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I hardwired my PC into my cdp (Arcam 8). I have lost my lows and the mids are not full. Both are present but with no body. Very recessed. I compared it too my turntable last night.I re did the connections and this seemed to help some, but this may have been a vib reduction thing.
I did apply alot of heat to some of the joints that are near some of the items on the pcb. Could I have fried a resistor, cap or something? How would I check for this or should I just replace most of the surrounding items?
New CDP? Send it to someone?
This is my first non reversible screw up.
Thanks.
Follow Ups:
Unexplainable – I was thinking I needed to completely overhaul the cdp or buy a new one.Just for grins I replace my current feet (hex nuts that had sounded great) with my old black diamond racing cones number 4s. The sound return to something acceptable, maybe good, it is still settling in.
My only guess is that the new PC changed the way the cdp vibrates, thus making the hex nut not work well.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Oops,This isn't the way a tweak should turn out!Hi,are you sure you can't temporarly reverse your handywork?It might be possible,I've had it where you've done a mod and don't want to undo it because you know its a significant twaek and you want it to work.A mental thing if you like.Try to reverse!As for testing surrounding parts,what do you think could be suspect?Are the components part of the audio side of things,or power supply?If you think you damaged the supply,measure the voltage.Can you Identify the circuit,bridge or diodes followed by smoothing caps,then possiby some sort of bypass parts and on to Regulators and audio circuits after.Check on the live PCB traces with a meter,plus and minus volts of the same voltage either side of GND.If the smoothy caps have say have 35 volts written on their jackets,the voltage reading you get would be under 35 volts.Can you Identify any regulators?High voltage on one lead,low votage(regulated)out on the other with GND in-between.
Resistors,Can you read coloured bands on them?Or are there any markings on them?If coloured bands,do a Google for Resistor Colour Chart.Put your meter on resistance(ohms) and take a reading to see if it matches with the numbers in the chart.
Capacitors,I don't know how to test these,so if you can read of a printed value,maybe you can replace it and see what it does.
How hot was your iron?I haven't used a powerful one in ages.Mines varible temperature to 50watt.Normaly I think heat damage would be visible.Unless you have surface-mount parts,which are smaller than normal parts.And I've never worked with them.
Sometimes a hot iron can lift a PCB track from the board,on close inspection,I've often lifted a pad,the ring of copper around a component lead,or just created a crack between it and the track,so get a magnifying glass out.Make sure you got a good source of light.It helps somtimes to view your work under Flourescent light or Daylight if weather is good.Hope something has helped.And if your getting Irate and angry with it,go have a Smoke,Tea,Coffee or a Beer,relax and think of Beach or somthing.It problem could be stareing you in the face.
Let us know how your gettin on.Goodluck.mikee55
Did Soundripples hard-wire the power cord previously used on the CD player, or a new one?If a new one, is the gauge the same?
Lack of bass may be due to smaller wire or increased series resistance in the connection.
The quickest way to tell is to measure the AC line voltage at the outlet, then at the place where the power cord is attached to the CD player circuit board. If there is something wrong with the power cord or connection, the AC voltage will measure lower at the CD player than it does at the outlet. This measurement would have to be done with the CD player operating, so be careful in getting the meter probes on to the proper points on the printed circuit board.
I think he mentioned the use of 20 AWG wire to connect the power cord to the PCB. I prefer to use no less than 12 AWG to connect IEC inlets (similar application), and would use no less than 18 AWG in any case.
v
PC is Power Cable not computer in this case (nt)
Check the impedance of the computer input you used, it may be too low. The general rule that the audio industry follows is "a low impedance into a high impedance. The next question is "how high is up ? This dictum is followed because there is no standard in the industry for input & output impedances of units. The best sonics are obtained when impedances are matched between units. You can change the output or input impedance of a unit by inserting a given value R at the output/input point in series with the output/input and another R of the same value behind the output/input R to ground. I've probably totally confused you by now. If you want to increase the input impedance of a unit disconnect the input lead from the input RCA plug (female), etc. and connect a R of your chosen impedance from the RCA to the input line/trace, etc. Then connect a R of the same value from the end of the 1st resistor furthest from the input RCA to ground. The input impedance of the unit is now the value of the R's you have installed. The given impedance for a unit is, by convention, the unit's impedance taken @ 1K Hz. I would suggest an input impedance of at least 10K for starters.Happy Listening !
Sorry for the missunderstanding, but PC is power cable. I work with computers all day, the last thing I want is for them to be part of my sytem
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