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Blueglow Electronics

67.253.54.149
Posted on May 12, 2017 at 16:20:38
mark.korda@myfairpoint.net
Audiophile

Posts: 1253
Location: Maine
Joined: August 16, 2011
 Hi,
I went on You Tube and found this newish site called (Blueglow Electronics). I watched a 9 part episode on building the Dyna Mark 3's. It went for hours and covered any glitch a builder might face. There are a ton of other videos on vintage rebuilds and they are informative and go slow.
This is the best learning curve I have ever found on this and I was wondering why Mike Samra had not done this yet,and all you others great at it too. They even had a Western Electric segment.
I know this comes after the lesson on posting but if you go to You Tube and type in Blueglow Electronics the different projects are laid out better than Blueglows web site.
I would really like to know what you think about this site because I think I found gold....thanks guys....Mark Korda

 

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RE: Blueglow Electronics, posted on May 13, 2017 at 03:31:09
vinnie2
Audiophile

Posts: 4481
Location: North Carolina
Joined: September 28, 2013
 Looks like a good site. Thanks. By the way, all you had to do was copy the link from the title bar at the top of the blueglow home page and paste it in the "optional link URL" space in the posting box like I did. Took me all of 10 seconds. As it stands now, everyone that goes to the site per your directions will have to copy the link, go to their web browser and paste it in; probably 30 seconds. However, that would be 30 seconds for EVERY person who wants to go there. Do the math, 10 seconds for you, or 30 seconds times several hundred if everyone else follows your directions. Hopefully most will read my post first and use the link below. Anyone that can't follow the layout of the videos on the home page probably won't get anything out of the videos either.

 

Take it easy Vinnie, posted on May 13, 2017 at 04:41:36
Uncle Mike
 After all he did apologize in advance and was pretty descriptive in the method used to get there.
Just Sayin'
Regards
Mike

 

RE: Take it easy Vinnie, posted on May 13, 2017 at 05:36:50
vinnie2
Audiophile

Posts: 4481
Location: North Carolina
Joined: September 28, 2013
 And I said thanks for the link. Several of the other posts on my post below clouded the issue and made it seem harder than it is. It is so freakin' easy to if you just have one link, and yet people just seem to shine it on.

 

Actually, posted on May 13, 2017 at 08:01:54
Uncle Mike
 I really don't mind taking the 30 seconds to search a link. I have , in the past, put up links for others that posted something worthwhile but did not include a hyperlink. Heck I'm happy if they cut and paste an html address.
It's all good Vinny.

 

RE: Actually, posted on May 13, 2017 at 09:15:49
vinnie2
Audiophile

Posts: 4481
Location: North Carolina
Joined: September 28, 2013
 That fine Mike, but do you really think it makes sense for everybody that wants to look at the link to have to do that when all it would take is one click if the link were posted properly? I sure don't.

 

RE: Blueglow Electronics, posted on May 13, 2017 at 09:53:15
Uncle Mike
 https://blueglowelectronics.wordpress.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVXv8_dfJjqWluEFktmv12A

 

Maybe it's just stagefright, posted on May 13, 2017 at 12:31:27
1973shovel
Audiophile

Posts: 10117
Location: Greenville SC
Joined: February 25, 2007
 But I'm only 2:15 into the first video on the MK-III, and he's calling the power supply's quad cap the "output capacitors". Hopefully that's just being nervous on camera.

Thanks for the head's up on these, Mark. I'm going to enjoy watching them. I'll especially like hearing what he has to say regarding the Audio Research SP3-A-1. I have one sitting here which I bought new in 1976, that hasn't seen power in about twenty-five or more years.

Thanks again.

 

RE: Blueglow Electronics, posted on May 13, 2017 at 12:42:17
vinnie2
Audiophile

Posts: 4481
Location: North Carolina
Joined: September 28, 2013
 Way to go Mike; now folks have TWO cut and pastes to do, if they want to bother. That's SO much better.

 

Nice site Mike, thanks, posted on May 13, 2017 at 13:20:08
airtime
Audiophile

Posts: 11287
Location: Arizona
Joined: February 4, 2003
 youtube can be fun. I learned more on how to use an oscilloscope AFTER I sold it by watching youtube.


Now I'm on old Johnny Carson shows.

 

I was subscribed to that one as well., posted on May 13, 2017 at 13:26:30
Michael Samra
Dealer

Posts: 36118
Location: saginaw michigan
Joined: January 30, 2005
 Nice site.
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken

 

RE: Blueglow Electronics, posted on May 13, 2017 at 13:32:42
double28
Audiophile

Posts: 3232
Location: Greensboro, NC
Joined: February 20, 2008
 Sport, you are aware you are the poster boy of the day on Shady Lane???

Just giving you a heads up ole buddy...

Everyone's not as smart as you and are actually lucky to navigate their way to AA.

No need for a smart ass reply either just pointing out that rather than being snarky you may benefit others by teachiing.

Will

 

It was all Marks doing..., posted on May 13, 2017 at 14:01:07
Uncle Mike
 That bought these to you.

