 
|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
|
|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
Calling all Tannoy Prestige users. What do you folks use to polish your speakers if you also consider the Tannoy Wax outrageously expensive. Or do you wax them at all. Has anyone tried commercial products like lemon or citrus oil?
Follow Ups:
Gee, 3 days later and this post is almost off the forum already.
B&W recommends Scott's Liquid Gold. Really tough to get off once applied. Also have to be careful about getting on drivers and surrounds. Otherwise works good.
I contacted Scotts and they told me their Liquid Gold contains petroluem distillates, not linseed oil and NOT to use it on loudspeakers. Maybe not good for wood??? Maybe because I mentioned the rubber and foam surrounds used on speaker drivers.
It contains orange oil, carnauba and beeswax. What I like about it is that 24-48 hours after application/buffing the color of the finish is not altered (darkened). It looks a little bit darker right after application, but this goes away in a few days.I'm not a woodworker, just noticed that many antique restoration shops used it (it was on their work tables anyway) when I worked in the ID industry.
I'd stick with Tannoy's wood wax, a jar should cost around 30.-Sterling Pounds direct from Tannoy, UK. It's also more effective
than any other alternative and it really has a mirror-like shine
afterwards..AP
Hi, Pharaoh,The jar that came with the speakers were about the size of my wife's sample sized facial cream. Unless you were talking about a much bigger jar, there is no way that jar could last more than a single application for my Westminster Royal.
How big is the jar that you were talking about? Did you buy it directly in UK?
Yes, the jar is small but you'd need to get 2 of them at least for the Royals. One Jar was enough for a pair of Edinburghs and also
for a pair of Guy.R Fontain Memory's.. A friend of mine bought 2 jars
from Tannoy UK through a travelling friend of his.You could always e-mail Tannoy UK to get a much precise recommendation
for quantity of jars needed for your Royals.Best,
AP
NT
For regular polish cut the linseed oil 50% with turpentine.
Char...
Turpentine is a solvent, not an oil. It has traditionally been used to stretch the "mileage" of linseed oil which is generally much more expensive. On very hard exotic woods or certain finishes where absorption is slow or if the weather is humid, the turpentine can have unsavory effects if it sits on the finish too long, even though mixed with linseed oil.I would advise against doing this. Use pure boiled linseed oil, and no additives.
And swedes may use lemon oil now, but 200 years ago they used linseed oil like everyone else. Lemon oil is lighter and penetrates quicker, but it also dries out faster as well. So you'll pay more and have to do it more frequently if you choose it over linseed, and the only thing you get for this is a better smell for a day or two, if that matters. :)
but he is a merry prankster, isn't he? Perhaps a knowledgeable woodworker too.But my father, a master carpenter who learned from master Swedish carpenters 60 years ago, swears that the only thing that should be put on wood is PURE lemon oil, which is difficult to find. I'[m quite certain orange oil is good too. Anything with petroleum products will eventually dry out and probably crack the finish/wood. I'm not sure if Johnson's, or other waxes, are petroleum based. The cracking won't occur overnight or even after months. It can take time but it will happen.
Yup, Gramps taught me and he had the collective wisdom of previous generations. Petrochemical stuff which is in most commercial "polish" is bad. Johnson's is just wax. Antiquax is nothing but beeswax and carnauba. No lemon oil in my family tree. Now I'll have to find some and try it.
Fella named Jeff Jewitt is a Conservator, wrote a book on hand applied finishes. Contracts to museums. Check him out. Did a Google search for wax and Smithsonian didn't find much but they have the finest collection of 18th and 19th century antiques. Wonder what they use?
Beeswax and carnuba certainly aren't petroleum. Dad was most insistent about smearing "gasoline" on finishes.Thanks for the info.
Pure lemon oil has become a little easier to find now that the aromatherapists have discovered a use for it: Try your local health food store. I've had very good results with the pure lemon oil sold for that purpose, and as a bonus, it's supposed to make me cheerful.I use pure lemon oil on some raw woods that are already oily by nature (ebony, etc.), but I recommend against it on very thin veneers, where excess oil can leach underneath. In those cases, beeswax is best, I think, and it has a pleasant aroma of its own.
In any event, and as others have stated here, stay away from any products containing silicone: It's death to good wood.
Most of the "oils", lemon, orange, cherry are best left for Italian ices. Most use silicone which gums things up and some have detergents which will harm the wood.
Wood, BTW, isn't "thirsty". It's dead. It used to be "thirsty" when it was alive, but it was killed to make your speakers. Also, just like sweet, dear departed Auntie Maude, it doesn't need to be "fed".
What wood does need is to be protected. Actually, the finish needs to be protected. And the best protection is cleanable, restorable and removable. That means wax.
Wax can be $2.75 a tin Johnsons Paste Wax, the Minwax product Lowe's and Depot have, or some of the boutique stuff you get at the specialty stores like Woodcraft. Butcher's Wax, Antiquax, Bison, all good. Some have tints so watch out for that. I use Johnson's exclusively. It's durable, satiny and easy to buff out.
