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Hi All,
Basically, I picked up a pair of the silver/aluminium one's a few weeks back at a local thrift store and I was so extremely over-zealous in modding it (right away) that I took it all apart without either first listening to them, or taking out digital pictures of the "before" image (like I always do, before any of my mod's).
So anyways, I've replaced the cheap spring clip connectors with better binding posts, and now when I'm trying to replace the 4.7uF capacitors with similar value ones that I purchased locally, I do not remember how/where to connect the two leads of the capacitor. To make matters worse, the new capacitor that I've purchased seems to indicate that it's bi-polar, yet there is one lead that is shorter than the other...so that's confusing me big-time as well (not sure whether one lead is positive and the other negative....or whether it does not matter, since the package says that it's bi-polar)
I searched this forum (and googled the entire WWW) but couldn't find very good pictures of the orginal crossover for these speakers, but the following URL does provide a schematic...but I'm not sure how to interpret it...and maybe it's a bit incorrect).
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread/t-107075.html
Attached is a pic of the crossover with the new capacitor in place - or at least how I think it should be connected...note, not soldered yet since I'm waiting for confirmation (from you very knowledgeable folks) of whether or not my assumption or interpretation of the schematic is correct or not).
Another thing I need to know is whether or not it's important to glue down everything i.e. wires, capacitor etc. to the plastic/wood portion, and if yes, then what is the reason for that ?
Thanks for now,
CR
Follow Ups:
I have some of those that all I did was replace the stock electrolytic cap with a poly cap of the same value. Before the mod, the tweeter sounded dull & lifeless. Afterwards, it sounded really clear and alot more detailed. If you do nothing else, I recommend you put in a good poly film cap.
I have done a few crossover mods, but when sticking to a simple first-order design, I have not been able to adequately tame the woofer regardless of the selected point.
I will coat it when I play with them next, but am ultimately planning on replacing the drivers with those of higher quality.
I could post the most successful of my mods if you are interested.
..or how I think it should have been represented in the DIY Audio link provided in my original/earlier post.
That schematic looks correct to me, based on the couple pairs of Minimus 7s I've modded. As I recall, the woofer is run full range with no crossover rolloff, and the tweeter has a 2 component high pass filter (cap and inductor).
Edits: 01/13/09
...that you should connect one lead from the inductor (coil) to the positive input (red binding post). The other should be connected to the solder tab on the woofer that's marked as positive. One lead from the NON- polarized capacitor should also be connected to the positive input (red binding post) and the other lead connected to the positive terminal of the tweeter. Connect two wires to the black (negative) binding post. Connect one to the woofer negative tab and one to the tweeter's negative tab.
....it seems as though you might have got something wrong somewhere...nevertheless, appreciate your help indeed.
I believe the following may be correct...and is in line with attached pic.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Note : in attached pic, red input terminal on the left, black, right.
Inductor connects from black input to the solder post, far left, top.
Capacitor goes from red input termnal to solder post, which is also tweeter blue lead connecting to the tweeter brown terminal, presumably (+), though I don't see it is marked so.
Other tweeter lead, black wire to tweeter white terminal, connects to black input terminal.
If you're sticking with the original filter, use a 4.7 uF metallized polypropylene cap.
Woofer connects across the input terminals, yellow wire (+) to red, and black wire (-) to black.
---------------------------------------
Later,
CR
...based on the the typical 2-way, 1st order electrical filter where the active elements are wired in series with their respective drivers..
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