheel and cut though the shank a bit more than half way across the groove so that what is left is the top half of the groove cut. Bevel off this cut edge (the carbide tool will do this) and you have an eyelet flare for next to nix.
More is learnt from one bold error than from a hundred craven equivocations - Daniel Dennett
Mark Kelly
Hmmm. Not sure I can see pulling that off for a tool that will be used on eyelets as small as these.Here's what the "proper" forming tool and anvil look like:
You can see that the "flare" on the forming tool is concave, not convex. Also the pin on the anvil tool is spring loaded to allow it to be displaced by the pin on the forming tool as the eyelet is pressed.
Keep in mind that the eyelets I plan to be using will have an ID of between 0.02 and 0.035.
se
No, I've never worked on anything that small. The method I describe will work down to a couple of mm. Anything further than that would require great precision.
Mark Kelly
No, I've never worked on anything that small. The method I describe will work down to a couple of mm. Anything further than that would require great precision.
Yup. I think just buying the forming and anvil tools and using a jigged drill press would be the better solution.
se
Y'all gettin' jiggy with it, Steve....er, Mr. Precision. ;--)
Yo, homey! I gets me some solid gold eyelets and be addin' some bling bling to dat arm youse sendin'! :)se
Hmmm....a combination of both Miss-ippi and Brooklyn-speak. You've been inhaling too much solder.
Hmmm....a combination of both Miss-ippi and Brooklyn-speak. You've been inhaling too much solder.
Nah. I'm just... eclectic. :)
se
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