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Upsamplers, DACs, jitter, shakes and analogue withdrawals, this is it.

RE: Furutech GT40 as At-to-D

You need software on the Mac to actually take the USB signal from your A/D and record it. You will be able to choose the resolution you record at but I wouldn't go too crazy with very hi-res as the files become huge and the return on investment diminishes fast. Most of mine were set at 24-bit / 96-KHz 2-channel. I used the free Audacity software. You want to record in a quality format like AIFF, WAV, FLAC, ALAC. For Mac I would recommend AIFF. You do not want to record to MP3, AAC, or other lossy formats.

In my setup I had the PS Audio GCPH Phono Preamp driving the HRT Linestreamer+ A/D converter which drove my Mac over USB. In your case, the Furutech has its own Phono preamp built-in

Cartridge -> Phono preamp - > A/D Converter -> Mac USB -> Audacity Software

And headphones on the Mac will allow you to monitor your work.

Hint: You'll have to tinker a bit to figure out the software. Audacity is general purpose not specifically for digitizing vinyl but it works. There are other software packages that help to automate the process by automatically breaking up the tracks for you. In my case with Audacity, I would record the entire A side to a large file, then the entire B side to another large file. You can leave it at that unless you want your music player to have track and title information. In this case, as I did, I would manually break up the huge A file and B file into separate tracks (separate smaller files). You then need to input the meta data for each file, like Album, Artist, title, etc. It is a HUGE undertaking and you'll soon get tired of it and just rip CDs, buy hi-res downloads, or subscribe to a hi-res streaming service. Don't say I didn't warn you! But it IS fun, for a while ;-)

P.S. Audacity has built-in level meters (in green in the photos above). You want to set the levels high enough but not so much that they clip. Use the variable output from the Furutech if offers this option. The PS Audio GCPH has variable output and it came in handy. Set the level too low and you lose dynamics and might have more background noise. Once recorded, you can "zoom in" on parts of the waveform and manually reduce pops and clicks. It is tedious work so unless your albums are especially bad, I would just digitize them and leave them as is. Experiment with a short recording first to see if you have things setup properly. Good luck!






Edits: 09/03/20 09/03/20 09/03/20 09/03/20 09/03/20 09/03/20 09/03/20

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