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In Reply to: RE: BiAmp Noodle posted by pictureguy on May 26, 2017 at 17:19:20
Bi-amp is great. Tri-amp is even better.
Some people concern themselves with "power division", etc. Forget that bullshit.
You need to select a crossover which does what you want and doesn't sound like crap.
Cross at something like 125-150 Hz. This keeps it out of the MAIN range of most musical instruments. Audiophiles typically don't know that. Audio engineers and musicians DO. ;)
Regarding speaker cables: 12 gauge twisted pair is fine. Don't obsess over "shorter lengths". Five feet, fifteen/twenty feet, whatever. The audiophile world is filled with BS.
I don't know anything about nCore, so I can't help you there.
:)
Follow Ups:
Connecting Amp/Crossover to Pre with balanced and using the shortest feasible speaker cables minimizes opportunity to pick up Any Stray RFI.
All things being equal, given sufficient wire gauge, I won't worry about speaker cable length until it hits maybe 10 feet or so. Maybe 15.
Case by Case basis.
Technically, a pair of 2 way speakers with a sub IS a Three-way and therefore Tri-Amped. I wouldn't know where to begin trying to Triamp a 2-Way speaker. ;)
Crossing the sub as low as 50hz, acts to remove the lowest octave from the Main Speakers addresses several considerations at once.
Crossover to sub is low enough to prevent ANY thought of localizing it.
Main amps are relieved of a small but real amount of power need, transferred to sub. This has the effect of moving the 50:50 power point a BIT higher, which with my 1.6 Maggies, is all to the good.
I'd never cross a sub above maybe 80hz, which is what you find in an HT receiver.
Too much is never enough
If you're going to do a single (one channel) sub, 50 Hz/24 dB per octave is about the max, depending on your hearing and listening sensitivity.My point was regarding stereo subs. 125-150 Hz takes a LOT of the load off the main speakers, and is a good crossover area, without having to be concerned with localization and/or having a crossover in a bad musical instrument place.
I understand that powered/crossed "subs" (plural) with a bi-amped two-way speaker is, in fact, a tri-amped speaker. What I said is that tri-amping is even better than bi-amping. That is basically what you're doing, except that your main speaker manufacturer didn't tell you that you'd want an add-on woofer, and that, if you want to use just one, cross it very low.
Lastly, again, do not worry about 10-15 foot speaker cable lengths, especially with regard to stray RFI. Your RFI/EMI/hum interference is going to come from your low-level component interconnects and from having your components connected to multiple outlets, as well as from your and your neighbor's electronic kitchen oven temperature sensors. For home listening, 20 feet of 12 gauge twisted pair will get you into "the zone" and will be fine. Chill out, dude!
:)
Edits: 05/29/17 05/29/17
I think you're right.
With STEREO subs, a higher crossover point can be sustained. Maybe it'd even be of further benefit to imaging / stage width?Trouble in this case is my awful room, which is 8 sided, very asymmetric AND has a peaked ceiling of about 11 feet. I'd gues maybe 5000 cubic feet or so.
The sub when located on the LEFT side (facing speakers from listening position) turned my den into a helmholtz of sheer boominess. The left side was intened to take advantage of being nearer a corner.
The sub ended up on the right side, oriented parallel to a wall and away from corners. Indeed, the sub is near to the hallway to the back of the house. That location is MUCHO better. The entry to the den in question is on a 45 to the main walls in the LR, and at a 90 to the wall from hell, which is at a 45 to the plane of the speakers, 6 feet wide and 10feet tall. Can you spell absorption?I also use OPTIC connection in several places where single ended would do as well. This avoids ANY potential for RFI pickup.
Too much is never enough
Edits: 05/29/17
A-b-s-o-r-p-t-i-o-n.
Absorption.
;)
With the ONE addition I made many years ago, room ain't half bad. I put a thickish woolen tapestry on the FAR wall to tame an echo. It is spaced 2" from the wall.
Sitting position is unfortunately near the mid-point of the LONG dimension of the room, but not QUITE. Bass with the sub on the right side seems very well distributed now and even. Sticking my head in the various corners doesn't seem to show any 'peaks'.
I've got plans for diffusors to go Behind the speakers where they'll do the most good.
Maybe I should send off for some OC703 and build something for the Big Wall, which is at a 45 to the plane of the speakers and not THAT far away.
Too much is never enough
Sorry if I was not clear. I was replying to your question: "Can you spell absorption?"
It was supposed to be a joke. :)
Regarding your woolen rug on the wall... I'd have to look it up, but I think you're getting most of your absorption between about 125/200 Hz and about 500 Hz. I'm not sure if that's what you want. Check out "Master Handbook of Acoustics" and "Acoustical Designing In Architecture". They both have very good guidelines for absorbers. Also, the ASTM has a lot of this kind of info. Lastly, for the cost of a not extremely expensive turntable/cartridge, you can get a real acoustician to come in to evaluate your room.
:)
If I had extra coin? I'd be tempted to get an ISF guy here to do a TV tuneup.
The new generation of OLED sets are nothing short of Spectacular. The new '7' series are supposed to be better. I have a 2016 'B6' which blows me away. No 3D, which makes me dizzy with those horrible glasses and only OK source material.
I'd make 2'x4' panels using OC703 or similar in 2" thickness. 2x framing and a couple cross braces would provide anti-racking while choice of 'grill cloth' for acoustic transparency and appearance. But I would probably make DIFFUSORS first,
Too much is never enough
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