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In Reply to: RE: ? New Amps R Best 4 MG's posted by steve.sukiennik on July 22, 2017 at 07:35:52
The A21 is an excellent choice if you're on a budget, sort of the least expensive amp currently made that can properly be called high end. If you're adventurous, you can improve its performance by upping the bias, there are instructions online.
If you spend a bit more, e.g., on a Pass, you can buy more finesse.
People inevitably speak highly of the Sanders Magtech, which was designed with Maggies in mind and with its regulated power supply can deliver all the current you'll ever want and then some.
At the opposite extreme, you can even get away with an Emotiva XPA-2 if you're really strapped for cash, I compared one to the A21 and while the A21 was the better amp the XPA was quite serviceable.
Another possibility would be to bi-amp, now or in the future -- I assume you're talking about your 1-D's? They're ideal for bi-amping, with a simple first order crossover -- you could throw together a passive line level XO in an afternoon. And of course then you can use smaller amps.
Follow Ups:
Hay josh358,
Sorry 2 mess up this note w/another person's
Thank U, Thank U, Thank U,
U saved me tons of time shopping. I'm a little confused though. I thought biamping means adding another dirty electric X-over. I had it long ago & a super ultra refined balls out single amp thru the dirty choke & dirty cap was way clearer. Shoodn't I go that rte w/U'r amp suggestions along w/an upgraded new foil choke & an audio quality cap?
Thx,
Steve
That's the beauty of a single pole crossover -- you don't need an active electronic crossover at all! You can just use passive components between the preamp and the power amps, then wire directly to the woofer and tweeter.
The trick is that the values will depend on equipment impedances, but if you aren't going to be swapping out amps regularly, that isn't an issue. If you are going to be swapping out amps, then you do need an electronic crossover.
Hay josh358,
Sorry 2 B so stupid but I just didn't get it rite a way. I never heard of passive X-over B4 amping. Or do U mean a fixed freq 2way electronic X-over B4 amping? Also T-1D's do not need subs unless U'r equip is budget trash so I only need Xing-over at say 1100hz.
U'r take?
Steve
Nope, I was talking about a passive XO. It couldn't be a simpler crossover. The only thing about passive XO's is that you have to take the impedances of the amplifiers into account when calculating the component values. So you can't just throw another amp in to try it.
Hay josh358,
Thank U, Thank U, Thank U, Thank U, Thank U, Thank U,
But do I still need 2 amps or 4 monoblox w/this new 2 me X-over method?
Thx,
Steve
Yep, same number of amps. The only difference is that the XO is passive rather than active. Or you could try Satie's idea and bi amp using the high level XO in the speaker, but it won't sound as good.
Hay again josh358,
Do U mean Magnepan XO X-over thing. There's currently 1 on Ebay 4 $75. If so, what R the pots 4, volume I guess. Is it scratchy dirty & in need of tuner cleaner? Can't B 4 changing freqs.
Thx,
Steve
As Roger said, the point is to minimize low quality components in the signal path. And the XO-1 is not made with the highest quality parts. You can readily build a substitute volume control or get a passive for under $50 like the one from Schiit. You only need the one to use on the higher gain amp. If the amp has a level adjustment on it then you can just use that (e.g. the A21).
Hay Satie,
Thank U, Thank U,
I'm startin 2 get it. A clean EZ passive X-over B4 amping, I'm I rite?
I'm totally aware that ALL has 2 B considered wen putting this SUPER system 2gether. Altho my Quad 606 is a much better match 2 my tymps w/conventional X-over, I miss the clean lo TIM character of my Leach LNF-1 100watt amp. It was clean but not enuff 4 tymps. I no longer have it. Last year or so I should've bought one on EBAY 4 only $149USD. They R few & far.
Wouldn't that or similar work out 4 the tweets & the Quad 606 4 the bass panels. I'll have 2 get something B4 I dive into the X-over deal/project 1st, Rite?
Yes, you are right.
First, you could just start with passive speaker level biamping - the Leach or whatever you like in 100W high bias class AB low feedback amp or Tubes to drive the tweeter and keep the quad for the bass. You just need to wire the amp output directly to the tweeter with the capacitor in series, and the bass amp directly to the bass panel with the inductor in series. It will provide most of the benefit of biamping since the 1st order filters are easy on the amps since they are not very reactive.
You might need a volume control on one of the amps - depends on which one you choose.
Then you can take your time to choose parts and construct a line level passive crossover (PLLXO), you should be able to make it with a single cap on the tweeter amp and a resistor and cap for the bass amp.If you like you can splice it into the interconnects and skip RCA in and out connectors and their joints (you save 4 joints and 2 connector junctions).
Thank U again Satie,
Question I've always pondered: Since all my preamps have always had just 1 main out, what should I devise 2 expand 2 2 main outs? How can I B sure that both R not affecting each other. Like the basic Y connector in a garden hose divider. Water pressure & volume decrease accordingly. Does something like this &/or worse need 2 B addressed?
Thx,
Steve
Forget the Magnepan XO-1, it is just a plastic enclosure with two cheap potentiometers and a few RCA-connectors. You need to solder in two capacitors to create a first order high pass filter. You also need to keep the passive low pass section of your speaker level crossover. The potentiometers set the level of the basses.http://www.forumbilder.se/DEV78/img-9403.jpg
http://www.forumbilder.se/DEV78/img-9404.jpg
http://www.forumbilder.se/DEV78/img-9405.jpg
Edits: 08/01/17
I was thinking you'd just throw one together, but if the Magnepan XO is available, why not snap it up? You can always change the components if you like.
And you can just biamp the T 1D with the original passive parts just by rewiring the jumpers - the connector plate is even marked up for biamping.
I'd forgotten about that.
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