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Hello,
I need 50V 10,000uf power supply caps for my Marantz 2250B receiver. The originals are 35mm in dia and 80mm tall. My unit has a "buzz" to it and I suspect it needs new power supply caps.What would be an upgrade cap for this receiver without wasting money on some exotic caps?
Follow Ups:
Hi Lou,
Thanks for the help.OK to be sure: All I do is solder ONE Black Gate to ONE Nichicon main Power Supply filter cap. The (+) side of the Black Gate goes to the (+) of the Nichicon and the (-) of the Black Gate goes to the (-) on the Nichicon. I do this for each Nichicon.
I also solder The RTX to each Nichicon the same way I soldered the Black Gate. The orientation of the RTX does not matter.
Please verify that the above is correct.
I do not know what a RTX is, please explain. Where can I get them?
I looked in an old Percy catalog and don't know which Black Gate to order. I assume I should order an Axial style. The old catalog has 100uf 50v Standard Polarized Balck Gates for $4.50ea. Is this what I should order? Any cheaper alternatives to the Black Gate?
Do you think the Nichicon KG Gold would be an upgrade over the original without the Black Gate/RTX Mod?Would I hear a difference if I go with your Black Gate/RTX Mod?
On the Amplifier boards ( the circuit board that is next to the heat sink outputs) there is 1 - 220uf 50V, 1 - 47uf 16V, and 1 - 47uf 50V on each of the two circuit boards. ( there is an output board/heat sink on each side of the receiver) I am considering redoing these caps as well.Do you think it is wise to recap these caps? If so, what caps would you suggest? I don't want to waste money but am willing to spend it if it will make a difference.
These parts do not seem to be available from Mouser or Digikey - what's up?
Bear in mind I am trying to rid the receiver of the "buzz" and would hope to get some sonic improvement as a result of the effort. However, I do not want to ruin the voicing of the receiver and the original sound. Some people like to mod away and think it is great if it does not go up in smoke!
Bru
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Nichicon KG gold, at Percy Audio for $9.95 each. I'd bypass them with 100uF 50 Black Gates, and .1uF RTX's at a minimum, but I'm crazy that way. The Black Gates may add a little better responce, and the RTX's ought to filter out more of the grunge the AC brought in with it than the FG's alone.
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Hi Lou,
Could you please tell me how to do the bypass with the Black Gates and the RTX?I am new to this and at this point all I can do is replicate what Marantz did with a new cap. I am very experienced in soldering. However I do not know much about electronic theory.
Bru
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Hi Bru,
Once the unit has been unplugged and allowed time enough to fully discharge the PS caps, which should be checked with a meter, you can move onto the mods. The Nichicons and Black Gates are polarized, as are the factory caps. If you do not observe the polarity the caps will blow up. The RTX's are not polarized, so there is no right or wrong way to hook them up.Bypassing means that you run one cap in parallel to another. So, with the Black Gates, the + of the Black Gate goes to the + of the Nichicon, and the – of the Black Gate goes to the – of the Nichicon. You can solder the Black Gates to the board, or use ring lugs to connect them to the posts on the Nichicons, or connect them to any number of places as space allows, providing they are parallel, and properly polarized. The RTX’s similarly ought to be connected across the +/- of the Nichicon caps, but polarity is not an issue as foil caps do not have polarity.
Now remember that the + of the one Black Gate goes to the + of the one Nichicon and that the - of the same Black Gate goes to the - of the same Nichicon. You are in no way connecting between Nichicons, only between the +/- terminals of one Nichicon with one Black Gate, and one RTX. If this is in any way less than clear, let me know.
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