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In Reply to: RE: Tube Bass Traps. posted by timm on December 12, 2016 at 17:21:21
The DIY instructions on the web advises covering 1/2 of the fiberglass tube with 2ml plastic using staples into the fiberglass.I used spray adhesive on 4 of the 3' traps that I built.On the last two traps,I removed 1/2 of the coated foil rather than removing all of it & going back with 2ml plastic.I found that the coated foil works well as a difusser.My next step will be to cover the traps with muslin or other inexpensive fabric.
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I saw the 'remove half of the foil' - and either place it in front for diffusion - or back for absorption..... Trying to figure if the 2mil plastic would have any detrimental effects?
Btw - thanks .... I didn't think of spray adhesive... I have also seen this seam glue .... which could work as well....
It seems like creating the round cutouts would be the most difficult task here....
They say to remove all of the foil and replace 1/2 of it with the plastic.I did not experiment with the units that I removed all of the foil and did the 1/2 plastic,but the unit that I left 1/2 of the foil certainly acted as a diffuser when the foil side faced out into the room.
I experimented with a variety of clear plastic thicknesses for the diffusion. Opted for a thinner one than the 2 mil, but I don't recall what I settled on. Have to disagree with leaving the foil on the fiberglass tubes: it's way too thick. The original tube traps use a clear plastic with a number of different holes in it: presumably to absorb / diffuse different frequencies. On my DIY, I used the clear plastic as a solid peace on 1/2 side of the tube.Stapled it to the presseboard-circle ends. It's okay if it flops around the length of the tube. You still want the bass pressure waves to get to the fiberglass. I bought speaker fabric from Joannes fabrics:4 ft wide. Rolled the tube slowly as I stapled the fabric to the pressboard circles on each end. Once the fabric totally encircled the tube, I folded the final 2-3 inches extra fabric under itself, then used fabric-glue along the length to seal it. I ensured that the glued seam was on the NON-diffuse wide of the tube. Also place a brass upholstery tack in the fiberboard circle, on the side of the diffusor (opposite the seam-side). This was done, AFTER affixing the white PVC end to the top only: used with upholstery tacks for that. Remember to leave about 1 inch of the PVC strips extended on the top of the tube, to hold a 2nd tube stacked on top.
"I see sound waves"
Good work making the tube traps.Cutting the circles is a PITA huh?How do you know that the ASC traps have perforations in the diffusing plastic layer?I have two 3' 20" traps stacked in the rt corner of my front wall that I left 1/2 of the foil on.I have 3/4 of the foil layer facing into the room.I know that the foil is thick,but the room sounds nice,vocals are right in the center,bass well defined & less bloat.I have two more stacked in the corners of the rear wall absorptive side out.I'm only using one stack on the front wall rt.corner since the wall rounds on the left & there is a utility room door.I'm thinking that the room sucks up some bass.
I have Qty 6 of the 16 inch ASC tube traps. I discovered the chicken wire (hardware cloth) and the plastic diffusor when I took one apart. The holes are not perforations. They are actually 'random' holes from 1 inch to about 4 inches in diameter. I suspect that they create a more random diffusion because the hole diameters would expose different wavelengths to the absorptive fiberglass underneath. On my DIY units a used a solid piece of plastic to cover 1/2 of the unit. Works well.
"I see sound waves"
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