Tweakers' Asylum

Tweaks for systems, rooms and Do It Yourself (DIY) help. FAQ.

Use this form to submit comments directly to the Asylum moderators for this forum. We're particularly interested in truly outstanding posts that might be added to our FAQs.
You may also use this form to provide feedback or to call attention to messages that may be in violation of our content rules.

You must login to use this feature.

Inmate Login

By default, logging in will set a session cookie that disappears when you close your browser. Clicking on the 'Remember my Moniker & Password' below will cause a permanent 'Login Cookie' to be set.

Moniker/Username: The Name that you picked or by default, your email. Forgot Moniker?	Examples "Rapper", "Bob W", "joe@aol.com".
Password:	Forgot Password?
	Remember my Moniker & Password ( What's this?)

If you don't have an Asylum Account, you can create one by clicking Here.

Our privacy policy can be reviewed by clicking Here.

Inmate Comments

From:
Your Email:
Subject:

Message Comments

Original Message

Re: Calculating speaker box volume...

Posted by PeterS on December 30, 2000 at 02:53:58:
Marty,
Your question is a bit vague but I'll give it a try.
#1. The super thick front baffle as far as adding cab. volume. Depends on the orig. cab. volume. If it were a small (mini) monitor then yes subtract the "tunnel" volume from the orig. cab. volume and recalc the cab for the remaining volume. If the design was for say a 1 cu. ft. cab. then 170 cu. in (minus what the speaker displaces) isn't all that significant.
#2. As others have pointed out, a super thick wall has diminishing returns once your past the 1" thick point. OTOH, I've done enough cabs to know that "dead" is better. Plenty of bracing and rigid walls keep the cab. from "talking" along w/ the drivers.
#3. FWIW, I've always added 10-15% to the cab volume anyway. That seems a good rule of thumb when you add bracing, drivers etc.
Good luck w/ your project.
PS