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In Reply to: RE: CD-R Burn Quality and Laser Noise During Playback posted by Todd Krieger on May 25, 2017 at 03:19:14
The only CD player in use now is on my 2001 Honda, but I found that manually selecting the lowest possible burn speed in the software improved quality and eliminated read errors.
That is until they get scratched from the changer and admittedly rough handling. :)
For several years I have used a dedicated CD duplicator (Teac CDW-D11); no software, no external drives--as simple as you can get. Using Memorex black CD-R, I have never had any failures of any kind. The copy is always at least as good as the original--and many times slightly better.
I always had great results with my HHb CDR-850, a standalone unit that burned CDRs in real time. While making digital copies of DATs and CDs at 1x speed was certainly more time consuming than burning CD-Rs via a computer + external or external drive at 4x, 8x, 16x or whatever, the HHb was far more reliable than all the my computer-based setups I experimented with. In fact, I still have a bunch of CD-Rs I burned 15 years ago (yikes!) via the HHb and they play fine.
"The copy is always at least as good as the original--and many times slightly better."
I also found this to be the case - particularly if the original disc had (correctable) errors. Same effect as ripping to a hard drive. The duplication process can effectively reduce the read-induced jitter errors and you have created a "cleaner" version of the data (by virtue of the error correction) which can be easier for a subsequent player to read. Those Black CD-Rs were also considered very good for audio IIRC. I settled on the Verbatim/Mitsubishi AZO discs.
"Beauty is Truth, Truth Beauty.." Keats
Can't say that I had similar success with dedicated duplicators..... The copies usually sounded noticably worse. The problem is these things cannot be tweaked. Can't try a different drive or different software.
The Teac is not a bargain basement copier. It has two very substantial CD drives, which are mechanically isolated, and a very heavy duty power supply. No need for any software-- read the CD, send the data to memory and copy to the deignated drive. Can't get simpler than that.
What's the model number for this Teac duplicator? If I can get one cheap enough used, I might try one.
These are all 11-13 years old. Back in the days before there were vastly superior options that involve NOT burning CD-Rs. Just saying.
I was trying to make the point that copies don't sound worse than the originals. In terms of today's "vastly superior" options, not everyone agrees. If the conccept is valid, being 11 years old doesn't alter its validity.
Redbook played back on a multi-bit, NOS, filterless DAC sounds better than the equivalent hi-rez download to these ears.
"The only CD player in use now is on my 2001 Honda, but I found that manually selecting the lowest possible burn speed in the software improved quality and eliminated read errors."
I used to believe this to be the case..... I later realized that 4x and 16x burns are indistinguishable. To where I would fail an ABX test if I were to try one. The difference in playback problems was also close to nil.
years ago. Higher speed rips wouldn't play consistently.
Can't say how my current Blu-Ray burner would work.
I'm tempted to try a Plextor Premium drive.... It's a CD-only (no DVDs) drive that some claim makes better CD-R copies than any DVD-capable drive..... The catch is they're very expensive......
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