Audio Asylum Thread Printer
Get a view of an entire thread on one page
|For Sale Ads|
I have 30.1s and I know Harbeth says just buy good wire but don't overspend.... but what's sounding good with your Harbeths?
Edits: 06/25/17Follow Ups:
There is not many people I would trust or take there word for it, but for some reason i am inclined to believe most of what Duster has to say,I cant even say why or why not, Just a feeling.
Just like everything in our audio Hobby, its mostly subjective!
nothing wrong with debate
You guys are too much! This thread now has 100 posts and all I can say is Why? This issue has been hashed out so many times that truly there is nothing more to be said. Nobody is going to change his mind based on some well-reasoned argument from one side or the other. For those who don't hear differences (or even significant differences) between cheap wires and superior sounding, expensive wires, I say good for you. You just saved a lot of money. But don't try to foist your views on those of us who do hear major differences and find them musically significant.
That's assuming that the mind in question is actually human ;-)
Apparently 'wasted" by those who find no value in such. Go figure.
Perhaps they should focus their efforts on areas that I find of no interest like toenail clippers. :)
one's power output at clipping?
for answering that question in the measurements section for amplifier reviews.
You'll find those in the review footer.
"Suddenly, I'm not half the man I used to be. 'Cause now I'm an amputee" J. Lennon
Yes, and one could have one of these ... ;-)
My foot wasn't made in Japan. Neither was my other one.
and only $9.96 shipping!
Double blind studies using them? ;)
Hey, that's nothing, check out this thread on AudiogoN, approaching 650 and going strong!
Congratulations are in order.
Anti-Cables. Reasonable as well.
"Man is the only animal that blushes - or needs to" Mark Twain
I paid about four grand for the special editions, I don't know what the hype is about.
Did I win?
I have these very heavy stands for them too, 4 post sound anchor stands, you'll have to drive to pick them up.
bring your vape pen. :)
I think I am joking, I think :)
they lay amongst the dirty laundry in my bedroom.
what do you think I could get for them?
Do they come from a smoke-free home? :-)
What have you been using to drive them?
I've heard them sound pretty good, but only with more power than one would think would be required.
What kind of wire is inside Harbeth speakers ? I think I read somewhere that their signature up rated versions use instead of regular zip cord -lo and behold an "OFC zip cord"
I did mention this below. But again, people seem to ignore the fact that inside that speaker each driver has about 60 feet of cheap commercial grade 28 gauge wire inside side them. So your $1000 speaker cable is terminating into about $10 and 120 feet of copper spooled wire.
"...inside that speaker each driver has about 60 feet of cheap commercial grade 28 gauge wire inside side them."
To be fair that depends on the speaker manufacturer.
I originally wired my own speakers (GR Research LS-9 hybrid cone/planar array) all the way from the individual speaker terminals to the amplifiers with a solid-core wire in a plastic sheath. This was not "el cheapo" wire, but to me (and a couple of audio buddies) the sound had a sort of "whang" quality.
I replaced this wire with a stranded Marigo wire with a cotton (?) sheath and my system sounded much, much better. Then I tried to make the system look better by running the wire through a black graphite fiber tube. Bad idea: the magic was gone and was not restored until I removed the sheath.
The wire "shouldn't" have made a difference, but to my ears (and the ears of several others) it did.
Or are you?
It's a coil of copper wire around a magnet. How does your traditional speaker work?
Let me find the article I wrote about 36 years ago. I'll post it when I have time.
In the meantime, it might be copper, or it might be aluminum. In either case, it's purpose is quite different than the cable which delivers the signal to the motor.
The point I AM trying to bring out is a system is a sum of ALL it's parts. We don't want to believe it but some of those parts are very inexpensive and not interchangeable.
Like the hundreds of resistors, SMDs, transistors, capacitors, solder joints and ribbon connectors in the signal path. Each one having the potential of causing more effect than any cable.
Point being cables are important. But as with any thing in audio matching is everything.
How the network formed between the amplifier and speaker crossover might be affected by the higher values of L and C you find in "ordinary" wire?
My speakers are especially sensitive to both.
Personally, I would not be interested in speakers so sensitive to L and C. But it's your money.
"A fool and his money are soon parted." --- Thomas Tusser
with my sensitivity, not the speakers. Easy to drive loads like Magneplanars benefit from better cabling than zip too in my experience.
So long as you don't care...
