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In Reply to: RE: power cord trick posted by bcowen on July 04, 2017 at 08:01:07
I'm not quite sure what the trick is supposed to be, bcowen.
BTW, I notice you enjoy the gold Furutech FI-11(G) set of AC connectors. I find they mate very well with the Oyaide Black Mamba V2 bulk power cable. Priced at $45.76 per meter, a 3 meter bulk length cable is enough to build two 5 foot power cords with. It's an outstanding bulk power cable for DIY projects, especially at a cost of only $68.64 per 5 foot power cord.
Very good synergy when plugged into a gold Oyaide SWO-GX AC outlet, which is a bit finicky to mate with various AC plugs, IME. The Oyaide SWO-GX AC outlet features gold plated phosphor bronze contacts, while the gold plated Furutech FI-11M(G) AC plug features pure copper blades. IMO, the synergy of the two provides the best of both worlds, with the Furutech FI-11(G) AC connectors providing a very dense tonality, while the Oyaide SWO-GX AC outlet provides good dynamics at the frequency extremes, with notable treble energy and a big bottom-end without sounding ill-defined. Warm sounding but without sounding too lush, to my ear. Definitely on the warm side of things, but very coherent from top-to-bottom. YMMV
The Oyaide Black Mamba V2 is reference quality.
Thanks for that info, Duster. I'll have to order some Black Mamba and give it a try. I'm currently using the 11-gauge Neotech NEP-3002 III with the Furutech FI-11G connectors on both ends between the Furutech GTX-D (R) wall outlet and the modded Furutech e-TP60 distribution box. Although I would have preferred the 10-gauge NEP-3001 wire, it was a bit too big in diameter to fit in the FI-11 plugs (at least from what the published dimensions show). I played around with several DIY attempts in this application, and although it required me to admit my DIY efforts didn't measure up, the Neotech-based cord beat every one of those efforts. I haven't had any motivation to mess with it since, but the Oyaide wire looks pretty interesting, and is certainly priced right as I need less than a meter for this application.
I can only assume the silver plated strands are intended to tune the presentation of the power cord, perhaps due to the PVC dielectric which tends to sound a bit too slow and warm vs. a modern polymer with a lower dielectric constant. Also, a braided shield in addition to the aluminum/Mylar foil shield tends to darken the presentation and affect dynamics. The Black Mamba V2 only features a very thin pure copper foil shield which does not affect the presentation as much as over-aggressive shielding tends to do. Also, the polymers that Black Mamba V2 are not only selected for dielectric quality, they are also chosen for beneficial resonance control characteristics.
What's most innovative to me is the strand lay is optimized in order to avoid the detrimental affect of a typical stranded conductor with an ordinary strand lay. Another thing to note is since Oyaide's source of OCC wire was discontinued, they worked with another Japanese cable manufacturer to design a unique product that performs just as well as OCC according to their marketing information. The performance of the Black Mamba V2 proves its worth, as it's the best sounding power cord product I've experienced other than the VH Audio AirSine power cord.
Unlike previous Oyaide power cords featuring a thin copper foil shield such as the Tunami and PA-23 power cords, the Black Mamba V2 features a drain wire, which I assume is intended to be grounded at the AC plug, and left unconnected at the IEC end, which is what I chose to do. BTW, the Black Mamba V2 is a joy to terminate, since the low-mass dielectric and cable jacket are very easy to strip.
The DIY Oyaide Black Mamba V2 terminated with Furutech FI-11(G) AC connectors was built to use with a Zerozone 50VA linear power supply. I plan to replace the stock IEC inlet with a spare Furutech FI-10(G) IEC inlet I have, but I'll need to implement an inline fuse holder since the stock IEC inlet features an integral fuse holder. I considered the Furutech FI-03 IEC inlet with an integral fuse holder, but the Furutech FI-10(G) is a better quality IEC inlet, and ready to use without further expense.
When I re-did the wiring in the Furutech e-TP60, I replaced the stock IEC socket with the Furutech FI-06(G). Even though the stock IEC was a nice gold-plated Furutech connector itself, I wanted the screw termination rather than the solder lugs. Wish I'd known about the FI-10 back then, as it looks to have the same cutout dimensions as a standard IEC socket. The FI-06 is slightly larger, and required some Dremel-ing on the case to get it to fit. I'm happy with the result, but it would have been a lot easier with the FI-10. :)
Image: Radio Shack 270-0739 Surface Mount Fuse Holders
I think the stock Furutech IEC inlet for the Furutech e-TP60 is their entry level model. It sounds similar to a nickel plated brass IEC inlet but without the sonic signature of nickel involved. Essentially a warmer sound with more natural image outlines that's quite easy to identify as being comparatively beneficial. Obviously better sounding than a nickel plated IEC inlet, IME.
I would expect the effort you put into the upgrade was worthwhile, bcowen. The Furutech FI-06(G) features pure copper contacts, so it may be a superior sounding design vs. the Furutech FI-10(G) featuring copper alloy contacts (phosphor bronze, IIRC), but not necessarily. Pure copper vs. phosphor bronze (and brass for that matter) can be selected for unique sonic signatures that some might find more satisfactory for any given application.
BTW, I found this NOS Radio Shack surface-mount fuse holder (shown above) that looks to be perfect for my Furutech FI-10(G) IEC inlet installation project. The solder tabs and small footprint are perfect for the task. I'll simply adhere the plastic base to the side of the enclosure with silicone adhesive and be done with it.
Are you sure you won't negate the benefits of the FI-10 by running the incoming power through the nickel or tin plated, magnetic steel contacts of that fuse holder? The Furutech FI-03 is only $15 in gold or $19 in rhodium, and both platings are on the same copper alloy (I think) as the FI-10. Solder lugs instead of screw terminations, but you'll have to solder to the RatShack fuse holder anyway.
I understand what you are saying, but the external fuse holder features tin plated brass contacts, not nickel plated magnetic steel, and won't degrade performance any greater than a typical fuse holder that all audio components must have. I'll simply be moving a fuse holder placement from one location to another rather than stepping on the performance of the Furutech FI-10 of which I already own and would prefer to use vs. the FI-03 if given a choice.
I'll put it this way: If I were given the opportunity to design an audio component from scratch, I would not implement an IEC inlet with an integral fuse holder, I would choose to use an external fuse holder like I'll do in this case. That said, if I didn't already have an orphaned FI-10 that's ready to be installed, I would be more willing to consider a new FI-03 for the application. Thanks for sharing your thinking and comprehensive ideas about the issue, bcowen!
TIN PLATED BRASS!??!?!?!?
Isn't that like stopping by Clem's Gas 'N Grub and filling up your Ferrari with 4-year old 87 octane?
Just kidding. :)
It's always nice to use what you already have instead of having to go buy something. I should learn how to do that. :)
The Radio Shack fuse holders arrived. The design features a substantially rigid polycarbonate structure with well-made tinned brass contacts as good as most HQ quick-disconnect tabs I've come across.
If my memory is correct, the "alpha" designation refers to their cryogenic treatment of the copper (or whatever metals they may use in their various products).
If you must use a fuse, then this particular configuration would be the way to go, rather than the cheap(er) Radio Shack part, made with inferior metallurgy. Duster's basic idea is a good one....your idea bumps it up a good amount, and for only a few dollars more.
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