 

Thanks, Mark., posted on May 13, 2017 at 14:43:01
Jim Treanor
Audiophile

Posts: 2167
Location: Pacific Northwest
Joined: June 1, 2003
 Great site.


Jim

 

RE: Blueglow Electronics, posted on May 13, 2017 at 16:46:03
vinnie2
Audiophile

Posts: 4481
Location: North Carolina
Joined: September 28, 2013
 What the #@$% do you think I have been trying to do but teach?

 

RE: Blueglow Electronics, posted on May 13, 2017 at 17:00:54
double28
Audiophile

Posts: 3232
Location: Greensboro, NC
Joined: February 20, 2008
 It's your attitude and tone of voice. Sort of like typing in all CAPS.

Many of us are a bit slow and still working on our DOS 1.2 skills.

Too bad if that upsets you. Patience my man.

You need to check in at Shady Lane and sort things out. Just a suggestion and I am not affiliated with OP or responder.

Will

 

RE: SP3, posted on May 13, 2017 at 18:28:48
fredtr
Audiophile

Posts: 1987
Location: Phoenix
Joined: January 4, 2005
 If you, or others, get back into your SP3, please post your impressions. I have one that I did a lot to and now it has been sitting for some time. I had made the changes over a period of a few years and lost perspective on how it sounded stock. I'm trying to decide what to do with it.

 

Opps meant Mark - sorry nt, posted on May 13, 2017 at 18:30:58
airtime
Audiophile

Posts: 11287
Location: Arizona
Joined: February 4, 2003
 .

 

RE: Blueglow Electronics, posted on May 13, 2017 at 18:34:13
vinnie2
Audiophile

Posts: 4481
Location: North Carolina
Joined: September 28, 2013
 Quite honestly I could care less what anyone posts on shady lane. If they haven't got the guts to post it in a forum the heck with them.

 

There were a few posts a few years ago from Mike Samra, posted on May 14, 2017 at 08:39:55
1973shovel
Audiophile

Posts: 10117
Location: Greenville SC
Joined: February 25, 2007
 Whatever he did to the SP-3 he had, he seemed to really like it, if memory serves me.

I loved knowing I owned "The state of the art" preamp, according to Absolute Sound, back in 1976. But about fourteen years later, I learned to to a few simple mods to a Dynaco PAS, and it outclassed my SP-3, which actually disappointed me in some ways. I thought I owned this methodologically great preamp, and a "lowly" modded PAS was now beating it. Go figure.

My SP-3 is still stock, other than the power supply caps, which went out on me nearly thirty years ago. I'm sure modding it could improve it, but given that it's moving into "Classic" territory, I'd probably get more money for it being stock. And If I'm not going to use it, I should get it in the hands of someone who would enjoy it.

I'll be happy to post my impressions of it, once I take it out of mothballs and Variac some life back into it.

 

RE: There were a few posts a few years ago from Mike Samra, posted on May 14, 2017 at 09:00:59
fredtr
Audiophile

Posts: 1987
Location: Phoenix
Joined: January 4, 2005
 Nice to hear someone else with a positive PAS experience. About 25 years ago I picked one up on a lark, did some updates to it, and it blew away every other preamp I had at the time. That got me back into tube equipment.

 

I basically McShaned it and it worked very well., posted on May 14, 2017 at 20:30:13
Michael Samra
Dealer

Posts: 36118
Location: saginaw michigan
Joined: January 30, 2005
 This was an SP3A1 and I had used a pair of 820uf Panasonics and FT caps downstream and GI diodes.I used RN65s grid to ground and a mix K40Y pio caps and film caps. It is fantastic and you could measure no ripple on the collector of the regulator even at the lowest setting on the scope.
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken

 

RE: I basically McShaned it and it worked very well., posted on May 15, 2017 at 06:44:33
fredtr
Audiophile

Posts: 1987
Location: Phoenix
Joined: January 4, 2005
 Thanks Mike, I changed diodes and added capacitance to PS, stepped attenuator, bypassed tone controls, gold plated connectors, better grid resistors, worked on RIAA curve, tried Vitamin Q's for the coupling caps, but ended up with Mundorf's. I didn't try K40Y's, didn't know they made 1uF at higher voltages. Just wish I had a stock unit to compare to.

What were your impressions of the sound? I didn't get to where I wanted to be and moved on.

 

"Nice to hear someone else with a positive PAS experience", posted on May 15, 2017 at 07:59:29
1973shovel
Audiophile

Posts: 10117
Location: Greenville SC
Joined: February 25, 2007
 Oh yeah, I'm not one of those PAS haters. As I said, I was certainly disappointed by a few simple PAS mods taking it past my ARC in performance, only because I thought the SP3-A-1 was still the Holy Grail of preamps.

I later did a full modification to another unit based on a two-part article in Audio Amateur called The Last PAS, by David Vorhis, who posts here on the Asylum on occasion. The modification was extensive, and really had nothing to do with a PAS anymore, except that it used the chassis, transformer, and a reworked circut on the stock circuit boards.

I've since bettered the phono stage, but the line stage of my Vorhis is still very, very good.