You would need to experience such system to have a well formed opinion especially with your music interests and choices.
Sadly I'm parting out similar setup (VTL MB750 , Soundlab M1 , ARC CD8 ARC REF 3) which was wired with Kubala Sosna cables. The excess of it is kind of ridicules but if I were in different point in my life than why the heck not?
Oh I'm sure E-stat can get very fine sound from his system, but he needs to do a lot of tweaking, some of it quite expensive, to get it to do what he wants. I don't have to do that.
The point is, one can get very fine sound with speakers are not very picky about what amplifier drives them or the types and cost of the cables used. Why make trouble for myself? But if you want to worry about such things, go right ahead.
"A fool and his money are soon parted." --- Thomas Tusser
Actually ,the system doesn't need any special tweaking to sound convincing. I think any decent speaker,competently designed like Harbeth, Paradigm etc will do fine without magic wires and fuses. But you know how it is -better is an enemy of good. I had this $4k piece of Kubala Sosna speaker wire. The price is not shocking anymore . I looked and looked at those thick stranded copper conductors looking exactly like monster car audio cables and thought to myself that the price is a nonsense. Did they make a difference?, sure they did, quite significant. Do I miss them? Not really, I got used to the sound of more mundane cables after a day or two. Now, had I have the luxury to keep the cables because $4k expense would be my weekly lunch budget would I keep them? Absolutely, no question about it.
Similarly, I would not be happy with a set of small boxes for the music system, either. :)
To each his own.
Some have mentioned Roger Russell, retired from McIntosh, on speaker wires. Personally, I find large wire a little difficult to work so I have no desire to find 10 gauge cables. So I stick with 12 gauge wire, which is not quite as stiff to work with. It is large enough for my 4 ohm main speakers since the cables are only about 25 feet long. For TV in the family room, I use a few feet of 16 gauge wire for the 4 ohm speakers.
I have linked to Roger Russell's actual article on Speaker Wire, which seems to have been updated and lengthened since I last looked at it. I have linked specifically to the wire table showing recommended maximum lengths of different gauges of speaker wire for speakers of different impedances. However, the entire article is interesting.
"A fool and his money are soon parted." --- Thomas Tusser
Get wires that mitigate the boxy sound inherent with these boxy speakers.
it doesn't sound as much like a 'monkey coffin'.
I use Audioquest slate with my Harbeth P3ESR's. I have used Audioquest with many other speaker brands and find it very neutral!
I don't own Harbeths, so my opinion might not be valid. ;)
I use Belden 12 gauge twisted pair gray jacketed, and it's fine. It might not even be oxygen-free. Sorry, I don't remember the product number, but it's probably about $1 - $2 a foot these days. It was 50 cents a foot when I bought it. Call Belden, they'll know what you're asking about.
I have used Crimson Cable ICs (from Crimson Electronics) and speaker cables on 4 amps, 2 preamps and 3 sets of speakers (none of them Harbeth, but one is an LS3/5A). They are the most transparent cables I have found in all my searches. They would be a good fit for Harbeth.
Ok, I give up. I have owned Harbeths for over 20 years, starting with little tiny original P3s, the original Compact 7s, K6s, unheard of in the US, amd original M30s. I have the 7s, 6s and 30s still. I give you this history only because you asked for the experience of harbeth owners.
I have tried Kimber 8tc, which is fine, Kimber 8 and 4 vs, which somehow, subjectively seemed a little less incisive than the 8tc. MIT something years ago, which i didnt like, nordost blue heaven, which seemed bright and thin, different Audioquests, which all seem to work ok, Mogami 3082, which I really think got out of the way, amd currently use a bluejeans cable made from a 10 gauge belden cable. The bluejeans cable is used by a lot of us Harbeth oldtimers, amd I recommend you call them and talk about your needs. Inexpensive, basic, all you need. The only ones I purchased were Kimbers, Audioquests, Mogami, amd bluejeans. The MIT and nordost were trials.
We ALL want to hear what reinforces our personal beliefs.
Depends on one's taste in Kool Aid too :-).
From an Engineering standpoint 10 gauge wire is ALL that is required in a residential setup.
Resistance being the Only significant (Impacts the signal) attribute on a POWER (speaker) wire.
Regardless.. fill yer boots.
Resistance being the Only significant (Impacts the signal) attribute on a POWER (speaker) wire.
Roger Russell says!
