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I opened the amplifier and saw the failure - it's a grey resistor located on the left channel driver PC board. There are two such resistors on the left of the V5 5687 tube position and two on the right of the V6 5687 tube position. The leg of such resistor got loose. Unfortunately, I cannot make a picture.
My question is: would it require a great technical skill to solder the leg back to the PC board? Or the entire board should be removed? Would it require a special thin soldering iron?
Thanks in advance.
Buy some resistors and some terminal strips and practice.
Practice and practice some more
The more you do it the better you get
Get a desoldering gun too and practice with that
Then do the job
Take voltages when you are done
I am a retired service technician and
the one in the link below is the best.
The heating and sucking are done together.
Parts Express also sell one.
The bulb type solder suckers are kinda a POS... ones such as this one from PartsExpress are better: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=370-030
Other than clearing thru holes, I've never felt the need for a desoldering iron, and if I did, I would get a powered vacuum type such as a Hakko 808, etc. It is easy enough to hold the iron with one hand and the solder sucker with the other. Then take some needlenose pliers and the iron, and remove the component lead while heating a bit.
I prefer the Edsyn type, such as this one:
If you have a Fry's nearby, they carry them in stock.
I have found that the desoldering iron
I recommended works very well. Parts Express
also has one. Read the reviews and give it
First you need a Solder Sucker or an extra pair of hands. If you can melt and remove the solder from the eyelet you can then resolder the lead. An inexpensive Radio Shack or Weller Pencil iron with a narrow 'chisel'tip will do it. Wet the tip with solder and apply the tip so that it touches both the board hole (eyelet) and the resistor lead. Apply a bit of solder until you see it melt and bubble a bit in the hole.
W/O a Solder Sucker you need someone to grasp the lead with a needle nose pliers or tweezers to press the lead into the hole as you melt the solder already in it.
Sometimes the way the parts leads are bent want to make it pop back up when you remove the iron and before the solder cools so watch for it.
LIBERTY ONCE LOST,
IS LOST FOREVER
Thank you for the advice.
I have a Solder Sucker in the form of a syringe, though it looks like the eyelet on the board is empty from solder. I will look for a tech who has such equipment and will agree to come to my place to resolder it.
Unless the wire connection and the resistor absolutely do not show signs of extreme heat, would it not be best to check the resistence first?
Observe, before you think
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