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Does anyone have this handy? In the resources section with all the XO info the 1.7/1.7i model is not present. Going to try to do some XO improvements on my pair, need this as base info. Need diagram with component values please. Thanks in advance.
Edits: 04/23/23Follow Ups:
I am going to try to take this step by step, see what improvements are audible. I have the 11Stereo silver fuse inserts now, and am using better wire links in the attenuator plugs. In my system I like the overall balance without tweeter resistors (my room is well damped).
First I will try to bypass the ferrous input plate and fuse block, and replace stock internal wire and connectors with better wire and proper solder. Also replace with serious copper binding posts for speaker wire. But leave all the stock series XO parts in place.
Then later, I will upgrade the XO components (same values) with better caps and inductor and see what that does.
Fun summer project.
i am trying to summon the courage to undress the bottom of the speakers and get into it...
Well, if you're going to dive in I suggest to have a clear objective. If your intention is to just replace the existing components with expensive "audiophile quality" versions, then I would have some hesitation.
If your intention is to revamp it into a parallel configuration, or some other significant change, then maybe it's worth doing.
Most of the tonal balance issues folks have with Magnepan's can be fixed with equalization, without performing surgery on the speakers.
The 1.7 is a hard load for the power amp at higher frequencies. The speaker itself produces rather high distorsion in the bass if you push it. The 3.7 is far better.
Well, the 1.7 bass performance is inherent in the basic design of the speaker. Other than high-passing to integrate with a subwoofer, we can't do anything about that.
Sure, a 3.7 has better bass performance. I'm not sure what your point is since he's asking about the 1.7.
Regardless, I don't believe this is a hard load for a decent amplifier. In the vast majority of cases, a user will need to use a series resistor in the tweeter leg anyways. Even up at the highest frequencies the impedance will be in the 3 ohm range. And very little power required up there.
And, if there really is an impedance concern the 10uf capacitor can have a leg clipped which will remove the shunt effect of the single trace super-tweeter. You have a 1.6 tweeter then.
It looks like this.
Not sure about the values but I have seen them somewhere. It is a series crossover (https://sound-au.com/parallel-series.htm). I think the components interacts in some way which is not the case for a parallel crossover.
Found the schematic!
That schematic (from PG) is confusing.
This is the 1.7 schematic drawn with normal convention.
And, I'm not sure it's correct for the 1.7i.
Magnepan's way of making certain nobody experiments with biamp ......
Too much is never enough
I don't believe they did it for just that reason, but it's probably had a significant effect in that direction. :)
AGreed, I was being a LITTLE snarky.
Magnepan has been a DIY speaker for a couple decades at least and now, they all seem to come with series crossover so that avenue is pretty much closed out....UNLESS you really get serious....
But I'm not convinced the total circiit really is much different than a 'discrete', more traditional 2-way or 3-way.....
Too much is never enough
I dunno about that. The vast majority of Maggies in the field are probably unmodified and haven't endured any DIY efforts.
The series "total circuit" is quite a bit different than a parallel configuration. But it's not an unusual thing for Magnepan. Many of their past models utilized series crossovers.
In any case, it's still very straightforward for an enterprising DIY'er to reconfigure the speakers for a parallel crossover and/or bi-amp configuration.
I just wanted to confirm that R1 as shown is the external resistor to reduce tweeter output, correct? So if presently I am happy with the level of tweeter output, I would ignore that R1 if I were replicating an outboard XO using the specified caps and coils, yes?
Thanks in advance.
Yes, R1 is the optional resistor for tweeter attenuation.
In my experience, the speakers are unlistenable without some sort of attenuation....either with the resistor or electronic equalization.
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