We don't need no steenkin' low dielectric constant. :)
Resistance tends to have the biggest wiggle room when it comes to wire. 16 AWG zip cord when used as speaker wire can be run at relatively long distance within a typical home audio listening room based on resistive loss, but even the most dedicated believers that wire makes no difference for the better may go ahead and use larger AWG zip cord, perhaps because it looks better to the eye, rather than the ear.
If there is any religious analogy towards the topic, it's not the cable advocates who are mislead, it's the cable naysayers who are transfixed by their hardened beliefs against matters they are simply not aware of, and refuse to explore. I'm pleased to know that there's enough anecdotal evidence found over the years that indicate there are open-minded listeners who breakout of their disbelief in cables as tools for better audio and give the topic a try.
It's all good on my end of the cable topic. It's their loss, not mine.
For folks who find that "wire is wire", I say move along, there's nothing here for you.
Here's the kind of comment that I've never read before:
"Yeah, I tried Valhalla in my system over the weekend and I can't tell any different between that and zip cord"
So, E-Stat, are you the self appointed arbiter of who should stay in this thread and who should not?
I was under the impression that this kind of attitude was only acceptable in the Cables Asylum.
It appears that a number of us are mildly sceptical of many of the claims made by a few Inmates who appear to be fanatical about wires and cables. Pardon us if we don't blindly follow anybody else's religion without questioning some of the dogma.
I don't understand those who devote considerable time discusssing that which they think is unimportant.to them.
where a 'high end' speaker manufacturer's recommendation (in this case Harbeth's advice of "good wire but don't overspend") for speaker cables may be considered blasphemy!
Go back to your hole please and don't pollute here with your BS.
You should read all posts within a thread before an accusing statement like that is made. If a $1.68 per foot speaker cable is too exotic to recommend, then even a lower bar has been set by some regarding Harbeth's advice of "good wire but don't overspend" for speaker cables. I've paid more for a haircut than an 8 foot pair priced at $26.88.
See link to my post within this thread:
Harbeth's advice on speaker cable is a reasonable position. I did not recommend 'lamp cord'. OFC hi-end power tool cord maybe. :-)
Some even went so far as to suggest that agreeing with Harbeth's recommendation bordered on 'cable nay-saying' and those people should not be posting on this thread. =:-0
I recommended CANARE Star Quad Pretty much the same as you posted and in line with Harbeth's recommendation.
...."naysayers" will be deleted on "the" cable asylum.
for recommending a $75 power cable!
OK, with a fair disclosure that I am NOT necessarily;y a 'cable guy'. :-)
I would say there's a decent gray area between "cable advocates" and "cable naysayers."
I'm actually not sure what a "cable naysayer" is. :) Any objectivist worth his salt would not disagree that cables could have audible effects based on source impedance, load impedance, cable LCR and parasitic characteristics, etc, etc. However, any "cable advocate" that thinks there's some type of magic at work here is deluded.
The most irritating thing involved in the cable topic is the condescending attitude directed at "cable naysayers" by "cable advocates." :) "Open-minded" and "closed-minded" are polarizing labels that most audiophiles don't deserve to have applied to them.
Should fuses be considered wire or components?
Is wire not a component?
Oh YEAH !! seems everyone ignores the fact that inside your speaker is about 60-100 feet of guess what - 22-28 gauge commercial grade copper wire. So you have a $1000 speaker wire terminating on about ten bucks of copper - hum?
There's a difference between carrier components and working components. The speaker cable is a necessary evil. It shouldn't contribute anything to the task at hand and must simply do as little damage as possible as we move the speaker away from the amplifier.
The wire in a driver forms an electrical component and it does work. We don't expect to find an unscathed signal at the other end of it; we expect to find ground (usually). As such, it is chosen for completely different properties and it's already factored into the potential performance of the speaker.
What you can complain about is the few feet of hook-up wire in the speaker, though.
If so, so what?
Manufacturers of high quality loudspeaker drivers care very much about the characteristics of the wire they use to wind their voice coils, e.g. the electrical parameters of the wire and its insulation, the geometry of the wire, how it's wound on the former, etc.
The purpose of the voice coil wire is to produce a magnetic field. The wire going from the amp to the loudspeaker terminals serves a different purpose, so there's no basis for comparing their performance.
... "The wire going from the amp to the loudspeaker terminals serves a different purpose, so there's no basis for comparing their performance."
