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Speaker Asylum General speaker questions for audio and home theater. |
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Speaker Asylum General speaker questions for audio and home theater. |
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In Reply to: Okay, Okay. posted by Danny on June 12, 2006 at 06:16:11:
Can't wait to hear what you find. I expected the glossy front panel to be thin decorative plastic, but surprisingly it's solid mdf, so you actually have a 1" total thickness baffle. It's held in place by the four grill mounting posts (use a 3mm allen wrench to loosen these) and a bit of glue between the driver and the port. Removing it requires a bit of coaxing around the edges with a wide blade screwdriver.The crossover board is thin and is hot glued to a brace inside the enclosure. I didn't want to break it, so I examined the crossover in place with a mirror and light. Both the woofer and tweeter sections appear to be second order, with an iron core inductor in the woofer section and an air core for the tweeter (unless I just couldn't see the iron core in the smaller inductor). The caps are electrolytics. There's an 8 ohm ten watt wirewound, which I assume is the tweeter padding resistor. There is also a small device at one end of the resistor, which may be a protection-type circuit breaker. I suspect the only cost effective upgrade for a $45 pair of speakers will be to replace the tweeter cap with an inexpensive metallized polypropylene and to bypass the cicruit breaker.
The enclosure sides have deep sawblade cuts about 1/8" apart running from top to bottom, which enabled the builder to curve the side panels. Using a finger to push some filler like rope putty into the cuts probably would deaden the side panels.
They sound surprisingly good with high end electonics. Tomorrow I'll dig out my $80 Sherwood receiver and Swenson-modded Toshiba 3950 DVD player to see what a po' folks $200 total high end system sounds like.
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Follow Ups
- Re: Okay, Okay. - FredT 13:16:39 06/12/06 (0)
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