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I have a set of Sonus Faber Minuetto speakers and have blown the woofers on them. I can't find any Sonus replacements. Has anyone any advice on suitable replacements for them?
I would suggest to contact SF directly at their website.
They use(d) to be quite co-operative: years ago I had some problems in having my (previously owned) Electa Amator I properly fixed onto their stands and they sent me (free of any charges - in fact I am 200 miles away from them) two factory-machined steel plates with the proper holes, plus fixing screws and bushes and flocked fabric as needed.
Good luck: a SF is for life.
I know how it feels when you blow up an oldie but a goodie...
****WHATEVER YOU DO HERE... make sure you check your amp for DC output. Although many amps have DC protection (or are tube amps with output transformers, which cannot pass DC) some amps do not. If the coils burned up due to output transistors failing and putting bus voltage to the drivers, the NEXT speakers will burn up just as fast as the first ones.
With a DC Voltmeter or "multimeter" set to DCV, check for DC output on the amplifier speaker terminals. If it's millivolts or less you're okay. If it reads in the tens of volts, you have a bad amp.****
So back to the "find the old driver game".
I checked the Tymphany / Vifa archives.
Turned up nada. I have a hardcopy Vifa catalogue in my "box of old catalogues" at home - I will check if that model is in there. But I think the "MW-" (midwoofer) driver predates even the mid 80's catalogue I have at home. If it's not even in the archives, it's probably late seventies early 80's vintage - which is getting pretty old these days. (30+ years! if you can believe that!!).
If you're lucky, there is a modern variant that simply has a different name. If I can find the "MW-" driver in a catalogue, I can compare it's specs to modern 17cm variants and see if it matches. It's unlikely but possible.
Watch out for recommendations of "it will fit in that hole" and "the frequency response graphs look kinda close". Voice coil inductance, inductance rise, and certain T/S parameters are also critical to matching what the crossover is doing inside that speaker. Impedance curves are elusive while newbies tend to focus only on frequency response. With passive crossovers, impedance (interacting with crossover reactive components) DETERMINES frequency response! There is way to do crossover mods to integrate a new driver, but this can be a whole new crossover and takes a special skill set to do. And you have to have a love for DIY, or "pain" as some put it.
In any case, if you go with the "fill the hole" method you will likely end up with new voicing (at best) or worse a botched up tonal balance.
Another possible option is reconing. Those are nice looking speakers with what seems like well built cabinets. If they sound great and you are partial to them, a re-cone might be an option.
I will check old catalogues and get back to you.
Thanks for all the info. A lot to think about. Is reconing a viable option? Is the sound good after this?
Reconing or rewinding a new voice coil is definitely worth considering as a classic speaker loses its value when non original components are substituted. You may have to spend a few bucks and ship your drivers to a place far and away, but when you're done, you'll have a speaker that is as close to new specification as is physically possible provided the rebuilder is conscientious, qualified, and diligent. A quick search online revealed this company:
(Ruegsegger Audio in Wald Germany)
You may experience a language barrier - maybe not. Communication via email can go a long way to resolving that problem.
The speaker driver you have appears to be on their rebuild list (always a good sign). Hope that helps.
Who made the woofer and what model is it?. If no brand or model
on the frames, We need pictures, front and rear to try to identify
Its made by 'Vifa' in Denmark. Model - MW-170-SF
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