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I'm having a second bike assembled and even though I got an NOS frame at less than 1/3 from new and also received a discount on the group, crankset and cassette(paid retail for saddle/bars/bottom bracket), it's going to be expensive(still need a stem and wheels@$3300+).
All of the years I spent daydreaming about assembling the best system I could afford, it didn't bother me. This does as I could've bought what I really wanted used and fully assembled for less.
Follow Ups:
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The YT video below seems to express the best about the Tour Divide
2700 miles, 200,000 feet of climbing, Banff to the Mexican Boarder.
Just picked up a Specialized Diverge Elite DSW for Father's Day. Really like it. Much more comfortable than my Trek USPS road bike. And still almost as fast as my Trek on the flats. Hill climbing the Trek beats the Specialized. Probably because the Trek is six pounds lighter. But I really like having disc brakes on the Specialized. Just like my Trek Fuel EX7 full suspension mountain bike.
Long time cyclist with too many bikes, 3 steel road, 3 ti road. Pic of one of my steel bikes at the builder's shop.
New bike has more redundancy, don't want to go through that again.
Dominos have introduced ebikes for their pizza deliveries around our suburb. Plenty of auto-off failures there!
Cheers,
John K
?
:-)
Warmest
Tim Bailey
Skeptical Measurer & Audio Scrounger
nt
With my personal life in disarray, I really need to dig out my old De Rosa and get off my ass. Lots of club racing back in the 80's into the 90's, not a lot lately. Looks like crap now, but it'll clean up. Thanks!
But it lt looks about my size.
I'll look after it if you don't want it ;-)
Cheers,
John K
Dead men don't listen to audio!
Might need some new tires / tubes, depending on how long its been sitting.
Too much is never enough
I try to ride everyday, very early in the morning in the summer, mountain bike due to where I live. Spend much less on my bike than on audio, full suspension Gary Fisher now.
At one point recovering from knee surgery added electric motor (1/2 hp Kollmorgen) to full suspension bike. Could regulate knee pressure with throttle, helped recovery. Then used it for last very steep climb home, few lbs of nano LIPO's gets me home three times on a charge.
And I bike commute on a heavy beater that I've got ~$1,000 into total. It is steel and actually rides nice, but my biking friends do not understand why I don't spend more for better (especially when they see my stereo!). I had the itch to upgrade during the winter non-riding season, but once I got beck on and got commuting, I couldn't see why. I like the amount of effort it takes me to ride my 16 mile journey, and making it easier isn't the right move.
I do think getting a good bike fitting would good for my aging body, and then I'd have to buy a new bike. My 2,500 miles per year does seem tougher on the low back.
The 'light bike' is one of the myths of cycling.
Sure, for a PRO who in a very aggressive stage may climb several thousand feet and still should have some power left for a Sprint, it makes sense to shave ounces.But for MOST of us? I could LOSE the equivelent in weight of your steel bike and STILL be too heavy
Besides, not ALL steels are created equal.
For example:
Reynolds 753R is chemically identical to 531. difference are in wall thickness and the fact that the 753R is heat treated and requires a bit more skill to properly braze up without huring the material.Aluminum has NO FATIGUE STRENGTH and due to that and lower tensile limits, must be 'laid on' a bit thicker and bigger diameter. Aluminum framesets have a very finite lifetime since every stress cycle eats into ultimate lifespan. This is for 6000 series alloys, which can be mainly heat treated to mild steel tubing levels = T6.
Other alloys of aluminum have different characteristics. Some can't be welded, but take to GLUE very well.Titanium is where you want to be. An Aircraft Hydraulic Tubing alloy, like Six-Four or Three-two and a half are Ti / Al and Vanadium alloys which are amazing. High tensile strength AND a very high elasticity. They don't wear out, either. Fatigue limits are VERY high as is tensile limits.
Avoid CP Titanium (Commerically Pure)Nothing wrong with a good steel bike.
Too much is never enough
Edits: 06/14/17
The rest of the guys I ride with all have modern bikes, but I enjoy mine just fine.
Found it (frame only) hanging in a shop window in 1982. Went in, made a deal. It was a college graduation present to myself.
