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I'm interested in getting advice on speaker cable recommends for Magnepan .7s
I've done several upgrades to my setup. I'm now trying to catch up my cables. I'm interested in finding speaker cables that will be well suited to my system. I would like to spend under $150 and prefer to buy used.
I have read that anti-cables or mapleshades are often recommended. That's all I know.
_
Magnepan .7
Rythmik F12 Sub
Don Sachs SP12 tube preamp
Van Alstine Fet Valve 600r hybrid amp
IFI Micro iDSD Black Label USB DAC
Bluesound Node 1 streamer
Blue Jeans Cable interconnects
Tidal
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I've heard a few cables in my system (3.6's), and none matched the simple Anti-Cables. You can always go DIY as suggested also. Don't overthink it and go thicker though, the thin cable works fantastic.
Grant ... which anti-cable? I know they have several options now.....
I've had 2; the original and the improved 2.1, and I honestly prefer the original.
do you use their bananas for the 3.6?
I am considering a cheap option initially for my 20s that will be coming in - in a month......
I pass my internal wire (bypassing fuse and holder) into the speaker wire terminal, and wires to amp same. Use the clamp in other words simply to hold the internal wire and external wire together.
Edits: 06/26/17
"The clamp"? Do you mean to say the set screw? Where's there a "clamp" in a Maggie? (The bottom picture might afford a better view of what's going on at the right side of the frame instead of all the fabric on its left.)
Yes, the set screw. It's tough to get a picture that clearly shows the wires touching one another, thus why I posted from inside and out. The idea is there I think though; the set screw connector is not used to pass current, only as a clamp.
Grantv,
Many thanks for your reply to assist me in appreciating your wiring set-up.
Defo +1 on that
Rod received some rather different recommendations over at Audiogon ;-).
Edits: 06/18/17
No doubt. :)
I'm not sure what the point is in asking for speaker cable recommendations. Ask twenty people and you will receive twenty different recommendations.
The whole audio speaker cable industry is just crazy.
Dave.
"The whole audio speaker cable industry is just crazy."
Methinks 'philes tempted to listen/buy the cables are the crazy ones. OTOH, the "industry" is sane and just trying to make a buck.
I remember way back when the first not so crazy speaker wire my audio dealer was selling was this one: http://i27.tinypic.com/ogyvxu.jpg.
(IIRC he more than a single financial interest in selling them.)
Pricey, but still not as costly as today's exotic wires.
Sorry about that link, I had tested it and it worked. Perhaps I should try again.
This one seems to work:
http://www.tmraudio.com/product/mj-261
(Clicking on the image enlarges it.)
(If that one doesn't work I promise to give up. Editing my first post didn't work either.)
Exactly.
Responses can range from 'Copper Wire'
to
Unobtanium insulated Solid Silver.
Too much is never enough
http://www.planetengineers.com/default.asp?cat=Wire%2C+Magnet&gclid=CjwKEAjw4IjKBRDr6p752cCUm3kSJAC-eqRtX3kAJ63VFZP6d6dxeiOquRfRHLlFUdFOP8MaE4KVNxoCdG7w_wcB
To try out magnet cable is it worth getting these? If so which one?
go with the 14# since your amp and speaker's requirements don't go further than that, the thinner gauge would provide a very slightly fuller top end.
Another approach is JBen's ribbon mag wire cabling which is brighter so might be a better match to your tube electronics, which might end up too mellow with a solid core this thick.
I emailed JBen about his ribbon cable.
I came across the DNM solid core cables and was wondering if those are a good option?
I have used dnm cables - usually better than magnet wire of the same gauge, and they are good value when discounted. Partsconnexion had a DNM sale more than a few months ago, maybe they have something left over.
I got mine from Remington Industries . About 2/3 the price as your source. The coating doesn't really matter that much. Polyamide is for higher temp applications. Personally, I am using 16G despite Satie's comment that is doesn't work as well with high wattage amps and Maggies - my amp produces 500W into 4 ohm. I had used 12G (Anti-cable) but the runs were too short when I got my 3.7i so I went DIY. I do not terminate the wire but do clean the ends about every 3 months with DeOxit. I could not compare the 16 AWG v 12 AWG but I don't think I am losing anything with 16. The thicker gauge has one distinct advantage - it is stiff enough so you can keep it off the ground without using lifters.