Actually, there is basis for performance comparisonss The purpose of the "wires" in both examples you cite is to conduct an electrical current. Physical configurations of conductors may be arranged to take advantage of the consequences of a "flowing" electrical current. In the case of a voice coil, low loss and low mass are also usually considered important. In the case of audiophile grade speaker cables, visual impressiveness is typically as important as electrical properties if not more so. ;-)
To confuse the issue with facts for this segment of the audience. :)
And what about the cheap stuff going from your $3K PL filter to the box? And that noisy awful stuff going from the box to the pole?
Where does it end?
One hypothesis is that the further you get away from the component's power supply, the less it matters. Which kind of makes sense considering that home electrical wiring is a poor conductor of RF. And it's not like there are "dirty" electrons traveling all the way from the power plant to your system. AC electrical circuits are not pipes.
My favorite is someone using a $500 power cord and extolling the sound signatures, when 8 feet above their head is a crappy splice box making that house line connection with a three cent partially oxidized wire nut.
Or better yet the outlets power line is connected simply by an old style 1/8th inch wide spring clip. But that magic rope IS working!
I believe cables/interconnects can and do have an effect. But like the true back bone of audio it's been hoisted up to a mystical almost religious level. Marketing level!!!
There are cheap cables and high quality cables. But there is a point ($$) where some of us start to think this is starting to sound like bull dinky. So count me in on not being as much a naysayer but skeptical snake oil purchaser.
Cables/interconnects are part of the whole system. Not the magical money rope that sits between boxes. If using a $1000 speaker wire is the deal breaker on your stereo, then you've got bigger issues with your setup than wire.
I'm actually not sure what a "cable naysayer" is. :)
Here are conclusions by the High Priest himself , Roger Russell:
"We have been told by advertising that the exotic speaker wires offer fabulous advantages over ordinary lamp cord. It would seem reasonable that using this same wire for lamps would also enhance their performance. In the same vein as wire literature, you can have your lamp reproduce light with the full spectrum color fidelity of natural daylight, finally allowing you see light the way it should be seen and bring out the natural performance of your lamp. It could offer greater warmth, detail, brilliance, definition and speed by providing wider bandwidth and reduced skin effect. It can provide a distortion free illumination that reduces eye strain, resulting in clearer vision and optimal color perception. "
It's a ridiculous analogy, since it makes no sense. Equivocation of a light bulb vs. a high-performance audio system is more than absurd; it's pathetic if claimed to be insightful.
He was being sarcastic not literal.
most folks don't preference their sarcastic comments with the word "actually".
You clearly don't recognize a complete tongue-in-cheek comment. Hook, line, and sinker! :)
As trolls go, you're a pretty funny one.
I suggest AudioQuest FLX 14/4 as good wire to use with your Harbeth 30.1s. I'm sure the price to performance ratio fits Harbeth's criteria:
Here's the proper wiring schemes:
especially on the 'don't overspend' part.
Short or long run, high power sand amp or moderate powered tube amp?
Those factors might be at play?
Large or small room, loud or soft listening levels?
Those factors might also be at play?
I'd try commercial speaker cables of some pedigree, albeit 'moderately priced with good wire' and also maybe try DIY with, again, decent wire (Canare Star-Quad?) just to see if I could tell the difference. :-)
In truth, it's a crap shoot and Harbeth is likely 100% right.
> In truth, it's a crap shoot and Harbeth is likely 100% right.
I don't think it's a crap shoot if you remember one thing: Wire is basically just wire. Select a good oxygen free copper heavy gauge stranded wire and you should be perfectly satisfied. This is the wire that I use with my Thiel CS3.7 speakers and I couldn't be happier:
KnuKonceptz Kord Ultra Flex Blue OFC 10 Gauge Speaker Wire
I have been at this hobby for many years and can tell you that the cheap wire recommended here is inferior. I have several times tried to cut corners with cheap wire like this. You will not realize the potential of your system if you use it. There is a huge difference when you move up the wire ladder. The fat zip cord mentioned here is on the bottom rung.
Try any middle of the line commercial wire and you will immediately hear the improvement. I have never heard Harbeth but based upon experience with 2 way speakers my recommendation would be Harmonic Technology Pro 10 speaker cable. It has excellent clarity, robust bass and very well balanced.
...wire and cables do make a difference, although there are diminishing returns, like with all things audio.
Cheap wire is not going to make your music sound it's best.
