 
|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
|
|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
75.25.46.131
Well after over three years I am finally installing the dedicated subpanel and lines in my listening room. Only problem is the panel will not fit because my builders did not use 2x4's for framing, but ripped something larger down to "size". As a result the space is not deep enough by about a fourth of an inch. On the other side is my bedroom wall.Any pro suggestions (besides framing out the panel, which I am trying to avoid) to solve this problem? We thought of cutting some of the wallboard nails that go into the frame from the inside of the wallboard, so it could give a bit. Could also carefully hollow out the wallboard behind it, but the paper backing adds a lot of the strength to gypsum wallboard (at least the panel will be there though).
Any "been there, did this..." help greatly appreciated!
Thanks, Steve
These jobs never are as easy as they seem they should/could be!
Follow Ups:
What you might want to do is something like with the image below. This is what I did with my main panelboard.Instead of trying to jam the panel into a space that won't take it, make a space for it that will fit. The idea is to cut an opening in the drywall between the existing studs to a size that will accomodate the panel and your new finish frame. Once the drywall is cut to the size you want, cut four pieces of wood from 2 X 2 or 2 X 3 that can be nested into the opening, obviously in 4 separate pieces. You need to anchor the frame well, but if you don't have a lot of weight you can go with the frame screwed through from the front of the drywall only.
Build the inset frame of red oak or whatever you can stand to look at. The inset frame should come out enough so that a door on the front can cover all. If it's a bit deeper than you need, it doesn't matter because it will just protrude a bit more. The cove molding or quarter round finishes off the gap nicely. If you use a molding a bit wider, it will cover the drywall screw heads holding the rough frame pieces in place, so you don't have to do any drywall work expect cutting.
Let me know if you need more details!
cover the panel with a pair of Sound Lab A1's. No one will ever notice!Actually, they do make 1/4" drywall if you are that determined and want to recover the entire wall. However, I too think a nice little piece of quarter round molding would look just fine...
.
You can add a second layer of drywall to the entire wall.
...which would also entail redoing the 6" baseboards. I happen to believe a single layer of wallboard is best (talk about a controversy), and the room dimensions as they stand are excellent...24'7" x 15'7" x 9'. If you have a program to analyze room modes you'll see what I mean. Once the fourth wall is completed (the next project...you can see what I mean on my posted room pics), I fully expect the equipment to start levitating and time to stand still ;-)But you never know what tomorrow may bring...
Thanks, Steve
Does your subpanel look like this?What is the wall finish on the subpanel side of the wall?
Some panel covers have a curved edge, meaning curving back to the wall surface. I have encountered this problem a couple times, once the box was about 1/2" proud of the wall, luckily it was a short wall and I simply threw another 1/2" sheetrock on the wall to make up the gap...the other time it was about 1/4", the cover of the panel had a curved edge so when installed there was about 1/8" gap which I simply caulked...problem solved.
...the wall is my existing internal wall, with the usual textured finish. It is already painted. We bought the house new three and a half years ago.Steve
....creating a simple, beveled mounting frame, that would sit just on the existing surface of the drywall? You could use solid wood, for instance, making the frame very attractive. This would furr out the panel, but hide the edges and whatever is behind it.
Just extend the area around the panel enclosure by the necessary thickness needed, the exact out side dimensions of the flush panel cover. Then just paint the edge the same color as the panel cover or the wall. Good chance he will paint the cover to match the wall. After about a month he will forget all about it....
from the OP:Any pro suggestions (besides framing out the panel, which I am trying to avoid) to solve this problem?
If you have received high $ quotes (more than you see fit to pay) for the frame then make it yourself.
My understanding of "framing out" is customarily performed with studs. My suggestion of framing the panel is via the use of narrow molding. Steve only needs 1/4" or so of relief.
My understanding of "framing out" was a 'picture frame' around the subpanel, which I thought the OP was trying to avoid. Perhaps he will respond and end the horrific war of syntax that we seem to be entering.
...to do this. Reason being that the subpanel door already sticks out, so it would end up sticking out, off the wall surface, just that much more. This will make it more obvious if I paint it, or if I cover it with a frame or acoustic item will make it more difficult to deal with, at least potentially.Thanks, Steve
Nt.
Your idea to carve away some of the back side of the bedroom drywall has merit, though you face one certainty and one possibility:A-major pain in the ass
B-potential to punch through to the finish side while carving. A drywall repair (though minor) will then become one of your new skills.
Conversely, or in conjunction with the above, use a hacksaw blade (or Sawzall if you're a tool guy) to cut any drywall nails off on either side of the subpanel, up to several inches above and below. Rip furring strips of the correct thickness to flush out drywall to the subpanel, and force them between the studs and back of the drywall. A couple of drywall nails, close enough to the subpanel to be hidden by the cover, will hold the furring strips in place.
Don't cut these furring strips so thick that it's obvious that there's a huge bulge in the wall. The panel cover standing a bit proud of the drywall will be less noticeable than a mountainous hump.
Also, quick-dry spackle and texture-in-a-can have become my very good friends on projects similar to these. See (B).
You could replace the wallboard behind the panel with a piece of hardboard.
...patch it, tape, mud, paint. Unless I don't understand the plan? I am trying for ideas that would keep the other side intact. But you are right that if I went into the gypsum a ways (from the inside)I could patch over with thin wood and gain depth without much of a strength sacrifice. I wish the wall board was 5/8 instead of 1/2...that would help a bit with such a plan!Thanks for the input, Steve
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors:
Top of Page ]
[ Contact Us ]
[ Support/Wish List ]
[ Copyright © 2025, Audio Asylum, all rights reserved ]
