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I have quite a few of these all-bakelite octal sockets. They're excellent, electrically speaking, and US-made in the '60s. The height of these sockets would be exactly right in my current project if I could mount them on top of a chassis plate. I'm thinking about using flanged screws or maybe large-head rivets (aluminum or stainless) to spread the load. I'm just wondering if anyone here has seen problems with this type of socket? The mounting ears are very thick at 0.140". Any general thoughts on their use or the best mounting method?
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I thought they were made for under chassis mounting. I used them, or similar to replace the signal and output tube sockets in an amp I built using a repurposed chassis. The thickness of the raised center was enough to be flush with the chassis top plate giving it IMO at that time a cleaner look. I used wider pan head SS screws along the thoughts you have, I think #8, with flat & lock washers below deck careful not to over tighten.
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The dimensions on these are something of a problem. There's only about 0.090" between the top of the mounting ears and the top of the socket. The head of a pan head phillips is typically 0.097" thick. This means that, even if the socket is mounted on top of the chassis with nothing adding to the thickness of the ears, the tube bases will rest on the top of the screws, not the socket.
For bottom mounting, only a flat head screw flush with the chassis would work. The problem here has to do with the spacing between the mounting holes and the socket cutout. A typical #6 flat head is about 0.26" diameter. When I look at this on paper, countersinking the hole to that size almost breaks out into the socket cutout. It's too close to actually machine it.
The only solution I see (other than rivets) is the use of thinner screws and top mounting. The flanged button head screws would work, they're 0.073" thick, but they're also much more expensive than anything else. In fact, the cost to use a pair of these is more than twice what I paid for the sockets themselves. Guess I'll just have to bite the bullet until I come up with a better way to use these.
Buy Chinese. Bury freedom.
Some applications require the lowest possible leakage resistance between pins, but I doubt you are venturing in to that domain.
If using for output stage valves, then orientation of the sockets to allow the best direction for thermal radiation of the hotter side of the anode away from nearby objects and especially nearby anodes is worth a review before drilling.
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