Its an Austro Damlier with Reynolds 531 tubing, Campagnolo Nuovo Record derailleurs and shifters, Super Record hubs, crank, pedals and headset, Mavic rims and Modolo Pro brakes. Very old school.
I first built it with Shimano EX components, which were more affordable, so I could start riding it and then did all of the upgrades within the first three years. Nothing has changed since.
It was crazy expensive in its day and not worth much now. I'd never sell or replace it. We've logged too many miles together and at my age I think the rider might be most important component on the bike.
Dean.
reelsmith's axiom: Its going to be used equipment when I sell it, so it may as well be used equipment when I buy it.
gee, and, wowww,
BGBO for everyone else who just might get that.
? Blinding Glimse of the Bleeding Obvious?
Warmest
Tim Bailey
Skeptical Measurer & Audio Scrounger
Unfortunately Tim, in today's world of high tech and marketing hype, and preying on the male ego, bike manufacturers are in a technology war where a few percent of gains in a windtunnel put their new model at the top of the pile.
The fact that you need pro cyclist physiology to take advantage of the aero benefits is not mentioned in the sales pitch ;-)Unlike F1 or the Americas Cup, you, or I could go to the bike shop and ride home on the exact same machine that is currently winning world championships. Paying for speed via upgradeitis tempts many many amateur competitive riders.
Spending on a bike fit and on a training program would give much better results .........
Cheers,
John K
Edits: 06/16/17
You might be surprised what it's with these days, not that you're selling.
I started riding a proper road bike in 1980 or so on a black with yellow tape with 5 speed Suntour.
I haven't ridden downtube shifters for a long long time. Sort of miss them.
Cheers,
John K
Back when I was riding daily I always wanted a Ciocc. I liked their framework.
Just for heck of it I looked into what they were up to today.
In addition to their modern line they make a line of "classic" bikes... presumably for nostalgic old farts like myself.
Link below.
Dean.
reelsmith's axiom: Its going to be used equipment when I sell it, so it may as well be used equipment when I buy it.
But with 10 speed via downtube shifters.It's the L'Eroica thing - steel and downtube shifters are way hip :-)
Cheers,
John K
Edits: 06/14/17
Vintage guys on vintage bikes.
Look like a very cool event.
My favorite part of cycling has always been climbing hills.
Back when I was a daily rider and in good shape there was nothing I enjoyed more than getting out of the saddle and charging up a hill.
What a rush !
Thanks again. I enjoyed that.
Dean.
reelsmith's axiom: Its going to be used equipment when I sell it, so it may as well be used equipment when I buy it.
Vintage looks out of place now. I started in '84 on a Centurian Dave Scott Ironman w/36 spokes. Could never go back to those days with ugly/droopy saddles one inch stem and odd looking fork rakes.
Vintage looks out of place now. I started in '84 on a Centurian Dave Scott Ironman w/36 spokes. Could never go back to those days with ugly/droopy saddles one inch stem and odd looking fork rakes.
I started on a Centurion LeMans exactly like the one below (minus the safety reflectors). I'll have to differ with you because I still like the look. I don't care for the sloping top tubes that are so common today, and I think a lot of the aero features on top racing bikes look out of proportion and ugly (purposeful, but ugly).
...Jaguar XKE, or a Ferrari Dino.
Timeless good looks.
I think a lot of modern bikes look way cool... others as awkward as a Pontiac Aztek.
To each their own.
Dean.
reelsmith's axiom: Its going to be used equipment when I sell it, so it may as well be used equipment when I buy it.
I don't mind the look at all and am tempted at times to go real vintage, but the downtube shifters scared me sometimes back in the '80's, still scare me now - Nothing spookier than downhill twisties and trying to pre-shift for the right gear when the bottom corner is approaching ......
Good for social cruises though. Zero maintenance.
Cheers,
John K
4,000 miles last year despite other distractions.
I club-raced Criteriums in the Miami area back in the 80s. Those races, really just for fun, were justification for having spent about $1,000 on the frame and components. Back then, light meant 21lbs. and aluminum frames with oh-so stiff geometries had just come on the racing scene.
