|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
24.63.247.173
In Reply to: RE: 40W Soldering Iron enough for Cardas CPBP Binding Posts posted by kgturner on March 07, 2021 at 18:49:57
Personally, I have had a difficult time soldering (iron set to 850 deg. F.) to the Rhodium plating. In my opinion (YMMV), it works best to remove the rhodium coating with a small file to expose the copper, then flux, and then solder on the cable.
Follow Ups:
Right. My experience as well.
The copper post aren't much better. A little trickier to solder than one would expect.
Agreed. I've been using the premium CCGR's for 10+ years now. At first they took forever to solder (I dial the temp up to 740/750 for these). What I learned to do is take a small abrasive Dremel bit (on a Dremel MINI MITE) to remove the plating from the cup. While the binding posts still take a good amount of time to heat up due to their mass, the overall soldering time is reduced applying solder to the exposed copper substrate.
Do you use an flux as a soldering aid?
Too much is never enough
On certain parts and when I tin stranded wire, I apply a tiny amount of flux. The Cardas eutectic solder I use has a rosin core, so not much is needed. I do not, however, use any flux on the binding posts....the 'naked' copper after Dremeling allows the solder to flow easily after the post reaches the 'right' heat.
I use nothing BUT Kester.
And even the thinnest has a 'core'.
From this list you can find something for every use you can imagine.
Too much is never enough
FAQ |
Post a Message! |
Forgot Password? |
|
||||||||||||||
|
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors: