Home Tweakers' Asylum

Tweaks for systems, rooms and Do It Yourself (DIY) help. FAQ.

thinner layers dry much better, more uniformly

The best way to do it is get high quality artists turpentine, no greasy residues in it, and thin the C37 until it is a little more than watery, paint on the lighest coat you can. This will acceptably harden overnight. I never use added heat as this can cause a dense top film to form that slows the hardening of the C37 underneath. For best results, longer times and lower heat will give the best quality, like making good chili.
It is important to keep the C37 in topped up bottles, as if C37 is exposed to air it will form a sticky film on the surface. If you try to stir this ot agitate it to disperse the died C37, it will form stringy globs that are impossible to pull out of the coating.
C37 will change and improve in time. Even in a warm-hot environment like the inside of my amp cover, there were audible changes over the period of 2 months until it completely settled.
Electron microscope studies of some of the great Cremona stringed instruments show a 3 layer technique of a pure lacquer base coat, a mineralized lacquer middle coat, and another pure lacquer top coat.
My next experiment with this will probably be on a Bel Canto pre-amp with the 3 layer coating method. I plan on budgeting 3 days for the base coat to firm up, 7 days for the mineralized coat, and another 3 days for the top coat... after 24 hours of slow cure I think it is OK to move it into a warm area or apply *gentle* heat. For certain pieces it may be best to lay them on a heating pad set on the lowest setting , such as with a top cover turned over. I would *never* blast C37 with heat gun as the cure will be highly uneven and possibly damaged...



This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors:
  Parts Connexion  


Follow Ups Full Thread
Follow Ups


You can not post to an archived thread.