Before my spine let me down, mountain biking became my pastime and lightness just as avidly pursued as for the road. Then I read a post on the MTBR Forum from a guy who had just come home with an expensive component that shaved a few grams off the bike's total weight. His wife commented something to the effect that 'putting down those cookies would save you more weight than any amount of $$$ you could spend on gear'.
Of course, when women (post-wife) make a comment on the price of a bike or how many albums I have, my rejoinder is always, "how many pairs of shoes do you own?"
Yep. 56 yo Cat 3 racer. Love it.
Drama free, good buddies, great workout.
Though I did go through the back window of a parked car in April, which wasn't so great ........
Cheers,
John K
Though I did go through the back window of a parked car in April, which wasn't so great ........
I'd imagine not !
Great picture. Glad you are ok.
Love the socks !
Dean.
reelsmith's axiom: Its going to be used equipment when I sell it, so it may as well be used equipment when I buy it.
30kmh straight into the back.
$4K damage to the car. I left a huge hole through the back window and dents in the boot lid.
It was a 2013 Mercedes 250 CLS coupe!
The Litespeed seems completely undamaged, but forks aren't designed for that kind of abuse - I haven't ridden it since.
A new fork is arriving for it this week.
It only took a couple of weeks for my face to heal up. I've had to ride my mtb out with the boys (I have no spare roadie) - very hard work. And the Litespeed on rollers.
Can't wait to get properly going again!
Cheers,
John K
No can do!
Besides 3000-4000 LPs and a garage full of bikes, I have more shoes in the closet than Imelda Marcos! =:-0
Made me look and here's a pic of a 1983-ish De Rosa, mine was red with pre-Record-Nuovo Super Record Grupo and Mavic clinchers. We were both turned into pretzels by a Metro-Dade bus Easter Sunday morning 1989 under the Lehmann Causeway.
Didn't ride again until 8 years ago when I moved to Asheville and discovered Mt. Biking. No Buses, just Timber Rattlers!
Got hooked and bought a Santa Cruz Heckler Frame you couldn't tell from new on Ebay and had a local shop fit it with Shimano 'good stuff' brakes and wheels, mid-range Rockshox 8" fork.
Then 3 years ago I got hit by another bus, degenerative arthritis, spine and hip. Bye Bye, bike.
I have been riding varioius bikes on a regular basis for more than 50 years (I'm 67 yrs. old). I raced criteriums, road races, time trials, and on the velodrome (Northfield, IL; Major Taylor in Indy; Washington Park, Kenosha, WI; NSC at Blaine, MN). I've been a college racing team coach and ran a coaching service with a client list of numerous amateurs and a pro.
The suggestion by a poster below to find a good bicycle fitter is an excellent first step even if you think you know what size frame you need. Once a cyclists knows their flexibility level and geometric preferences, finding the right bike is a more likely prospect.
Second, assuming you have set your budget, try riding demo bikes set up to your prefereed geometry with frames of various materials and determine whether you can tell the difference and, if so, what you prefer. As in audio, try to compare bikes with similar group sets (components) rather than comparing one bike with an entry level drive train to another with top-of-the-line compenents.
Some additional notes to consider:
Whether buying new or used, have the bike checked out by a bicycle mechanic or very knowledgeable cyclist before you close the deal.
Steel and aluminum frames of various alloys and plastic (carbon fibre) can be made to ride from stiff to flexy. Pay more attention to the actual feel of the bike than to it's material.
Bike shops typically have a low margin (unlike in audio), so deep discounts on "new" bikes is usually limited to older year models in non-standard sizes (the left-overs).
If you are sure absolutely of what you want and you plan to buy on line, get a commitment from the seller (whether a retailer or private person) for return rights within 10 days to 2 weeks.
Today, you can buy at retail a very comfortable, light road or adventure bicycle with decent components in a range from $2,000 to $22,000. A new brand-name bike with factory spec'd components will almost always be less expensive and offer better value than buying a frame separately and hanging sale-priced components on it.
Good hunting!
