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In Reply to: It's an adjustable, tubular posted by kavakidd on November 11, 2004 at 12:47:54:
I might give this a try as my listening room's got wood floors suspended over a crawlspace. Figure a bit o' support under the monitors and sub might be a good thing (perhaps the amp and rack as well, though they've got isolation thingies associated with them).
Follow Ups:
How do you secure the jacking posts to the ground? Do you just tighten them enough to be snug or is there more to it?
If it's "ground" you're talking about, you'll need some additional support underneath the jackpost.I have a dirt-floor crawlspace under the house, so what I did to provide a firm footing for the jackposts was to excavate at each jackpost location to create a flat, recessed spot in the dirt. I put down a layer of sand (the dirt is mostly clay), and then put a square concrete paver into the recess to act as a solid floor for the jackpost baseplate.
Works great.
or concrete?
"If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail".
The posts do not really need to be secured to the floor - just be sure you use the plate that comes with them to spread the load over sufficient area. You'll want to buy some 4x4s to spread the load over at least two joists, if not three - it really depends on your floor size/layout as well as how many posts you'll install.To spread the load over two joists in my old place, I used three 20" pieces of 4x4: two to span two joists each, spaced 16" apart perpendicular to and against the joists, and the third piece to span the other two pieces. I screwed the post plate to the third piece, and screwed the three pieces of 4x4 together to make setting up easier (I removed the screws holding the three pieces together after installing the post to make sure the screws weren't bearing any of the load).
It is important to jack the floor slowly - add a little more pressure each day (adjust by applying the same amount of torque to the shaft, not the same displacement), but don't adjust more than daily. Adjust even more slowly on older construction, or if you're trying to correct a sag versus merely stiffening.
If you're just stiffening, you don't need to apply a lot of pressure - you just need to keep adjusting slowly until the pressure remains constant, making sure not to actually displace the floor. If you're trying to do more than stiffen, get some expert advice/help.
You could really hurt yourself or the house doing this, so take care - err on the side of taking your time.
-Pete
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