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I lifted partially the board trace that surrounds one leg of an output transistor (circle trace around the leg). I lifted about half of the circle (1/8"), the rest of the circle remains intact on the board and touches where the transistor leg comes through.My question is can I just solder connect where I lifted (to complee the circle) when I solder the transistor leg in or do I have to do more like use a piece of solder wick, repair kit, etc.
Thnx,
Follow Ups:
I am using a 45 watt desoldering gun. I just lost my attention and that was that. I very much appreciate the input, everything is out at this point and all I need to do now is solder in the transistor.I should be OK...?:> )
Thnx for the piece of mind, this kind of thing never happened before. If I need more assistance as a result of lifting the rest, I will let you know.
Regards,
Does your desoldering gun have a temp control on it? If so, you may want to turn it down to 600-700. Also whne desoldering some like to put pressure and move the iron back and forth to loosen the leg, what ever you do don't do this because this will cause breaking and lifting of traces/islands. If a desoldering iron is work properly then all the solder will be removed and the part should just come very easy (no prying), sometimes on thicker traces the part will not come completely loose when desoldering and all you can do is get as much solder off as you can and then take your solder iron and touch and then move the leg/lead away from trace/island that it has contact with but don't force it just let the solder melt and then slightly push the lead so its loose, you can also do this same procedure while very very slightly pulling on the part (this works with most discrete component) but if more than one lead/leg is like this then I would try to use a better desoldering iron or solder wick if it will fit in that area. The desoldering iron must be cleaned after every use to keep it at it top performance, I know we something forget to clean them (even me) but I rarely have this problem with a clean desoldering iron, most of the time this happens when I forgot to keep the iron clean. One other thing I would like to add to pkell44 advice is that when your soldering iron/desoldering iron is not being used put some solder on the tips, this keeps the tips from wearing out fast and keeps them nice and shiney because if you don't keep them clean/shiney there will be poor heat transfer and the part/trace will not wet properly.
The bottom post gives you very good advice and should help you out alot. If you lift the rest of the pad (Island) let me know and I will help you repair the trace, it will take some time but you will be able to do it. Are you using a desoldering gun or tool? pkell44 is right about the temperature because if its too hot you will certainly damage more traces. also use flux (rosin) when soldering help make a very good contact.
If you lose the 'donut' pad bend the component lead down against the trace and solder it to the trace, keeping the lead as short as practical.
I would carefully lift any remaining solder on the pad (mounting circle) with solder wick. Then, again carefully, re-solder the lead of the transistor to the pad. If you don't lift any more of the pad/trace you should be in good shape. The pcb you have the problem with is obviously not a high quality pcb, or you are using too much heat when you solder. If you're going to continue tweaking it would be a good idea to invest in a good temp controlled iron with a range of changeable tips. Set your iron temp for about 500-600 deg. F and be sure the iron is up to temp before you solder. Clean the iron's tip on a wet sponge and re-tin it each time before you solder. A dirty tip or dry tip transfers heat very poorly and can lead to problems such as have encountered. Also, get a tube of anti-seize and apply it to the threaded part of the iron after removing the tip that comes with the iron before its' first use. It will prevent the tip from 'freezing' to the iron. Each time you change tips clean the mounting screw of the iron and re-apply some anti-seize compound to the iron. When you first heat the iron the anti-seize compound will give off quite a bit of smoke, which is normal. When soldering be sure that the tip of the iron heats the work to melt the solder, NEVER the tip of the iron or you will probably have a 'cold joint', which will appear to be dull gray rather than shiny, which is the mark of a good joint. Always apply heat to the pad FIRST until it melts the solder and then move the tip against the component lead and pad and apply a little more solder to complete the joint.
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