Before applying fresh wax to old finishes of dubious origin, clean the finish with about 2 drops of dishwashing detergent in at least a pint of warm water. Apply the solution sparingly with white cloths until they come away still white. Get's rid of atmospheric contaminants you don't want to seal in.
Now put a blob of wax the size of a big gumball in the center of a cotton rag or 'Handi-Wipe'. Fold the corners in so the blob is covered. Put this little package inside another piece of cloth. Now you can dispense the wax evenly onto the speaker without having to dip back into the tin every few seconds. The friction of wiping the wax on the wood creates enough heat to make the wax flow nicely. Just as an area begins to haze, buff it out. If you wait to long. it's too much work. Too soon and the volatile compounds, probably mineral spirits, in the wax will just push it around and it won't penetrate. You'll find what's just right for a given brand.
Oh, and put a few thousand shares of S.C. Johnson in your 401K; they also make Saran Wrap, invented those stamps you don't have to ink and 15 or 20 other household name products.
BTW, just how expensive is this Tannoy Wax?
Thanks for such an elaborated explanation. I think I would experiment a little. Just got back from Home Depot with some pretty fancy wax (Howard Citrus Shield). I want to give it a try.The Tannoy wax is about $5 each jar but each jar is so small it lasts no more than one and half speakers each time.
fancy wax cannot match boiled linseed oil for natural beauty and long-term preservation, if that matters. Peter Gunn is absolutely correct, IMO.Whatever, good luck.
~Jay
"wood isn't thirsty, it's dead".That is not empirically true. Aside from being an audio nut, I'm also a cabinetmaker and what most people don't seem to realize is that most of the wood on ANY tree (that is a living tree) is already "dead" as you called it. Only the very outer sap wood is alive and growing, and as a new outer ring grows every year, another inner ring "dies". The sapwood, being saturated and conducting fluids, is soft and cannot support the mass of the tree. That is why the bulk of the interior "dies" and gets hard. I would also hesitate to use the word dead. It is not able to grow anymore, but it still can absorb moisture quite readily. So since it is exactly the same in fine furniture as it is in the living tree, I for one dislike using the word dead to describe it.
Mainly because "dead" things decay. When in the tree, the bark and sap layer protect it. When it's a speaker cabinet, oils and finish protect it. I also have to disagree with your constant waxing. Unless you take previous coats off, the constant application of wax will lead to buildup over time which will attract more dirt and leave the finish looking dark and poor. I would sooner recommend the application of boiled linseed oil twice a year to repeated waxings.
Wax will not stop the wood from drying out, which will cause cracks and in time invite rot. Wood needs to be oiled. It's best to put it on heavy, let it stand, and then wipe it off. But never throw any rags wiped with linseed oil in a garbage can, or your house will go up in flames. Lay them outside in the grass or on a rock until hard and dry. Then you can toss them with the trash.
I have many wooden planes, some which are nearly 250 years old, and back then the first thing done is to soak them in a barrel of linseed oil. I still oil them with it 2-3 times a year, I use them in my work daily, and they still look like they did the day they were made.
Also, all finishes (except shellac) are oil based, and re oiling the finish replenishes the oil lost to evaporation over time and helps keeps it elastic. If it dries too much, when the wood expands and contracts during the seasons the finish will then crack. Wax again will not prevent this. Wax is a quick fix bandaid to make something dingy look shiny. It is not a long term solution.
And use boiled linseed oil, not raw. And again, watch those rags, and that's not a joke. They get buried in a trash can, they can self ignite. And no, your speakers won't catch fire from the oil.
It is thick compared to oils you may be used to. Apply it with a soft cloth in circles with light pressure. (and not so thick it runs) Let it stand about 15 minutes then rub the speakers with a dry cloth to remove what didn't soak in. They will be glowing in appreciation, and certainly not dead.
re lemon oil. Obviously you're knowledgeable, and anyone who uses 250 year old planes has opinions I trust. Your point about varnishes being oil based makes a lot of sense.Have you used lemon oil? If so, how do you find it?
I only use lemon oil on my turntable. I still have my AR ES-1 from 1988 and since it is cherry and linseed oil can prematurely darken cherry I only use lemon oil on it. (sunlight also darkens cherry significantly so be careful having a speaker with a side facing a window when the other doesn't get direct light. It could wind up two tone)Lemon oil is fine, and it penetrates fast, but I also find it evaporates fast as well. If you are going to use it you ought to give your speakers a thorough wipe every two months. That's how often I do my table. (well, 2-3 months) Linseed oil can last up to 6 months so in that respect it's easier, but then anything that makes you clean your stuff more often can't be all bad either.
So lemon oil works just as well, but it costs more and needs more frequent application. It has the plus of smelling nicer too. But I would still at least use linseed oil once a year. It cures in the wood and regular use, well, just look at the patina of very old and well made furniture. That's what years of linseed use does. Any furniture, say a table made in 1820, would have been rubbed with nothing but linseed oil until after WWII, and the patina it has comes from that.
