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Hi, I am gathering parts for the RIAA PC6 board mod for PAS preamps. My question is (and I am new to this) what voltages/tolerances do I need for these caps? And what is the best source for such caps? I have scoured Mouser, parts express, even radio shack's website and my local electronics store and the only place I can find these is eBay, usually from an international seller. I must be missing something?
I have bought the following:
2M OHM (1/2 watt) resistors
95.3K ohm (1/2 watt) resistors
470pF silver mica capacitors (500V 2%)
but I haven't bought the following yet:
820pF polystyrene capacitors
2200 pf polypropylene capacitors
Thanks for any advice!
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...service from this family owned business. Shipping to the U.S. is quick as well. And the prices are right.
Where the heck does one source the not-so-common passive electronic componants for projects like this?
Digikey, Mouser, Newark, Just Radios, Parts ConneXion, eBay, HiFi Collective in the U.K, Michael Percy, Sonicraft... Google search.Sometimes you might have to combine values to arrive at the value you want. Some parts values just aren't available anymore.
Edits: 02/19/15
Excellent, thank you!
You really might want to read this, first:
Wow! This has been the most challenging (confusing) unit to wrap my head around, I think because there is so much lore and so much written about/done to this little preamp.
So I guess Audio Regen and Curcio don't agree on this one. I respect both sources, though it looks like AR's (published) research is more exhaustive on this point.
I'll just drop in my tubes4hifi stock circuit replacement boards and run them for a while unmodded and see what it sounds like.
Thanks for that link!
I should add that the challenge (confusion) for me is mostly about what mods to do and at what point I'm not listening to a Dyna PAS. For me, I think the Z-mod is a step too far. I'll stick with stock boards and do my little jumper/clipper mods (tone control, output loading) along with replacing some off-the-board passives with same spec (Volume/balance pots, caps, resistors) and run with it for a while. Maybe the selector switch down the road.
I think if you retain the basic circuit topology of the original, you're listening to a Dynaco. That is, even if you excise the bells and whistles, like the tone controls and such, and even if certain enhancements are added, like increasing the capacitance in the power supply or if individual parts are upgraded in quality.I'd say it ceases to be a Dynaco if the PC boards are replaced with a different circuit or if you go to a different kind of power supply.
Edits: 02/19/15 02/19/15
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