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Compare and Contrast upgrade issues on .7 vs older?

Posted by bruce.warren (A) on July 16, 2021 at 07:38:27

I've a pair of Maggie .7's and considering some modifications, yet I see virtually nothing here about it -- not that anyone's search engine will hone in on a 2-character model name let alone where one character is punctuation!

So, has anyone done some wiring and/or crossover modifications to the .7?


Tabs:
I've read a few posts advising NOT to solder wires to the tabs attached to the drivers as it can easily melt the mylar. Yet I see screw clamps that attach the foil leads to the tabs.

* Why not just unscrew the foil from the tab and then solder to the tab?

* Is the plastic mount for the tabs not heat resistant? It looks like I can slide the tabs out from the plastic mount and solder that way. Any issues there?


Terminals:
These are tinned brass, though the fixing nut and set screw are ferrous steel.

* Can replace the nut with brass or just replace the posts with ones having higher copper content, better grip on banana/z-plugs, and can handle spades as well.


Wiring Generally:
Is 16ga copper in mostly 10" lengths, soldered at crossover end, and attached to push tabs on the other end.

* The crimping and push tabs fit is proper, but can gain a little through replacing push tabs with soldered connections where appropriate. The ring termainls are still just screwed down tight against the speaker terminals, so can be removed as required.

* It would seem that 16ga is decent for the tweeter side though could probably improve on the wire quality.

* For general amplifier input through the speaker terminals to the crossover 14ga is probably better and short enough that larger wire may not be required, though 12ga couldn't hurt if your soldering skills can handle that heavy a wire without damaging something with heat.


Jumpers:
Same as always. Poor quality and the sound suffers.

* Can replace with good quality copper cable jumpers or just move both wires on the back to one terminal, bypassing the jumper.

* If having a sufficient amplifier that won't clip, can also bypass the tweeter fuse for increase in SQ.


Sock:
I notice this sock has no seams on the bottom, just a continuous loop, so unscrewing the side trim and then removing the staples under that trim is the way, then slide top and bottom of fabric off of the panel.

The fabric is stretchy and strong enough that for some work one only need remove the staples halfway up on the crossover side and then can push it out of the way.


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Theories tickle the brain, but listening to the music is more satisfying.

mRendu, Calyx 24/192 DAC, Neurochrome Modulus-686, Pass design B1rev2 buffer, Magnepan .7, EWA LS-25 spkr, HT Truthlink

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