As for varnishes, people seem to think once it's on and cured it's all over. Oh no. A percentage of the oil stays uncured, and that gives the varnish the elasticity it needs to stay where it was out as the wood eternally moves. If it is allowed to dry out too much, it will crack and begin peeling. That's why when you oil you should put it on thick but not so thick it runs, and give it time to soak in. Listen to your gear for half and hour, then get up and wipe it in and off. The cabinets will actually get better looking over time if you do this.
Have fun, and watch those rags.
my father will agree with your notes. They make a lot of sense. He probably recommended lemon oil to me because at the time I was far less handy (and patient), and he probably figured linseed oil was over my depth.Thanks for all the interesting information. One has to respect a true craftsman - unless one is an idiot.
How do you feel about using burlap to apply/wipe the linseed oil? I like the idea of the rough finish picking up gunk, but so far my Dyna A-25s have sprung back to life using plain worn out T-shirts. The quality of the veneer work on these speakers is something.
Burlap is a loose weave and almost "dirty" type of fabric which will leave behind a lot of small particulate from itself. On top of that it's too coarse for a furniture grade finish. This is not a good thing to be using.A worn out but clean T-shirt is much better. But remember to let it air dry otside before you throw it away if you are using linseed oil.
nt
First off, be carefull with tung oil. It has a toxicity level to it and for me at least just smelling it for a few minutes gives me a massive headache. But that varies from person to person.Tung oil is generally used for exotic hardwoods (teak etc..) which accept it more readily than they sometimes do linseed oil. If your speaker is made from exotic hardwoods (the most noteable being rosewood) you may get longer lasting results from teak oil. It is much more expensive however, and be careful it doesn't have other additives in it, as it used to be hard to find "straight" teak oil short of a woodworking specialty shop. Who knows what home depo carries anymore though.
Some oils may last in the wood longer, but as far as looks go they all give the same results basically so for price and ease I always used linseed oil. You may even want to rub it in with your hands in winter. The friction causes it to penetrate faster, and it will also soften cracked and dry winter hands. I just much prefer it.
Pure tung oil is derived from the Tung nut. I have read time and time again that it is not toxic. The aroma should be nutty and should not cause headaches. Are you sure you're not thinking of so-called "Tung Oil Finish" which is basically diluted varnish? Pure tung oil is expensive (around $10/pint), takes days (not hours) to polymerize, and is pretty much only available at real wood working stores. I find it does wonders for all types of wood (ordinary red oak but especially birch and maple are stunning when oiled!). Tung oil penetrates, darkens the grain like a stain, and litterally lets you see into the wood. It's a very 3D looking and striking finish. Tung oil finish just looks like, well, a plastic coating sitting on top of the wood. Use it for what it is - a wiping varnish.I would also consider "Boiled" Linseed oil to be very toxic, unless it's labled as food grade. Most "boiled" linseed oil is not boiled, but has chemicals and heavy metals added to make it polymerize (aka Japan Dryer). True boiled linseed oil is usually sold as "Salad Bowl Oil". I've also heard it can be obtained as "Omega-3" at health food stores.
I think it's more like a peanut allergy, which I don't have, but pure tung oil bothers me for some reason. It might have something to do with the stint I did working for Chemlawn in my youth. After that I found I had a lower tolerance to all kinds of things. I only mentioned it as I had heard a small percentage of other people have been bothered by tung oil but in their case they might have been using the adulterated kind you mention. It just merited mentioning.I also said it because as you say the pure stuff is hard for the layman to get, and they might get something they think is it and is not.
Yes, most boiled linseed oils have metallic dryers but I have known people in the trade who have used it for years (and still do) and they are very old and have shown no side effects from it. The same can be said from eating off of non stick teflon pans for that matter. I don't think anyone needs to get a canary before they start oiling anything with it :)
I just think linseed oil does a very adequate job at it's price point. Certainly tung oil is good, but it ought to be for what it costs. The pure stuff is close to $50 a gallon as well, which is fairly steep to say the least.
But should anyone reading this think to use raw linseed oil instead, don't. It won't dry for a hell of a long time, and when it does it gets very tacky.
nt
If it's an oiled finish, then pure lemon oil will work well. If there's a clear semi-gloss or gloss finish, good ol' Lemon Pledge or any good paste wax like Johnson's will be fine.
R.Hz,For semi-glossy or glossy surfaces get a spray can (pump spray) of Martin Guitar Polish. One bottle should last you a long time. And it doesn't leave a sticky residue, like Lemon Pledge.
Good for hardwoods and soft. You can get it at your local music shop. Or From Elderly Music or online from MusiciansFriend.com
With a little care these wooden things can last a pretty long time.
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors:
Top of Page ]
[ Contact Us ]
[ Support/Wish List ]
[ Copyright © 2025, Audio Asylum, all rights reserved ]