Cheers,
Ian
I used to race, but that was many years ago (HS and college). After that, it was mostly fitness rides with my wife and/or friends. And some mtn biking for fun. These days, I have two young kids and a house to keep up with and a commute that isn't rideable, so I don't ride nearly enough.
My road bike is a mongrel that has been upgraded here and there over the years. I've stuck with a surplus Specialized Roubaix frame from some time (in the late 90s I think) when they made them with long top tubes and moderate seat tube angle. I like my back to be straight and comfortably stretched out, and so I like a longer than average top tube. Whenever I try out new bikes (at least the ones that are reasonably priced), I tend to feel cramped unless it's fitted with a really long stem, which I don't like. I should have gotten a LeMond back when Greg was specifying the frame geometry, before they became Treks with a different brand name. Components are mostly 105 and Ultegra, and I run a compact double.
Every once in a while I get the itch to buy something new, but I've never really been into the hardware side of the hobby so much. A few of my cycling friends are more into their rides than the riding and have a collection of sorts to show off. Even when I was racing I never felt like I was handicapped because my 105 groupset weighed a pound more than Dura-Ace. I just want a comfortable, efficient position, a drivetrain that stays in tune, and good wheels.
I also like single track mtn biking and most recently had a Specialized Rockhopper Comp Disc. I like a hardtail with 26ers and a slightly too-small frame because I can ride it a bit like the BMX bikes I grew up with. Unfortunately it was stolen and I haven't replaced it yet.
Passed on a LeMond (met him when he was an armature racing his last race before heading to Europe) some time ago. If memory serves, it was a Titanium frame (is that possible?) and seemed to be of the era where his bikes were considerably different in design from those with the TREK label. Sorry now I didn't jump on it as the seller was asking a reasonable price and one can't have too many bikes!
A long top tube would be preferable for me being near 6 ft. with short legs. As it is, I have always used a 130 stem but that is less than ideal as it puts the bars too far ahead of the steer tube/front forks. :-(
Plus the longer bike can be a lot easier ride in all respects.
Had one of the very first Klein Team Supers in the mid/late 70's. Track bike geometry with toe-clip crossover with the front wheel, beat the crap out of me but great for that last few yards at the top of a hill!
Now I'm into comfort rather than speed.
I didn't think LeMond made a Ti frame, but I'm not exactly a bike historian so I don't know for sure.
I know with his original company, his frames were carbon. And when he went into business with Trek in the mid-90s, he used carbon frames in the top models and Reynolds steel in the rest. The top end carbon frame bikes had ideal geometry for me: 56cm top tube, 53cm seat tube, and a 73.5 seat angle. If I remember right, the LeMond Maillot Jaune was $4k+ with Campy Record, which was way more bike than I needed or wanted or could afford at the time. But the Chambery was more like $2500 with Ultegra and I could have (and should have) gotten one.
The mid-90s steel frame LeMond bikes were a cm or two shorter, and then sometime around '99 or '00 the whole line adopted the same (shorter) geometry. They were still longer and with a bit shallower angles than the Trek line, but no longer classic geometry.
My wife picked up one of the last LeMond bikes in 2007 or 2008, right before Trek dropped him due to his continuing criticism of Armstrong. She wanted something faster than her old Bianchi Trofeo when she started doing tris, and the LeMond still had the most comfortable geometry among the racier offerings. Nevertheless, she's never been as comfortable as on the Bianchi, and surprisingly, not as fast either except on steep climbs where the weight difference was noticeable.
To finally get to the point (sorry), I think there is a relationship between comfort and speed. Riding a bike with twitchy handling just saps a little bit of mental energy, a stiff ride where you feel every pavement imperfection contributes to fatigue, and if you're not comfortable you waste energy moving around a lot.
Yes, there were some beautiful Reynolds titanium bikes made at the Trek factory in Wisconsin.
If love one.
See piccy in the post further down.
Cheers,
John K
I have a Pinarello Paris cabon fiber....all Shimano top stuff. I only changed the uncomfortable (for Me) saddle and am using a bit heavier, but much more comfortable Brooks saddle.
