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Soooo many choices, what say you guys?
a two part system from a guy who did detailing waaaay back in '85. He demonstrated with applying the first treatment on his on car that removed all the old wax(es) from previous years yet didn't harm the paint. The second was the wax (both were liquids). I think I paid about $40 which back then was fairly hefty compared to say turtle wax which was only a few bucks. But I tell you what-it left my car with a glass-shiny finish. Took a good day to apply/remove/apply/remove and a fairly sore elbow afterwards but well worth it (hey I was young and single and nothing else to do back then). Forget remembering the name of the stuff, far too long ago.
The very best vehicle protection is a good garage. When we bought our house 30 years ago, my wife and I agreed that we could put whatever in the garage as long as the cars fit. We are still parking in the garage. I have neighbors with garages full of junk and they park their cars in the driveway or on the street.
In addition to paint protection, you get into a warm car in the winter, a cool car in the summer, and need no umbrella coming home in a rain storm.
Your wax job will last for a year, even with an inferior wax. Your car will look new after 10 years. I don't understand my neighbors with garages full of junk. They bring in the moving van, load the furniture into the house, load all the stuff they should have thrown away into the garage and then park expensive vehicles out in the sun, wind rain and bird sh#t. Go figure. They probably don't have more than a few hundred dollars worth of junk filling their garages.
My step daughter is home after just graduating college. She drives a fairly new 2013 Nissan Versa. I feel bad she has to park beside the garage in direct Sunlight all day but hey-it's either her or me; and it ain't gonna be me!
I can't recall the car but when a friends Mom got a new one in the late 50s she went by the Fire Station and asked what wax they used to get the Engines so shiny. Answer: Kerosene.
I wonder if todays paint would take to that?
Very old school. This was done back when cars were painted with enamel and before a clear top coat was used. The paint would go dull and "chalk".
It would make the car shiny, but with zero paint protection. Basically used on fleets, like Highway Patrol units.
I doubt anyone would recommend this method today.
Years back (maybe 25 years ago) I was looking at cars on a Sunday, and there at one dealer some guys were washing/wiping down all the cars with kerosene.
So I would guess it is still done.
Meguiar's Tech Wax.
Easy on / off and compatible with all modern finishes.
Too much is never enough
What?! You still actually buy car wax? Have you got a 60 year old Mercedes coupe or a '63 Thunderbird that you show at shows?
Otherwise, you got way too much time on your hands.
my ole' 2003 C240 bought it used in 2005 with 41K miles, today it has 76K miles, not too shabby for 14 California yrs which averages about 20K a yr.
I drive my '03 Saturn station wagon to work daily.
I've used a lot of car waxes with varying results. The suggestion to clean the paint surface before waxing is a sound idea. There are some "claying" gloves and a few sponges by Nanoskin that actually clean like clay but can be washed if dropped on the ground. Regular clay needs to be replaced if it hits the dirt. Check Amazon for brief description.
While I use Nufinish on my plastic bumpers, I use Klasse all-in-one on the body of my Accord. It seems to be expensive but the overwhelming number of users swear by it rather than at it. You should be able to do a mid-size car with just about an ounce or so if you follow instructions. Another plus is that you wipe it right off without any curing time. I also use the Klasse Sealant Glaze as a second step to finish the job. I prefer to do my car correctly once a year rather than every spring and autumn. Check out Amazon or the car detailing supply sites such as Autogeek for more information.
If you feel the need to be obsessive, add Chemical Guys' V7 spray sealant and detailer to your list of chemicals. It's a the best quick detail spray that I've ever spent money on.
My son works at Classic Cars during the summer between semesters. It's all he uses on details.
My 5 year old truck looks like new ans beads water like a banshee. He waxes it once a year and washes it now and then when he needs money.
many years. Pretty good stuff, overall.
There's a lot of good finishes out there, pick one from the advice you get here.
More important is the surface of the paint before apply whatever you decide on. How much time do you want to spend prepping your paint surface? Not much? Then one of the spray bottle "wipe on wipe off" finishes every two or three car washes. fast & easy.
Now if you want to do a good job, after a good wash take a piece of plastic wrap, lay it on a surface of your car & with the flat of your hand move it around. What do you feel? You will be surprised.
Spending 3-4 hrs with a clay bar once a year before applying any finish is prudent.
If you take it to the car wash, you don't care.
Yes, buffers are as diverse as audio gear and get expensive.
I have not ever washed a car with soap and water.
(when I say ever, I mean as an adult owning my own car)
I rinse the car off with a hose, and wipe it off with my HAND while rinsing it, That is it.
Usually I 'wash' my car if it is already wet. Like I just brought it in after driving while it is raining, or snowing. I will then rinse it off. and use a 'California Water Blade' to strip off 95% of the droplets. and park it.
If I wax it, I wax it a day after I washed it as I do.
I usually try to wax once or twice a year when a car is newerish. (first 6-7 years)
When my Contour SVT was old, I just ignore waxing it, and when it hit ten years, I skip washing it.. I have wiped the hood off (of my 10 plus year old car) though, if the hood was wet. LOL
You don't need a buffer. A clay bar to clean the surface first & some elbow grease.
Then some Meguiar's carnauba paste wax.
Yes, drive through car washes are a sin.
I mean a tool. I like that kid that has one. His new one pivots and rotates in two directions. He uses it for compounds, restoring yellow head lights and whatnot. You can't screw up with these super models because it won't get too hot.
Personally, I have no experience in the buffers and am happy to use his elbow grease.
Lightweight, even application. Better than the Makita I had (and lent to a friend many moons ago).
That looks really handy for waxing and whatnot. The kid is a nut and has to have the German super, duper unit. I just checked, it's a Flex XC3401VRG. I wouldn't dare touch it for fear of his wrath.
6-inch random orbital. Mine is much smaller 3-inch. I still have a 6-inch Makita, somewhere. Check out this listing! Must by the "Western Electric" NOS version!
read the ingredients....
Easy to use and does cause water to bead nearly a year later.
Nufinish isn't bad at all. However,I found that it pays off to redo the car in a month. We have been known to have some brutal summer weather in the KC area so the extra effort is rewarded by longevity. One thing to consider is that Nufinish is susceptible to deterioration if your car is frequently parked under trees. Tree sap. such as that from an oak tree, will erase your best efforts if you don't frequently wash your vehicle.
Whatever you do never park under a cottonwood. Ever.
Mulberry trees are the worst. You get both the staining from the berries and bird droppings from the birds eating the berries- double whammy.
...the stuff in the link. Very pleased with the results.
I apply by hand.
Been using it on my MINI for ten years. Paint/finish holding up very well.
reelsmith's axiom: Its going to be used equipment when I sell it, so it may as well be used equipment when I buy it.
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