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In Reply to: RE: Supra ZAC Toslink Cable Report posted by Duster on March 30, 2017 at 13:27:02
Thanks for the nice review, Duster.
Question: with your experience with Toslink cables, have you heard any changes with break-in?
I just got one of the Lifatec cables. First Toslink cable I've ever played with, so I'm a newbie. Plugged it in last night, swapping it in place of the Oyaide DR-510 S/PDIF cable. Tried it first between the transport and Remedy re-clocker, and got kind of a mixed bag -- some things better, some things worse. Then I put the Oyaide back between the transport and Remedy, and ran the Lifatec between the Remedy and Cary DAC. One of them wasn't happy with that arrangement -- got nothing but some intermittent popping sounds out of the speakers. So I pulled the Remedy out, and went straight from the transport to the DAC with the Lifatec. Yuck. The Remedy clearly improves things. So it's back in, and I'm wondering if things will improve if the Lifatec lives between the transport and Remedy for a few hundred hours. Logic would kinda dictate that break-in wouldn't be a factor with a glass cable, but logic doesn't always apply in this hobby. :)
Follow Ups:
I really liked my Lifatec. My system leans warm even on digital and it raised the top a touch and with more detail than my coaxial. Either transport to DAC or Music server to DAC. DAC is a MF Trivista with a dead transport
ET
"If at first you don't succeed, keep on sucking till you do suck seed" - Curly Howard 1936
Lifatech gives you genuine glass fiber at prices you can afford, costing only around 30% more than the Supra ZAC, I think.
I have sensed no break-in occurring over a lot of listening for 3 weeks now.
I'm quite impressed with the Lifatec's quality. Very nicely manufactured. I have nothing to compare it to sonically, so I simply don't know what's responsible for the mixed results (so far). Could well be a poor implementation of the optical converter in any one of the 3 components involved. And it could be that coax just sounds better in my setup. I'm giving things time to break in and settle down, and I'll evaluate again thereafter.
I dont think my Lifatek changed much with time. You are using a transport which was hotter on top for my setup as well. That seemed to be your issue, too much on top. Does the transport have safety ground? If so try it lifted.
ET
"If at first you don't succeed, keep on sucking till you do suck seed" - Curly Howard 1936
There wasn't any real issue (on initial listen) with too much top end. A little more detail up top, but not overblown. Bass was a bit deeper, and overall macrodynamics improved a touch. But what seemed to lose ground was the harmonic texture and low level dynamic shadings, which are both important to me. I wasn't expecting the cable to change much with play time, but with Duster's suggestion was giving the optical electronics some time to break in as they had never been used before. Haven't had a chance to listen since, but will this weekend.
IIRC, you once had a mixed impression of the Lifatec Silflex Glass Toslink, Awe-d-o-file. If so, you might like to post insights about your current perspective, since it might be of help to bcowen.
It could be that the presentation of a glass Toslink cable may take some time to get accustomed to, since the interface does seem to have a unique sonic signature that is different than a digital coaxial cable interface.
IME, the Lifatec Silflex Glass Toslink cable does sound very streamlined which might reveal other issues that should be addressed if the previous 75 ohm digital cable sounded somewhat warm and full-bodied in comparison, which might be a preferable option. This issue being pertinent if a listener has an ability to use either type of interface for their application, since if given a choice I prefer a high-performance 75 ohm or 110 ohm interface vs. digital optical. The underpinning reason being that many types of audio applications only provide a Toslink output for a digital interface, so one has to work with that limitation. That is the case in my audiophile situation.
via the SB it was preferred via the transport a little hot but on an older lifeless recording it was the ticket on the transport too
ET
"If at first you don't succeed, keep on sucking till you do suck seed" - Curly Howard 1936
Not the same kind of break-in/burn-in of electrical cables, but I think the Toslink receiver circuitry may need to break-in if never operated under load, which might affect the the presentation of the DAC in some manner that is improved after a number of hours of operation...
And I put it down to the toslink circuitry not having been used.It's been a few weeks now and the toslink sounds particularly vivid with the Lifatec glass fibre cable, with greater differentiation between recordings than previously (Blue Jeans Cat 6A cable, I2S connection between transport and dac). Most unexpected, especially given my past experience of toslink (muffled dynamics, poor definition, vague tonality).
Big J
"... only a very few individuals understand as yet that personal salvation is a contradiction in terms."
Edits: 04/19/17
The Lifatec Silflex Glass Toslink cable sounds very fast and detailed. It may sound pretty ruthless if there are other aspects of an audio system that sound a bit edgy. It sounds best if a system provides good image density, IME.
Hadn't thought about the circuitry. Never been used in any of the 3 components. I'll let it play some and see what happens. Thanks!
Another issue I find is that any make/model Toslink cable interface does not sound as good as it could unless it's first connected to a Monarchy Audio DIP (Digital Interface Processor), then the Monarchy Audio DIP is connected to a DAC via S/PDIF digital coaxial cable or AES/EBU balanced digital cable interface. Otherwise, a digital optical Toslink signal tends to sound lackluster, dull or brittle in some cases. The Monarchy Audio DIP reclocks the S/PDIF signal, reduces jitter, and converts the digital optical signal to a digital electrical signal. I own three of them, they are inexpensive within the used marketplace (Mr. Poon of Monarchy Audio is retired), and they work like a charm, bcowen.
However, the DIP is very sensitive to digital cables and a power cord upgrade, so you have to factor that investment into the purchase. Otherwise, the sound quality may be better than before, but not near its full potential, IME.
See link:
Duster,From what I can see with a brief read on the Monarchy is that it and the Remedy are serving much the same purpose if jitter reduction via reclocking is the main function. Perhaps, and totally by accident if so, I had the best setup initially: Transport -> Lifatec -> Remedy -> S/PDIF (Oyaide) -> DAC. I'll give this setup some time to break in the circuitry and see what happens.
It's also hard to know the quality of the optical circuitry -- could be an afterthought in any of the 3 pieces, which would make the quality of the optical cable a moot point.
Edits: 03/30/17
What type of external 9VDC power supply does the Remedy Reclocker feature? If it's a switch-mode wall wart, a PSU upgrade is a must-have.
The Remedy came with a cheapo wal-wart supply. I replaced it with a linear PSU (linked below). It made a clear improvement.
What DC umbilical design are you using?
I bought the wire from Chris VH you recommended for the tight twisted-pair configuration, just haven't gotten around to putting it together yet. I'm way behind on my project list. :)
What's in there now is Canare star-quad (copper), connected directly to the PSU output terminals on one end, and with an Oyaide DC-2.1G plug going into the Remedy (last 2 pictures in the prior post link).
I noticed the Oyaide DC connector, which is a must-have; nothing else comes close to it. BTW, as good as the hand-built 21 AWG VH Audio OCC solid core AirLok wire is for a DIY DC umbilical project, VH Audio's pre-made V-Quad cable is a more refined sounding option, but at greater expense. The self-shielding factor is that of a Canare star-quad cable, but it's unshielded (as it should be), the AirLok dielectric design is SOTA, the solid core OCC copper, and the precision manufacturing is far superior to that of a Canare cable. I suggest buying a length of it rather than my DIY design for your particular project, and find use of the 21 AWG VH Audio OCC solid core AirLok wire for another project if you seek a reference-quality DC umbilical. YMMV
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