For me wire is the last component I try after my system is chosen. The differences are usually not dramatic but they can't be ignored.
There is decent wire made by good companies (AudioQuest, Cardas, Straight Wire, Nordost and many others) and better wire as you move up the price scale.
However, for best results, try some different brands and models in your system to hear what they do.
Try putting in a new cable, listen for a night and then switch back. Quick A/B testing does not often work at this level.
They do not all sound the same and may add the synergy you are looking for to your system.
Folks who claim that wire is basically just wire with no inherent qualities or differences either have closed minds with no experience of high-performance cables, or don't recognize improved listening cues when evaluating various cables. It's pointless to argue with them, since unless they take the plunge and explore such things, it tends to be a closed-ended debate without resolve.
Those who say one particular wire configuration is garbage, or that another design is uniformly excellent (without taking the amplifier/cable/loudspeaker into consideration as a SYSTEM) are equally close minded.
"Folks who claim that wire is basically just wire with no inherent qualities or differences "
For example? Or, are you just making that up?
Ah, I see.
In John's defense, I'd only say that he did say "oxygen-free heavy gauge stranded wire".
Seriously, some of you guys obsess over non-issues.
It's only a non-issue if it's not important to any given listener.
Caring about wire is no different than paying attention to any other parts within an audio system. Parts and circuits within an audio component, such as I/O jacks, wiring, caps, coils, resistors, chips, etc.
Otherwise, debating about the topic is just a battle of wills, since those who seek tend to find, while others believe that ignorance is somehow bliss.
"Parts and circuits within an audio component, such as I/O jacks, wiring, caps, coils, resistors, chips, etc."
You'll get no argument from me there. But when it comes to speaker cables, once you've got the oxygen-free, twisted pair heavy gauge and high quality connections covered, you're good to go.
Considering your endless tweaking/experimenting and over 12,600 posts about it I really wonder if you ever find time to sit down and listen to music without thinking "Damn, wonder if I could get more 'accuracy' if that carbon fiber outlet cover was red."
Hey, to each his own. But IMO you sure as hell are obsessive :-)
His obsessiveness was acceptable in the Cable Forum, but outside of that venue not so much!
One man's obsessive interest is another man's specialized field of interest. It's only considered obsessive when others object to a specialized field of interest that is considered objectionable for some reason.
In the case of this particular forum, I would rather seek insight from those in Speaker Asylum who actually know what they are referring to based on a specialized field of interest in loudspeakers, rather than from slackers who would rather post uninformed opinions based on supposition or self-aggrandizing pretenses. It's pretty easy to get away with being a dick in Audio Asylum.
I don't require permission or approval to pursue my interest in cables and tweaks as my specialized fields of interest, and know that I've been appreciated over the years for what I've been willing to explore and share in Cable Asylum and Tweakers' Asylum. The few times I've stepped-out on a limb in other forums with hostile naysayers only fuels my interest to gain more insight into the topic rather than be discouraged by disparaging words.
The last time I checked, anyone posting here was already, by definition, nuts and in the asylum. :)
We're all obsessive here. Squeeze the wheeze! Honk, honk!
Blah, blah, blah, blah, blah ..........
Same old shit, different Asylum.
And just about everywhere else, or so it seems. ;-)
Dickishness is in fashion!
blind test cables.... and save money...
or believe magazines and get robbed
The, "If you can't hear the difference in cables" arguments...
We've heard them before.
"You've never heard really good cables." Of course we haven't!
"Your system is not 'resolving' enough." Of course it's not!
"You're must not be a 'sophisticated listener'." At my age it's a wonder I can hear at all!
"Cables don't make near as much difference as the high-end cable manufactures would like you to believe they do."
But it's probably the truth.
Recall a number of years ago visiting with a 'name brand' speaker manufacturer who designed and sold very expensive speakers. Couldn't help but notice the outrageously expensive cables he used to demo his speakers at shows. His view? If he didn't use 'mega-buck' speaker cables at shows, a fair percentage of audiophiles visiting his room would not take his speakers seriously.
"At this price point, they expect speakers to be demoed with expensive, high end cables, whether they are worth it or not and the cable companies lets me use the for free for as long as I want."
Didn't dare ask him what he used at home. :-)
In my experience, the smaller the signal the more important the cable.
Tonearm cable? Yep, very sensitive to cables.
