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In Reply to: Questions about replacement PC for C320BEE posted by TopPop on November 26, 2005 at 22:39:27:
I do my DIYs on the cheap from local hardware stores, mostly, but I've found that for my NAD amp, etc., you can actually do FAR FAR BETTER for less overall by buying from Chris Ven Haus at vhaudio.com.
First of all, his PC designs are widely used and touted. YOu can also rely on his very freely given advice.I've made lots of PC designs now, most from locally available materials. But nothing came close to the improvement I got from Chris' designs and materials.
I made some myself from local stuff (Carol, shielding, heatshrink, Hubbell plugs) and was delighted with the results. Then I had an epiphany: Chris sells better quality raw materials for LESS than I paid outright here!
His 12 AWG cryoed teflon insulated and jacketed raw cable is excellent and costs only $3/foot or so for unshielded. That is the wire you probably need, as I did, for the NAD 2 wire amp. As is it's great stuff. Then add his cryoed Wattgate 5266 plug for $16, which is about $7 more than you'd pay for a decent Marinco or Hubbell at a hardware store IF you could even find it in most (unless it's P&S or Hubbell or Marinco at your hardware store, you're probably cheating yourself of quality sound for no real savings of note). Total for a 5 foot PC was about $35 plus shipping. Burn it in for 400 hours (teflon you know) and you will be amazed at the upgrade you just created. It's a no-brainer to make and a no-brainer to buy the higher quality materials in this case.
Have fun and read my review here about his DIY PC materials.
Follow Ups:
Hi bartc, I just want to let you know that the proper designation for the Flavor power cord's insulation "should" be FEP. While the materials are quite similar (and Dupont's FEP product is branded as TeflonŽ FEP), Teflon usually refers to PTFE in audiophlia, no matter who manufacturered it. "Teflon" is kinda like the word "Kleenex" as it applies to facial tissues, as any brand facial tissue is often called a kleenex (when was the last time someone asked for a facial tissue? :-). So, TeflonŽ PTFE is the only "real" Teflon*, but any make of PTFE is perfectly OK to be called Teflon.*They even have motto: "Only DuPont makes TeflonŽ"
I already knew that Teflon is a family of DuPont fluoropolymers, consisting of: PTFE, FEP, ETFE (Tefzel), and PFA, but...A fellow inmate says it is actually correct to refer to FEP as "Teflon".
I understand that it is "correct" in the strict sense of the term but, as I said in the post:
"...Dupont's FEP product is branded as TeflonŽ FEP), Teflon usually refers to PTFE in audiophlia, no matter who manufacturered it..."
To the best of my understanding; to casually call FEP "Teflon" without mentioning FEP in the same breath is misleading. I do not think I'm the originator of this notion. However, if I am, than I'm sorry for posting the statement about FEP.
...and I'll make sure to use the word Teflon instead of FEP to describe my FEP insulated cables in future posts, since it sure looks a helluva lot cooler than FEP does.
Duster
...and I apologize. It is perfectly fine to refer to FEP as Teflon. Sorry, bartc.
;-)
I'll only accept this if you can send me a WAV file with you singing the jingle....
:-O}}}
...insulating the wire with the rubber hose that is available on his website? Are there sonic benefits to this, or is it better to leave the wire as-is?
Cheers,
Chris
The raw cable is insulated with teflon, then tightly covered after twisting in a heavy teflon jacket. It's very neat and quite complete for 2 wire purposes in analog, which don't use shielding. The rubber hose was for spacing for the shield or ground wire, as I recall, and neither is in play here IF your NAD is like mine and is a 2 wire cord deal only.Don't add dielectric materials where you don't need them. Here is one example of where it's unnecessary.
All that teflon insulation and jacketing takes 400 hours to properly burn in, so be advised. No big deal to run the amp muted 24/7 so that it burns in continuously. Duster or another inmate recommended a break at 150 hours, then back to burn in; I can't vouch for that method but there's no reason it shouldn't work. I just break in and listen for a couple of hours when I'm home, then mute again and keep up the routine for the full 2 weeks.
Hey thanks for the advice! That actually falls within my ultra-cheap budget! I'll order a couple of cables from his website (would also like to replace the PC on my CDP), and post the results. Thanks again!
Cheers,
Chris
Again, if you have a 2 wire situation, you'll probably use his SHIELDED flavor 3 recipe here, but ask Chris' advice relative to your specific CDP. Digital componentry does best with shields. He sells that same cryoed or uncryoed raw wire WITH the shield for a little more, but it's still a bargain.
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