I married the perfect woman. The downside is everything that goes wrong is my fault.
I purchased some pure copper bulk 12 gauge wire and the no solder MediaBridge spades from eBay and used these to bi-amp my Martin Logan Prodigies.
I was using these when I rebuilt my MG-IIIs and they sounded pretty good in my HT setup. I figured it was time to upgrade my cables. I am still bi-amping and had a pair of AudioQuest Crystal cables already that I had to slightly modify for the run to the outboard crossover. I purchased AQ Type 6 for the run from the amp to the mid/tweets and a short pair of AQ Type 8 for the jumper from the XO to bass input on the speakers. I bought both sets of these just because they were a good deal and are genuine AQ cables (I hope). Every run of these cables are solid. I am not splitting them in 2 for highs and lows.
I have to tell you that there is not much difference. The Maggies always sounded good and still do. I can also tell you I am done with wires.
Currently I am bi-amping using a Krell KAV500 5 channel amp with 100 watts per with the 5th channel going to my center speaker. I have a Krell KAV250a sitting around that I would like to try with the Maggies but that means no bi-amping and then I need something for my center channel. And more messing with wires. It never ends......... LOL
I sold the ML Prods btw.
Good Luck
Mac MC7106, Krell KAV-250a, Krell KAV-500, Maggie MG111, ADS 810 & 780, Pioneer SC-1522, Dahlquist 903, AR 1
Edits: 06/15/17
You can biamp with the 250 on the bass and 2 channels of the KAV500 on the mid/tweeter. If gain is mismatched between the amps then you might need a vol control on one of them. That is not expensive and may not be necessary. Even if so, if you have a preamp hanging around you can do it with no additional expense.
I suggest to purchase KnuKonceptz Kord Kable. Nice wire. 100% OFC and very flexible and easy to use.
50 foot spool of 14awg available on Amazon for $24.00.
If you spend more than that on speaker wire, you're wasting your money.
Dave.
Thanks for posting this resource.
Use something like this instead
http://apexjr.com/wire.html
The stranded PVC wire does not sound good, and corrodes rather quickly if you have gold connectors on it and you are not in a dry area. I only suggest solid core copper or plated stranded copper cable and never with PVC. It is a lousy dielectric and is just used solely because it is cheap.
The silver plated copper in Teflon or Kynar from Apex Jr and Mil surplus sellers on ebay is much better and retains its quality over time, and it is not expensive.
For a tonally warmer cable try solid core, or tin plated stranded copper.
you'll no doubt get some great recs here but somewhere down the road you might want to consider DIY speaker cables and/or interconnects. With a $30 soldering iron and a multi-meter from Radio Shack I made an entire set of interconnects complete with Cardas jacks for around $200. They best all cables I've owned (including anti's).
Also check out Youtube on DIY Spk cables.
In any event good luck with what you come up with!
Hendrix at the turntable! So great
Just order a spool of magnet wire and appropriate and solidly built screw on terminations from parts express (e.g. their knoockoff WBT banana plugs) and make your own. Very simple and we can walk you through it.
Another option for more open top end is a stranded silver plated copper from a mil spec overstock seller like Apex Jr. Also available on ebay.
I would like to try it. I've never touched a soldering iron before, however. I'll watch the video and others to get an idea. If you think that a nice set of speaker cables can be made without previous experience than I'm game.
I am suggesting solderless terminations.
I am thining that you should target 14 gauge or even 12 gauge. 16 gauge is not going to be enough for a maggie with a high power amplifier.
Go to Parts Express and buy four lengths of Dueland 16 gauge cable. Two lengths for each cable twisted together. Strip the ends and just use the bare wire to attach to your amps and speakers. Inexpensive and really great cable. You can use there 20 gauge to make interconnects or buy them pre made. Go to joshs blog to read about this cable
Alan
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