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In Reply to: RE: Tympani terminals and fuses---what to do?! posted by BDP24 on April 28, 2017 at 11:11:23
Release the internal wires and thread them into the terminals and use stripped ends of the speaker wire to thread in,, or thin flexible pin connectors if the wire gauge is too heavy, and use the screws on the maggie terminals to crimp the internal and external wires together. Easy to reverse, does away with most of the problem of passing current through magnetic components and is simple and costless.
That will bypass your fuses but I would not worry when using a tube amp in a biamp setup.
Follow Ups:
Thanks Satie. Let me get clarification on a few terms you used:
1- "Release the internal wires". I don't know what you mean by release. That word implies the wires are connected to the banana jacks in some manner other than soldered. Is that the case? Does each terminal plate have one set of wires coming from the driver(s) to the banana jacks & fuse holder? As you can tell, I have yet to see the innards of a Maggie! Maybe I should remove the plate and take a look inside, maybe then everything would become clear to me. I have gigs tonight and tomorrow night, so I'll do that after the weekend.
2- "and thread them into the terminals". What terminals? The stock T-IV terminals? If yes, what have I bypassed by doing so? What exactly are the ferrous parts that need to be eliminated from the signal path?
3- "and use the stripped ends of the speaker wire to thread in". For the bass panels I have some Kimber 8VS cables (9awg) with banana plugs. When I was going to keep the stock T-IV connection scheme, I was considering replacing the 8VS bananas with Cardas Magy Pins. Satie, does your suggestion retain the stock T-IV banana jacks on the terminal plate, into which the driver leads and the speaker cable wire are to be inserted? So they'll just meet and overlap and intermingle?
4- "and use the screws on the Maggie terminals to crimp the internal and external wires together". From that I take it my above scenario is correct? Isn't the Maggie terminal itself part of the problem, with it having steel parts? If in this arrangement the internal wires are stuffed into the stock terminals, what parts are being bypassed? Where and how are the internal wires connected from the factory? I assumed they were soldered onto the terminals, but I guess not, ay? I really need to have a look inside!
So thanks again, sorry for all the questions!---Eric.
1. Meaning desolder the internal wires from the terminals. Sometimes they have steel tabs - if that is the case, remove them from the wires.
2. using the original banana terminals. by connecting the wires directly to each other you are not passing the current through the magnetic terminal materials. You are reducing the magnitude of the problem down to eddy currents in the magnetic terminal materials - particularly the washers - which you can replace with non magnetic ones of the same gauge and thread. That should give you most of the benefit of replacing them with high grade posts, and also provide 2 fewer solder joints in the way..
3. The solution I am suggesting is retaining the original terminals. But using them with the wires threaded in from outside and inside into the hollow area does not allow for the banana plug on the speaker wire itself as it would not fit in the terminal, since there would be another wire inside. The narrower stripped wire would go in instead of the banana plug.
The other thing you could do if the wire is too fat to fit in the terminal's tube is to pull the internal wire out through the terminal tube and solder it to the speaker cable just outside the terminal,
Thanks a million Satie, I get it now! I can't wait to take them apart and have a look inside.
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