Tweakers' Asylum Tweaks for systems, rooms and Do It Yourself (DIY) help. FAQ.

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More Room Treatment Questions from other post last week- Long

Posted by Vinyljunkie100 (A) on November 12, 2007 at 08:54:07

I would like to send out a big thanks to all the members on this board who have given me advice. I have followed your suggestions and rotated my listening position 90 degrees to the left, much to my wife’s disgust. I went to Linens and Things, Bed Bath Beyond, as well as Penny’s in search of the light/noise reducing curtains. I finally ordered some online today and should be here by the end of the week. I was able to keep my equipment in closet, but now have RCA’s across LR floor. I have a long list of questions, and hope you guys can be of some more help. I have already researched other posts as to avoid asking unnecessary questions.

1. I have made DIY coner busters. I just used 8 layers of poly batting without fiberglass. I don’t need fiberglass do I?

2. I have started construction on 2 wall panels for 1st reflection points. They are 2 runs of fiberglass wide (30.5 on inside), and approx 5 feet tall. I will set them 4 to 6 inches off wall. I will also be building more bass traps. I should be fine just using 8 inches of fiberglass only (no Rockwool or fiberglass panel), right? Why should I use backed fiberglass instead of unfaced? It would make sense if I was making for a panel, but since I’m not it seems unnecessary, or is it? If I could get some clarification here, it would be appreciated. Also I built out of 1x4’s. After I completely covered with material, I will use outer layer of walnut for finished look. I spend most of yesterday working with walnut. It is now planed and I used dado blade so they will fit tightly over covered 1x4’s. I read to make sure walnut is solid as to avoid resonances. Will a tight fit plus lot of liquid nails and a few screws accomplish this? Also how many layers of batting between burlap and fiberglass? I bought Wall World king size high loft. Also are these ok on the floor. I noticed some people put on stands.

3. I have bought materials for construction of 3 more tube traps. I have 2-13 inch already. I plan on putting 2 16’s in corners behind speakers, 1 13 in center behind speakers in center, and other 2 13’s in rear corners behind me. After reading, I still have some construction questions. A 13 inch tube trap needs 43 inches of material to wrap around it. The burlap from Wally world is 36 inches wide. John mentions heat welding or something like that. What is it, can I do it? Or what elso should I do? Also if I buy fancier fabric (like ASC type) does it come in better dimensions for only 1 seam as opposed to 2? Also for my center trap I was thinking about building a ½ round. Has anyone done this? Since it will be in center, it probably won’t matter if it doesn’t go as low absorbing wise. I was thinking of taking sheet of thin MDF sheet 13 inches wide by 4 feet tall, cut 4 saw marks (to hold in wire) about ½ inch from either side (also 2 more in center for 4 inch smaller diameter, then forming ½ round and putting ends of wire in the saw groove. It would essentially be the same as full round besides this. I thought this might be a little less obtrusive. The 4 in corners will be full rounds.

4 Now for my rear wall. I will have 2 tube traps in corners as well as corner things. It is open directly behind me and to my right (when facing opposite listening position) to another room, but there is a wall 20 inches behind me to my left. I have 2 - 2 foot x 5 foot acoustic panels (feels like rockwool made by Audio Innovations), and 8 sound planks left. Will these be enough to treat rear wall or should I make another panel (this one would hang on wall). Do I just place symmetrically and then just don’t place ones where it is open? I was thinking about 3 sound planks on drop down between rooms (ceiling like I had over French doors). I big panel butted up close to behind me, and other panel directly behind right speaker (left speaker is open). Will this be symmetric enough?

5. Also people mentioned treatment for adjoining room. What would be done if there were no wife issues? Any shoulds or have too’s for this room? I listen with these curtains closed also.

6. Will curtains and liners be enough, or will I need a panel behind speakers (my wife really hopes not), and would have to be moved in place each listening session.

7. Should I move equipment out of closet? I hate how RCA’s run across LR floor. If so where should I put it? Wife won’t let me stick between 2 speakers (covering windows when curtains open). I was thinking just to the left wall between acoustic panel and tube trap. Any better location?

After all these questions I guess I should comment about the sound of all my changes. Although I didn’t fully realize it, my bass was dull and muddy before. It was the harshness in upper mids/ lower highs that made me start all this questioning and rearranging. It took me a while to get speakers placed with this new set-up. If you own Vandy’s you’ll understand that between placement, toe-in, and rake angle they are easy to misalign. Bass is now solid. Harshness is GONE! Also plenty of mid bass. Maybe a little layed back now. I’m hope with rest of treatment I will get some sparkle. I am also moving my 1000 record out of the room today. I don’t know if it was the commenting ideas of asylum folk in my head, or if they were “sucking life” out of the room. It seems my right part of soundstage (part with walls) sounded better than left side (part open behind). Records are currently in 1st reflection spot on this open side. I don’t think what I was listening to was “pulling left or right” such as David Aiken has suggested as could be a possibility, but should know once record are gone if this is the case. Speakers are not toed in at all

Thanks again to John Risch, David Aiken, Uncle Stu, cheap-jack, and well as many others for all your help! I look forward to your comments and suggestions.

Happy Listening!
James Locke

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