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In Reply to: RE: EZ LOW COST audio tweak to try at home, for SETs and H.E. speakers posted by drlowmu on January 20, 2016 at 16:55:15
An inexpensive little experiment that one can learn from. I will be curious to hear from those that try it. Still, there is no way I will be putting bricks, on end, near my tubes.For those of us that build our own, using a less resonant chassis and higher quality transformers might be a more elegant solution (i.e. remove the root-cause of the resonance).
Some time ago Dennis and yourself advocated the use of a steel chassis, largely because it had the resonant characteristics required for accurate, lively reproduction. The results of this recent experiment appear to contradict that advice. Are you changing your views on what constitutes good reproduction, or have improvements been realised by changing the resonant characteristics of the chassis, or both?
Cheers,
91.
"Confusion of goals and perfection of means seems to characterise our age." Albert Einstein
Edits: 01/21/16Follow Ups:
Congratulations, you were the second person to comment with an open mind thus far.
No change on steel chassis. This is a throw-together chassis, with lovely 12 gauge welded corners sides, but a 14 gauge steel plate added as the top-plate, as I am re-sing the parts.
Steel also shields well.
I will likely go to 12 gauge steel, henceforth, on my future chassis designs. I have a local company laser cut to my spec, and bend / brake the chassis in their well equipped facility, and a local friend welds and die grinds the corners. Then, powder coating.
My power transformer is from a Dyna ST-70, and it is running at about 1/3 or so of its rated capability, about 70 mA. total, for both Type 45 channels. This stuff is so audible on ALTEC type systems, such as my 515Bs !!
Use felt where the bricks touch the chassis, or, better yet, wrap entire brick in felt, glued onto it. You run GPA drivers, you will hear the difference and want to KEEP the improvement me thinks !! Report back.
Jeff Medwin
Thanks Jeff. Your timing works well for me.
My previous chassis was laser-cut steel, welded corners, powder coat etc. Just put the calipers on it and it measures close to 13 gauge, but I reckon it is really 14 gauge. Seems pretty solid - much, much better than Hammonds etc. Well worth the extra cost for the quality and nice finish.
I am designing next amp chassis and have been wondering whether to use an evolved version of my previous chassis or try a wood frame with CNCed carbon fiber top and base plates. Each monoblock chassis must comfortably support about 20kg of transformers - no sag, no flex, no rattle. I think I will take your advice to use 12 gauge steel, possibly with a thicker steel (or carbon fiber) for the base.
I also like the clean, classic, almost lab-like look of folded steel.
Cheers,
91.
"Confusion of goals and perfection of means seems to characterise our age." Albert Einstein
Sounds very good.
My favorite powder coat, sorta hard to find, is Midnight Blue Wrinkled powder coat. YMMV. Have fun.
Jeff
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