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In Reply to: RE: I'm still experimenting with power supplies posted by E-Stat on April 18, 2017 at 13:40:34
Ordered the one pictured above for about $65.
Not too sure exactly how the two different outputs differ (OK, other than the connector) or if the USB socket is also 2.5A or is less(guessing less)?
Anyway, plenty of adapters on eBay so I'll figure out something.
That(Jay's Audio-LOL) was my first attempt at a linear power. Not sure about your unit, but mine was rated at 2.1A, I got constant low power warnings, and I believe that it did affect the sound quality.
I ended up getting another one for about $20 more that was was rated at 3A and works great.
The round plug marked 2.5A or the USB port (who knows its rating?)
Also, were you powering up the HDMI port for a display and running the WiFi transmitter on your Raspberry Pi when you saw the warning?
I've pretty much shut everything down and would really be surprised if I'm drawing anywhere close to the 2.5A limit of the wall wart that came with the Raspberry Pi.
Logic fail. There would be no way to see the warning if I had HDMI disabled. The amount of power the BT and WIFI require should be negligible. With the 3A LPS I can plug in a 4TB USB hard drive and watch 1080p movies on Kodi with no warnings.
while running PcP. Also no display or WiFi. Seems to last forever running continuously on a 24,000 mAh battery (couple days?) so I'm guessing I would be pulling 1 Amp at 5V?
Now I have a USB stick in one of the ports while trying out Moode. Sure sounds good!
So the low voltage warning is not part of the display I'm seeing while controlling the Raspberry Pi with an iPad? Makes sense that I'd never be aware of it then, even when running the Raspberry Pi from a cell phone charger.
But if I do start using the USB ports to power a hard drive? 2.5A/5V won't do it? Even if the hard drive has it OWN wall wart/power supply?
Still haven't decided how I'm going to use these things, at the end of the day.
Right now I'm trying to determine what player software and what configuration sounds best for ripped CDs and Hi Rez downloads. Pretty happy with PcP for streaming TIDAL and QOBUZ though. As good or better than my MacBook Air streaming to the USB DAC in my local DAC/Headphone amp.
Also like to free up ALL of the computers on my network from audio tasks (wife sees a computer on with no one in front of it, it's soon to be OFF!). Replacing them all with RaspberryPi's plugged into the local network.
The Raspberry Pi only shows a low voltage warning in the upper right hand corner(Lightning bolt or small patch of rainbow depending on the program you are using) on an HDMI connected device. I you have the HDMI disabled in the settings of your music player you will still get a display and any warnings(over heat or under voltage) until the program has finished booting.
Using a standard 2.5A wall wart I never got low power warnings, but the sound seemed terrible after hearing it with other power options.
The IFI worked fine and had great sound for about 3 days and then I started getting low power warning. Sent back.
The "Jay" Power supply gave me low power warnings right out of the starting gate.
No power warnings running from battery as long as the battery was at full charge, I didn't connect a hard drive, and used the 2.5A output. Didn't care for the sound when using the battery. Lower noise floor than the wall wart, but music seemed flat, lifeless, and a little harsh for some reason.
3A 5V Linear Power supply. No power warnings ever and low noise floor. Works with a USB hard drive connected, but the power supply gets very warm.
In every case the sound seemed better when I wasn't getting power warnings than when I was. Seems logical that the Raspberry PI and I2S DAC would perform better with full power than under power.
Do you think it's the I2S DAC requiring more power than say a Digi+ Pro I2S to S/PDIF converter.
for a 24,000 mAh battery to last 2-3 days while running continuosly, I can't be drawing even an amp at 5V.
Seems like the difference would be negligible. The Jay's Audio LPS and IFI both gave me voltage warnings even with no I2S device plugged it. I don't know what was up with the IFI, but I think the Jay's Audio was not really meant to be used with the RP3. That might explain why Audiophonics disconnected it. The Jay's audio version appears to be a clone
Were you using the round 2.1mm jack or the USB jack when you got the low voltage indication?
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