Have some high-mileage friends who like them, the Cambium version too, but I tried them and ended up back with hard, no-hole, saddles - Prologo on my carbon and ti road bikes and fi'zik on the fat-tire. My one concession to comfort is my old, cushy Selle Italia Flite Gel on my 29'er hard-tail.
Just recently pulled my Cannondale out of mothballs and had a local bike shop put it back into good running order. I let the lease run out on my car, so the bike is partly needed for local transportation, but more for a little casual exercise. The area where I live can be a traffic challenge, but I'm careful. All that being said, it's nice to get back into the biking life. A simple pleasure.
Used to ride cross country (Pace RC200 with their suspension fork). Now more into road and adventure cycling of my youth.
Currently saving (not very studiously) for a Mason Bokeh .
Big J
"... only a very few individuals understand as yet that personal salvation is a contradiction in terms."
Down Under, Curve Cycles lead the way in adventure bikes with the Curve Grovel.
Curve was the choice of several riders in the recent, tragic, Indian Pacific Wheel Race, and in several of the Trans American races.
Cheers,
John K
That looks special. Ti frame as well?
Seems a generation of cyclists all ready to move to this type of ride, for whatever reason. For my part, its knowing that XC is too much fuss for me these days, and decent shocks a bother to maintain.
Just want the fun again of an all day ride!
Big J
"... only a very few individuals understand as yet that personal salvation is a contradiction in terms."
Not for this old guy.
Those stiff, straight front forks, necessitated by that front disk brake, would be a killer for my, old arthritic hands and wrists.
That said, all the young riders now have to have a 'ravel bike' in their stable so good on 'em, I say. Until you have at least a dozen bike in the garage, with your BEST ones in the living room and bedroom, you really don't qualify!
Big J
"... only a very few individuals understand as yet that personal salvation is a contradiction in terms."
Bikes and components are getting cheaper and cheaper.
I ride this 1999 Litespeed with new SRAM Force 22 and Shimano composite wheels.
I rebuilt it 2 or 3 years ago - re-investing in it rather than buying something else because the frame fits me so nicely and it really will last forever.
Because of Chinese/Taiwanese mfg and economies of scale, the 2nd hand bike market is dirt cheap. BUT, forget warranty on 2nd hand carbon frames or wheels. I wouldn't touch them.
You pays the price, and you takes your risks!
Cheers,
John K
Have wondered about trying it.
Big J
"... only a very few individuals understand as yet that personal salvation is a contradiction in terms."
I have a Cannondale Evo High-Mod carbon and a 2005 Litespeed Solano Ti.
When I bought the Cannondale, I simply could not find any suitable reason to sell the Litespeed. I am lucky to have both.
The Cannondale is fast, responsive, great up hills and overall comfortable to ride.
The Litespeed is all of the above but a little less of each. However, riding the ti is like butter....so smooth. It is great for cruising and a fun alternative to carbon. I enjoy it every time I ride it. Not quite as fast, but a great option for longer trips and for anything self-contained. It is loaded with panniers and ready for a three-day brewery destination trip at the end of next week.
I've never spent enough time on a carbon bike to tell. Wheels and tyres make a huge difference.
It does kill the steelie I had before it though. The Litespeed felt like floating over the tarmac v/s grinding on it as the Fuji did. Even with the same wheels and tyres.
Cheers,
John K
Big J
"... only a very few individuals understand as yet that personal salvation is a contradiction in terms."
I can't explain exactly why I quit.
The new bike, carbon fiber and Shimano Dura Ace..It was too damn twitchy. and I had two experiences in the first two rides to stop me for good.
First was a couple of kids trying to steal it.
Second was nearly being run over by a 18 wheel semi alondside, passing me.
I parked it. And really totally stopped riding.
I SHOULD have just kept that cheap bike I LIKED.
Those roadside truck experiences can be terrifying.
I'm saving for an adventure bike, to simulate the riding of my youth. A burly road bike. Aluminium, as I don't want to pretend I'm some super athlete and hate that 'twitchiness' you describe!
Hope you get riding again, in a way that gives you pleasure.
