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Can I get away with joining/soldering a NEW CAP to the old one's leads which are soldered to the board? It's almost impossible to get at the joins on the board, whereas the leads are RIGHT THERE.
Doing so will also allow me to better tie down the cap, which is considerably bigger than the old one.
This shortcut also lets me avoid having to remove the whole crossover -- which means desoldering driver connections and otherwise disassembling the speaker (e.g., the very tight, solid cabinet, which seems like an invitation for vibration trouble).
Any help MUCH appreciated.
Follow Ups:
Sure, just cut them 1/4" or so close to the board and then solder the new cap to the stubs. One word of caution though, when you heat the stub you'll likely melt the solder on the back side of the board and the wire stub may pull out of the hole. You might avoid this potential problem by heat sinking the stub close to the board using a clip-on heat sink available from Radio Shack
Good luck!
Do Not & should Never snip close before soldering; you can always snip excess After soldering. The longer the lead the more to fold over for a secure crimp connection before soldering, the crimped loop wil also prevent leads from moving about whilst attempting to solder. Longer leads also helps avoid de-soldering on back side of board. Otherwise, an electrical conection is a connection & the crossover will not care how long or short the leads are within this context.
> You might avoid this potential problem by heat sinking the stub close to the board using a clip-on heat sink available from Radio Shack
A pair of pliers with a rubber band on the handles, forceps, etc. will all work fine.
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