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In Reply to: Re: Modern Caps,Vintage gear posted by scrooie looie on March 26, 2001 at 01:47:22:
I've found 715P and 716P caps, but have not seen 6PSP caps. They are not listed on the SBE website either. Thanks.Jim
Follow Ups:
Check out pg.24 of the Antique Electronic Supply catalog.They are type"PS"polyester film 600v(480)820-5411.or,www.tubesandmore.com.
Thanks Scrooie. I looked there earlier today, but they don't have the correct values for my amp. Is there really a big difference between a .068 uF and a .1 uF cap? And are the 6PSP caps that much better than the 715P or 716P caps? I have a Sherwood S-5000 that I want to recap (at least the coupling caps), change the selenium rectifier and change the filter caps (which seem to be the hardest thing to find, although AES has some close ones). Thanks.Jim
Hi Jim,
I called Antique and they do have them in stock,part#c-sd068-600.If you had to increase the value from .068 to.1,"typically"it does`nt matter,but,if you could find the correct value,stick with that.
I would never say that one type of cap is better than another.In my opinion the 6PSP type balances well with vintage amplifiers that are usually populated with carbon composition resistors.Leading edge transient information in the rythym ranges keep their "bite" with the 6PSPs.At the same time,high frequency info does`nt get sizzly.For me,this is a good thing.The 7 series seems to smooth over some of the bite in the rythym ranges.This may be a good thing for certain systems and certain tastes,but not for me.There may be situation where my opinion may be reversed,but so far it has`nt been.Good Luck scrooie looie
Thanks Scrooie,I think I've decided to replace all 23 brown drops in my Sherwood. No reason other than it seems like the thing to do. They all appear to be in great shape. Everything I've read about the brown (or some people call them chocolate) drops is bad. Since I need 7 different sizes of caps, I will probably go with the Sprague 716P since between Angela and AES I can get every size I need. I'll probably change the coupling caps first and then slowly work my way around seeing if they really make a difference.
Every resistor I've checked has tested well within tolerance, so I think I'll leave them for now. The selenium rectifier has to go, but I'm very confused as to how the substitute diodes (or maybe a FRED). Every explanation I've seen refers to 2 wires connected by the diode. My SR has two transformer leads going into the ends and a third connection coming out of the middle. From the schematic, it appears that I would connect a diode to each transformer wire and the ends of the diodes together, which end would connect where the third connection was made on the SR. I'm going to have one of my electronic expert friends look at it before I do it.
The amp sounds very good to me, except for a very low level AC hum when the volume is all the way down. I assume that's the filter caps, which are proving to be a real pain to find. I may change the large one (easiest to find a close substitute) and wait on the small cans. I can't find a 250/150@50v two section cap anywhere on the web. I've found some 500v cans that are close, but I've also read that you shouldn't jump that much in voltage with an electrolytic cap. I think I'll call AES to see what they've got that's not listed on their site.
Thanks again for your help.
Jim
Hi,
Try www.vibroworld.com for can type capacitors.They will custom manufacture caps with the values you spec.Prices aren't any higher than Aero,Mallory,and you'll get the correct uf,v.
Disclaimer:I don't know these guys or have experience with them.I got their name from a guy on the HH Scott forum,who was very satisfied.
Best,
Pat
Thanks Pat. Sounds like a great lead. I'll check it out. Cheers.Jim
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