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In Reply to: Audiophile grade fuses? posted by rupertdacat on June 28, 2006 at 08:54:34:
Thought about it, but have not done it. I would need 6 per chassis for a total of 12. Some of the fuses I have seen advertised cost ca $25 to $30 each. Hence my hesitation. Also, IMO you would also need to install "audiophile grade" fuse holders. I think I have seen such for sale also. Which fuses do you have in mind and have you considered changing fuseholders as well?
Follow Ups:
Lew, just change the main fuses. You can change the other ones, but you'll get good benefits from just changing the main ones.
In my MA240s, I have two high-amperage fuses, one of each of the two AC lines that subserve one monoblock. But I also have 1.5A slo-blo fuses on the cathodes at each 6C33C (a total of 6 such fuses per monoblock). It never even occurred to me to upgrade the two fuses on the AC lines, but I have focussed on the fuses for each 6C33C, since the audio signal clearly flows thru these. I would think that would be a more critical area for upgrade. But the fuseholders are made of the same second-rate conductors as are the fuses themselves. It would seem foolish to spend big bucks on fuses and then stick them into those same old fuse holders, which are also part of the circuit. What I did do was to coat the ends of all fuses with Walker Audio silver paste, and I imagine I do hear an improvement. (I use the term "imagine" deliberately; everything seems smoother I think.)
Hello I have tried several fuses the Isocleans are the best ,one thing that makes this and your whole system for sure is the
Quicksilver contact enhancer.This by far is the best tweak for all the contacts,and the fuses just add to it .I have been in the Hifi arena for some 30+ years and I am skeptical on most things .
Try these 2 things as instructed and I promise you 100% improvement ,
on any system !
I am a Audiophile consumer , Quote-Paul J Letteri.
Lew, maybe you should ask Ralph, he's da man. I just replaced the main fuses near the IECs, and there was some improvement. Better fuse holders such as the Acme silver plated and optionally cryo'd ones (disclaimer: I sell 'em - sorry for the pitch) may help, too. I haven't tried any of the silver paste, which must be used very carefully, although good contact cleaners can help.
Does Acme make silver-plated fuse holders for those MDL or MDX (slo-blo, 1.25 inches) type fuses, like the ones that fuse each of my 6C33Cs? And what is the metal underlying the silver plate?
Hi Brian.Have you actually tried this yourself? If so, with which fuse(s)? What about Lew's thought about the need for audiophile grade fuse holders?
The M60Mk2.2 manual, with regard to fuses, states:
"The first fuse by the power cord entry is the Output section B+ and is 3 Amp Slow (1.5A slow for 235V). The middle fuse is the filament fuse and is 3 Amp Slow (1.5A for 235). The last fuse controls the driver circuit and is 1 Amp slow (.5A Slow for 235 Volt).
Is the "first" fuse what you are calling the "main" fuse?
Also, audiophile grade fuses are said to be directional. The "IsoClean" fuses that I am considering (for lack of any better idea) are marked with an arrow that is supposed to be aligned with the direction of current flow. What is this direction for the "main" fuse?
Thanks,
Rupe
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