Speaker cable? Not so much, IMNSHO. OK, not lamp cord. Power tool cord, maybe? :-)
But seriously, for short runs (1-4 meter?), I'd be happy with home brew Canare Star Quad (4S11) at less that $1 a foot. And if a mega-buck cable sounds a lot 'different', it's likely because it's doing something to the signal that is NOT necessarily good!
> His view? If he didn't use 'mega-buck' speaker cables at shows, a fair percentage of audiophiles visiting his room would not take his speakers seriously.
I agree wholeheartedly with him. If I were demonstrating and selling speakers I'd use very expensive speaker cable, but I only listen to speakers. Therefore, I'm only concerned about the quality of my wire. That's why I use high-quality wire.
I had a friend bring over some Cardas speaker wire that was the size of a garden hose and we connected it to my speakers. He felt that my speakers were borderline unlistenable with my inexpensive wire but became quite listenable with his expensive Cardas wire. I couldn't hear the difference. I guess I'm lucky that way. ;-)
in high school who married the first date he had. She was 300 lb's but he couldn't be happier. Saved him a lot of time looking around.
Sorry I left that one out.
The major difference is that I've tried the others and I settled on my inexpensive speaker cable after hearing the expensive stuff in my own system. Therefore, I made an informed choice based on personal experience.
Unfortunately this is the kind of question for which you will not get a really satisfactory answer.
For a start you have given us no idea of the rest of your system, the kind of music that you like, your basic tastes in sound or your budget. What sounds good with Harbeths will also depend upon subjective taste and someone else's subjective taste may not be yours.
Moreover no one out there has tried a pair of Harbeths with every brand and type of cable. All they can know is what they have tried which , to be frank, will generally be limited to a single cable or, at best two types. So you will only get the best of their experience which is likely to be limited. Hence, so far in this thread, you have three responses actually recommending cables with three completely different recommendations. If you get ten responses then you will most likely get ten different recommendations, none of which may actually suit you or your circumstances.
The only thing you can do is try to get some cables on approval and make up your own mind.
Nobody who answered has the same system as each other or the guy asking, nor the same room/ears/preferences. Jeez, as if speakers and wire act independent from the rest of the system.
from a local dealer, he was using the Nordost Valhalla at first and then he switched to Cardas Clear Beyond. In comparison, the Cardas projected a full-bodied sound versus the Valhalla. But the Valhalla sound was clear, with ethereal mids and highs but with a robust low end.
If I could afford it I would go with Cardas for half the price of Valhalla as it seems to possess the well-balanced sound.
If a thing's worth doing, it's worth doing well
Here is some very good speaker wire. I use it with my Thiel CS3.7 speakers. It's 10-gauge and very flexible oxygen free copper. I terminated mine with gold banana plugs.
KnuKonceptz Kord Speaker Wire Ultra Flex Blue OFC 10 Gauge Cable
Nakamichi 24K Gold Plated Speaker Banana Plugs
Fantastic suggestion. I'm going to give this stuff a try.
Well, if you don't like it, you haven't wasted much money. ;-)
I really like this wire a lot. I also like the counterfeit Nakamichi banana plugs because the springy insert is firmly attached to the shaft unlike some banana plugs in which it's just clipped on and loose.
I recommend soldering the wire to the banana plugs but you don't have to if you don't want to. They have screws to attach the wire if you want to do it that way. I think solder provides a better connection, though.
I hope you enjoy this wire as much as I do.
My sister is currently using MIT MH 750 Shotgun the grey one's w/o the terminal boxes. She told me it's better than her Straightwire Rhapsody 2 speaker wires. Her Harbeth is the SHL5 super plus .
I always enjoy the contrast in these discussions, because I also have unwavering opinions about the required functions of speaker wire.
I will add the curiously overlooked , but obvious point, that hearing is a process that happens in the brain, yet the brain lacks any kind of self awareness , so one is never aware of errors in function. A double blind test was invented to solve the problem of suggestion verses illusion in hearing. In eyesight, people are aware of optical illusions, but also know the images are never seen as incomplete of a puzzle
Everyone knows about fooling wine experts with old bottles. You can play me as cheap, but before I would spend money against my speaker manufacturers instructions, I would invest some time learning how hearing works, and the low importance of sonic accuracy over directional acuity.
However, to be fair, the same brain function suggestibility that led me to reject the concept of hot rod wire as needless, also proves that if you think your thousand dollar wire sounds better, it really does. Absolutely.
Post a Message!
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors: