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In Reply to: RE: One suggestion posted by G Squared on February 05, 2021 at 07:18:39
Place the TV higher on the wall.
It will improve imaging and catch less reflected glare from all but ceiling mounted lighting.
It also kinda reminds of a Drive-In Movie.
Any Damned Fool Knows One Horse Can Run Faster Than Another
1) A mount that will accommodate a larger 75" screen. Great idea. I'm leaning toward buying a 65" TV as that appears to be the sweet spot in terms of pricing. Going up to 75" at this point is large jump in price, at least for OLED. I'm undecided on the big screen tech at this point.
2) I already have an AV stand that is 46" wide so I'll use that one. I could make it more visually appealing with two subwoofers on each side of the stand - or something like that.
3) For TV wall height I want it about eye level, or just a little higher. Eye level so I'm not straining my neck looking up at the screen. A little higher than eye level since I tend to lean back in the sofa. I'll look for a mount that can be tilted downward slightly if I mount it even higher than recommended - which I might do because there will be equipment on top of the AV stand and I don't want that gear to block the screen.
See link below on TV height:
Our TV isn't optimally mounted according to either of the links. We have a 65" TV mounted 65" above the floor on the wall and flat to the wall (not tilted). We sit 14' back from the plane of the screen. We mounted it there because the house was pre-wired for it there. I had worried about neck strain when we mounted it, because I have had neck issues in the past. We have not found it to be a problem. I find that we don't tilt our heads. We pretty much look straight ahead and look slightly upward at the screen. You can try this yourself. Look straight ahead and then look slightly above where you were looking without tilting your head. The closer you are to the TV, the more you would need to look up, but backed up a bit, it isn't the problem I thought it would be. YMMV.
I'll have to take a chair down to the unfinished basement and experiment. In our case, we will be about 8 or 9 feet from the screen. The sofa will be a good 6 feet out from the back wall because my desk will have to go in an area behind the sofa. I'll be moving out of my home office upstairs as my wife will take that over for her quilting hobby.
The closer you are to the TV obviously the angle increases. And of course you may not have any need to mount it any higher. I'm just saying that mounting it slightly higher won't require any neck strain. Your eyes just roll slightly upward. The best optics will be straight on.
Nothing worse than trying to watch a TV mounted above a Fireplace, where your neck is cocked upward for a couple hours..
Also notice that the Bigger your set, the lower the TV is... Matches mine perfectly.
That's the other critical variable in the decision.
Distance to the TV will initially be about 8 or 9 feet because my desk will have to go in an area behind the sofa - until I retire anyway. Wife is taking over my home office space upstairs.
that question was directed to C-T.
I saw you had previously answered that question.
Here you go ...........
I'm in the ball park. Next TV may be slightly larger anyway.
Nice chart. As I mentioned, we'll be sitting about 8 to 9 feet away until I retire from work. Until then, my desk and office area will reside behind the sofa.
Being as close to the screen as we will be, I find it even more important to mount it somewhat close to eye level.
I have a 60 inch Sony And I am about 8 feet back. As this is a rental flat I have the TV on a stand - my eyes are just under the halfway mark up the screen. The TV is used for typing this message, movies/TV and music. I think it's a nice size.
I'd prepare for as big a screen as possible - I like seeing these 90inch and up screens in Hong Kong Shopping malls - 6 figures US for a TV is a bit silly and a bit weird to see such expensive TVs in a mall. But hey - one day they will come down in price and you'll be prepared.
You really don't have to strain your neck to look at a TV mounted higher on the wall unless you are really close to the screen. I thought that you did until I tried it. You just look up slightly. Look at your TV. Look above your TV. Did you tilt your head back? Probably not. Sometimes we can imagine problems that aren't there. It's an audiophile thing.
At my BIL's house above the fireplace and at houses we've rented. No thanks! -- My neck hurt for couple days....
I agree with the Chart than Abe posted a link to....
I think that people that wear glasses may need to tilt their head to get their eyes in the center of the lens. We don't wear glasses and we don't tilt our heads up to watch.
Ours is mounted over the dreaded fireplace and the fireplace is fairly tall due to the ceiling being 12'. No neck issues at all, but people should do what works for them.
I can live with the TV being up high but it's not ideal. I'd prefer it to be closer to eye level. I wear glasses. My wife complained about the TV being up so high so I installed a Dynamic Mount and we pull the TV down for movies.
Our family room TV is above the fireplace and with the room not being very large we sit about 10 feet from the screen.
It was a pain in the butt installing it myself but we got it done. Cable dressing requires special attention.
Our fireplace wall is similar to this guy's setup. Our Dynamic Mount is similar too but ours doesn't swivel left-right.
I have glasses, but usually don't wear them watching TV. I wear them for reading and driving. I put mine on and I can see that I turn my head up more to see the TV, because I'm trying to get my vision lined up with the lenses. No glasses, no problem. I agree that ideally the TV should be viewed straight on if you can set it up that way. At our last house the TV was on a lower stand so we were straight on, but further away which wasn't ideal either. Designing a room, you should be able to optimize it.
Didn't you recently get a big screen TV, or do I have you confused with someone else. I thought you bought an OLED TV. No?
Yes, I got an OLED TV back in March ... -- Not huge 55 inch, but really all I had room for on my 'Audio Wall'...
It sits on the Cabinet about 30 inches high.
Yes, I like your TV in the custom wall unit. I think we were discussing firmware updates or something like that.
I'm looking at LG since they are the only makers of OLED screens if I'm not mistaken. I think the other manufacturers use LG screens. I could be wrong but I think that's still the case. Samsung is pushing their QLED screens which isn't the same thing. OLED is THE state of the art right now and priced accordingly.
John E seems to like Rythmics with Thiels. I think you get a discount for buying 2. The basement will rock.
Warning clipped photo
I was looking at JL Audio but these appear to be 99% geared toward audiophiles as they don't even have LFE inputs.
I'm considering SVS. They appear to be very popular and well reviewed, and they have a broad range of offerings at various price points.
...that there is a stereo pair of SB4000s in my future. My very near future, in fact.
According to their website $200 off if you buy two SB-4000s. You'll have all the bass you ever wanted and more!
I'll need to buy a TV first, leaving less budget for the subs unless I hold off for a while and save up.
Please post when/if you get your subs.
I have heard several SVS subs. They are a great value.
From my understanding, an LFE input bypasses that powered sub's internal low pass crossover which you may need.
I use a pair of twenty year old Eosone subs in the HT with left and right inputs designed to provide lots of flexibility and single sub use. Those in conjunction with matching outputs to provide a high pass signal out for a main's amplifier should you not otherwise have that capability.
In my case, I use the LFE output from the processor and just use one channel input. There's no need for summing discrete left and right content nor providing high passed stereo output. The processor outputs to the Emotiva amp driving the Acoustats use it's high pass crossover.
I set each sub's crossover to the highest setting (200 hz) and use the processor's DSP to fine tune the optimum low pass.
The SVS subs that I was researching have LFE and line level inputs [most brands do from what I've seen]. LFE would use the DSP in the processor or AV receiver (for bass management I believe), while the line level inputs use the crossover controls on the sub.
My two channel integrated amps both have preamp outputs so those could drive the line level inputs on the sub(s). Many subs also have line level outputs so one sub can be daisy chained to another w/o having to use a Y adapter on the preamp outputs from the integrated amp two accommodate two subs.
JL Audio has a great reputation among audiophiles but I was surprised to learn that they don't have LFE inputs - at least the ones I looked at. And, I don't want to spend that kind of money on subs ;-)
JL Audio has a great reputation among audiophiles but I was surprised to learn that they don't have LFE inputs - at least the ones I looked at.
They must expect them to use their crossover!
I went all SVS this time and am completely happy with results. Went with the Ultra towers and Ultra center and a cylindrical sub and will shake the walls if you want it that way. Anthem MRX 720 and sounds great
Nice setup you have there!
I have the main tower speakers - my Thiel CS2.4. I may want subs at some point and possibly a center channel. The back wall is pre-wired for rear speakers. If I go for 5.1 surround, I'll need an AV receiver or a processor with more amps. Not sure what to do yet as I haven't fully thought it out, but the stop gap measure will be 2-channel stereo only or a soundbar.
My main goal is 2-channel audio for my music, and then a way to integrate easily with the TV but keeping it simple enough for my wife. She doesn't like dealing with multiple components. She needs to turn the TV ON and have everything functioning properly.
I'm leaning toward SVS for the subs.
Nice pics! Which brand(s) of gear are you considering around the CS 2.4 loudspeakers? I am looking forward to your next System.
I have a Rogue Cronus Magnum tube integrated amp in storage and my Yamaha A-S1100 solid-state integrated amp in my office at the moment. I'll start with these, and possibly upgrade later. The 100wpc Rogue does a surprisingly decent job with the Thiels. The Yamaha does too but I think I prefer the Rogue. It's been a while since I've had the Thiels in a decent sized room so I'll have to experiment again.
Very nice- Abe,
my 1st CS 2.4 demo featured a Creek 5350 integrated amp and NAD 565 cd player w/ Audioquest cables/cords. I must say that the Creek held its own. I played the music as loud as I wanted w/o clipping. Full presentation, sound and synergy in effect.
The year was 2012. Soundscape in Baltimore MD. I was struck by lightning that Spring day.
2 years later, I would be struck by lightning a second time, auditioning a sweet pair of CS 2.4SE loudspeakers. Audio Excellence in Raleigh NC.
The system featured an Anthem 225 integrated amp and Cary DVD7 or DVD8 spinner. Audioquest cables/cords. Equal synergy with more power via the Anthem. The CS 2.4SE is a touch more revealing than the stock 2.4
More inner detail and nuance, especially, with Jazz music.
Dual subs are nice, but one has worked out well for me. As for the AV, my Anthem, is connected to everything, and works very well, easy to switch between just stereo or various multi channel distribution. Also has a phone app called Playfi, that lets you play from a separate server and select from your music files and folders. Or setup playlists. Very versatile
A little higher than eye level since I tend to lean back in the sofa.
Even more so for me as I don't watch TV bolt upright nor view nearly as closely as the diagram in your link. My butt is about 14' from the screen. Just eyeballing what we like best works out exactly to be the recommendation at the link found below - 65" center for a 65" screen. I don't, however, favor a high above the fireplace approach.
I guess it depends on your choice of expert. ;)
Enjoy your new space - we're definitely loving ours.
edit: Another link I found said that The Society of Motion Picture & Television Engineers requires a viewing angle of less than 35 degrees to top of screen. I calculated a 17 degree angle given the distance.
The link you provided is for the company, "Dynamic Mounting". They make mounts that allow you to pull the TV down to a lower level. Have to be careful in reading their suggestions as some might be based on mounting height vs pull-down height, and how far forward the TV will come out to clear the fireplace.
In any case, I installed a Dynamic Mount above our family room fireplace so we can pull the screen down to eye level when watching movies. For "regular TV" viewing like the news or whatnot we just leave it up high. Fireplaces are not ideal for TV mounting locations so the Dynamic Mount is a great solution.
Mine is well within the 35 degree max guideline. As I type this, I note that my 32" screen center is at eye level as your link recommends. A difference, however, is that I'm two feet away.
Here's an unrelated post where I find the mounting too low. Just looks peculiar.
Yup, the larger screens will be lower to the floor. And a larger screen can be blocked by the tower speakers.... another reason I'm going with 65" instead of something huge. We can probably accommodate a 75" screen but then I'll have to spread the speakers further apart and the one on the right will be closer to the right wall.
I'll mess around with mounting height some more using the paper template once we have the sofa in the room.... or I'll grab a chair and run it down there.
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