Big J
"... only a very few individuals understand as yet that personal salvation is a contradiction in terms."
Specialized have released a super sharp criterium race bike this year - the Allez Comp.
Super stiff unforgiving frame, razor sharp quick handling. Aluminium.
There are so many different bikes on the market now, knowing what bike for what kind of ride is becoming harder.
My old steel Fuji would dive into the apex of every corner, sometimes unnerving how quickly and easily it would change direction.
My Litespeed takes more conscious effort to turn, but is very stable and smooth at any speed - and still does ok on the racetrack.
Cheers,
John K
I don't understand the appeal of super steep, sometimes bordering on unstable 'crit' geometry.
I also ride motorcycles, and have owned some performance motorcycles and have done many track days. From my perspective, any reasonably designed bicycle takes practically zero effort to turn, and even on a 29er mtn bike you can change lines in the blink of an eye. You simply need to know how to counter-steer. Perhaps a lot of bicycle riders were never taught?
Also, the only racers you'll likely find riding an Allez Comp are Cat 5 beginners. Most Allez buyers are recreational riders for whom stiff frames with steep geometry are a detriment.
It is a special one - Specialized "smart weld" aluminium.
See the review - I'm considering one to keep my Litespeed for coffee rides and long ones.
Cheers,
John K
So it looks like they've gotten racier with the Allez Comp since I last had a look. I checked out the Allez DSW geometry and it's within 1mm of the basic Allez, so it seems like the main difference is stiffness.
I've always liked the Allez as a good all-around road bike for riders who are fit but not super-serious, and I've had several friends who owned them (or the Dolce). I don't know the Allez Comp nearly as well. My friends who upgraded from the Allez skipped right over and it into $3-5k range.
I have a couple of friends who own Litespeeds and they really like how they ride. On paper, Titanium offers perhaps the ideal combination of weight, energy efficiency, and ride quality. Unfortunately, they're a bit too short (front to back) for me, otherwise I'd probably own one.
Absolutely beautiful and pure class - Made from rare Reynolds Titanium in the Trek factory.
Cheers,
John K
Edits: 06/16/17 06/16/17
Thanks, I didn't realize that. I'm guessing that was early 90s when he was still quasi-independent? I'll have to look.Hmm... looked through LeMond brochures from the Trek years (1996+) and don't see any Ti frames. Looks like he had Ti frames built from 1990 to 1995 from several different manufacturers.
Edit- found them.
After further research, it looks like the good LeMond Ti bikes were either the ones with the Merlin-built frames Greg raced on in the very early 90s, which presumably sold in very low numbers and are rarer than hens teeth, or the ones Gary Helfrich built at Trek from 2001-2004. Of the latter, it looks like I have the following choices if I want a full Ti frame:
2001-2002 Tete de Course
2001-2003 Victoire
2003-2004 ArriveeThe only downside is that these frames are about 1.5cm shorter than the late 90s models I was coveting. But still longer than average. You've definitely piqued my interest!
Edits: 06/16/17 06/16/17 06/16/17
Litespeed geometry fits me just right. I knew it as soon as I put my leg over it. And all their road frame geometries match. I've thought of upgrading to a newer Litespeed frame - stiffer, lighter, with 1 1/8" steerer so I get a full choice of forks - but, whatever, my 1999 model is still fit for purpose :-) Stiff enough, light enough, definitely strong enough! I've ridden a mates $$$$$ Baum custom and can't feel any remarkable improvements in power transfer ......
LeMond geometry definitely works for some body types - I know a couple of devotees. And those Trek era ones are beautifully made and intricately finished.
Lynskey will do full custom Ti, as will Rivet (Chinese made, properly marketed), and Habanero in Arizona (maybe a bit too cheap and cheerful, but strong and fit for purpose!).
Cheers,
John K
Yes. I appreciate the handling concepts behind the Bokeh, hence my interest. Super stiff is not what I am after, but a balanced, slightly forgiving frame in Alu can be a delightful thing.
That Allez Comp would just beat me up every time I rode it. But I'm a tall, rangy guy so if the bike is to flexible, it saps my strength and loses handling prowess under me.'
Your Litespeed sounds great.
Big J
"... only a very few individuals understand as yet that personal salvation is a contradiction in terms."
Carbon snobs can be that way, plus, it's over 2 or 3 years old, so therefore slow, not aero and completely useless to them :-)
There have been some new studies done lately which perhaps prove that stiffness is not the be all and end all of frames - and that in fact, a frame that has built in flex which works in sympathety with the riders strengths can perform a lot better than a stiffer bike.
i.e. what we all know deep down - specs are crap.
How it feels when you actually ride it is what counts.
Cheers,
John K
I'm a steel sort of a guy.
with lots of money, I'd go steel.
But I'd have to move because at Ocean Beach in San Francisco EVERYTHING rusts, even in the house.
My wife has a late 70's Cinelli which has a paint over chrome frame and it's horribly rusted after 30+ years living near the ocean. She has a newer plastic bike but won't give up the steel bike even though it weighs more and has fewer gears.
This would be my last.
Wife has a Litespeed 'Pisgah' Mt. Bike as her shopping/around town bike and love it.
Pretty much indubitable and it won't rust!
I have a milestone birthday coming up in about 6 months, and I was planning to get a custom frame made so I could build it up. A little research and I'm beginning to realize I might be better off just buying a good bike. Your post is just another data point.
My budget is ~ $5,000 (I have some parts from other bikes/projects) but we know how budgets go...only one direction ;)
First step, find a good bike fitter and nail down the critical dimensions of the frame that suits you and your riding.
Then shop.
If you want something special, there are choices from A to Z!
There are some amazing custom frame manufacturers out there these days - Rivet is an Asian titanium frame builder who has a real dealer network and can build full custom.
Baum is an Aussie custom frame builder, making arguably the best Ti frames in the world right now. Every one is a work of art. 12 months wait.And you need to fly to Oz for the fitting :-)
Cheers,
John K
Most carbon frames are made in Taiwan(sometimes different brands in the same factory). Hit different Cycling on YouTube such as GCN, Bike Radar, Cycling etc.
.
For your budget, you'll find good deals with top quality groups. My Orbea has Dura-Ace Di2 and the new Wilier Zero.7 has e-Tap.
Big J
"... only a very few individuals understand as yet that personal salvation is a contradiction in terms."
I tend to buy late model used or a discontinued model at a discount as a starting point and go from there.Bike above was purchased 2 weeks old from a fool in Utah who bought the wrong bike while in Omaha on business(in 2006). The dealer wouldn't and/or couldn't take it back after the guy rode it for a couple weeks.
I forced the guy to give me the dealers name and I convinced the dealer in Omaha to transfer the warranty to me as original purchaser (Trek has a lifetime warranty on plastic bike frames) and I would rid him of this annoying, unhappy customer who was calling him every day to complain about the bike.
He gladly agreed.
That said, 10+ years later NOTHING on the bike is original. Not even the seat post clamp. Originally a Madone 5.2 Ultegra 6600 it's now DuraAce 7800T (triple) currently running wheels (not pictured here) off of a Madone 6.9 with ceramic bearings added.
Rides like a dream, max investment (mostly used parts for upgrades purchased from people I know who have TOO MANY BIKES and WAY to many parts), maybe $3500 tops. Rides like a dream, usually about 75-100 miles a week on average(25 mi. today). The triple crank and upward pointing stem are a sign that the rider is in his seventh decade on this earth.
That said, I'm looking around now for a good, used Cerv
Edits: 06/13/17 06/13/17 06/13/17 06/13/17
Ain't that the truth...but for me make that the 6th decade.
My neighbor got a Cervelo last year, very nice bike.
About 5 years ago he came into my garage, we hadn't even met yet. He asked if I knew anything about riding bicycles on the street. :) I loaned him one of my bikes and told him to ride for a while and if he liked riding to take his time and get one. Fast forward a few years and he's on his 3rd bike, is much younger than me and must faster.
They've gone too light and too fiddly now.
Cheers,
John K
Big J
"... only a very few individuals understand as yet that personal salvation is a contradiction in terms."
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