 

Thanks Mike! , posted on May 15, 2017 at 08:01:07
1973shovel
Audiophile

Posts: 10117
Location: Greenville SC
Joined: February 25, 2007
 For what I've seen them going for on ebay, I'm going to keep mine stock, and then sell it at some point.

 

RE: Blueglow Electronics, posted on May 15, 2017 at 08:34:18
Hornlover
Manufacturer

Posts: 2529
Joined: March 8, 2002
 I have been watching his videos for a few years. I like them. You may also want to check out Maxxarcade (https://www.youtube.com/user/Maxxarcade/videos) and Mr. Carlsons Lab (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCU9SoQxJewrWb_3GxeteQPA). There are other good ones, as well.

 

RE: I basically McShaned it and it worked very well., posted on May 15, 2017 at 08:41:00
mark.korda@myfairpoint.net
Audiophile

Posts: 1253
Location: Maine
Joined: August 16, 2011
 Hi,
I'm finally going to start a Dyna Mark 3 rebuild. This project started in 1984 when the UPS delivered them on the hottest day of our planet to me on the 4th floor,C.O.D., and I didn't have the money on me. They were in one box. You could see it in his face and eyes he was about ready to swing at me! The saga continued......
I was finally ready to build when I saw the Blueglow video. I had one more chore to finish, paint the bells on the transformers. So as complete as this guy Mark's videos I have to ask you pros 2 questions I have that maybe were not addressed as much.
1. Years ago when I took the amps apart I nipped the transformer lead wires close to the tube sockets off without thinking I should of de-soldered as I could run out of lead length when re building them.I know the rule is before soldering you should have a good physical connection. If I have to extend some transformer wire leads what would be the best physical way to connect those 2 wires before solder and shrink tubing....side by side(abutted), hook into hook ends and crimp, or twisted?
2. When it came time to strip teflon wires he had a fancy heated wire stripper that seems a little costly for me to get. Could I just heat up my little Radio Shack strippers and use a kitchen mitt glove and the flame of my gas stove? I bought some Teflon wire from Dynaparts....thought you guys might have some stripping tips as I heard most of you hang out in stripper bars?.....
If they put those Blueglow videos on major TV networks do you think the ratings would be off the charts or would people think it's to nerdy and switch over to the Big Bang show.....thanks for any help.....Mark K.

 

Mark, posted on May 15, 2017 at 10:43:21
1973shovel
Audiophile

Posts: 10117
Location: Greenville SC
Joined: February 25, 2007
 I've now watched the Blueglow MK-III rebuild videos. He does nice work, and I generally agree with most everything he said. Thanks again for alerting us to them.

A few things I noticed. If you go with the SDS power supply boards (which I recommend over the multi-section can cap), be aware that Triode has stenciled them incorrectly. Or, at least the two I bought were. Caps one and two are meant to be in series, but that's not the way the boards are numbered. It won't matter at all if you're using all the same value caps, but I used a slightly lower value as the first cap(s), so my smaller value caps actually went in positions one and five, rather than my board's indicated positions of one and two. I bring this up because, although Blueglow stuffed his own boards, he made no mention of them being mis-marked. Perhaps Triode's corrected this on the newer boards.


The second change I would make would be to do the "Diode mod" (shown below) and add a couple of UF4007s to the socket of the 5AR4. Eli Duttman has frequently recommended this as cheap insurance against today's "less robust" 5AR4s. Total cost, about 40 cents or less.




The last thing I took note of, and the biggest thing I take exception to, is his AC wiring. I really like his idea of installing a thermistor, and would encourage you to follow his suggestion. But he then wires up the power cord the same way Dynaco did it fifty+ years ago, which is the hot through the fuse, and the neutral through the switch (or vice versa).

There was a long thread on DIY Tube Asylum some time back about which should come first, the fuse or the switch. Although there was no universal consensus (although the majority said "fuse first"), everyone agreed that by today's safety standards, the hot leg should be wired to the fuse and switch, and neural directly to the power transformer.

That's not the way Dynaco did it, and BlueGlow simply followed their antiquated method. Take note that at the 43:18 point of video #7, he wires the hot (black) to the thermistor and then the switch, while the neutral (white) is wired to the fuse holder. It's simple enough to do it correctly, and I've changed any of the Dynaco pieces I've worked on to the proper method

I also noticed that he added a chassis ground to each amp, via the green wire of a three pronged power cord. Be aware that multiple grounds may cause you ground loop hum problems. I suppose you'll just have to see how that goes once you get yours built.

As to your two other questions, there's plenty of "joining two wires together" tutorials on youtube. Watch a few, and that should show you the best method for extending transformer wires.

Your other question about stripping Teflon wire, I have no good answer for. Blueglow's heated strippers looked tempting to me too. But I only do this for a hobby, so the investment wouldn't be worth it for me. I strip my Teflon wires by hand, using a razor knife. It's a pain in the ass, but works OK once you get the hang of it.

Good luck with your project, and please keep us posted.

Edit: One more thing I forgot to mention is that Blueglow had to reuse the original Dynaco 11.2 ohm bias resistors. I get that these amps were not his, but he was working on them for a customer. Perhaps the customer might be confused by the new bias setting. Dynaco's 1.56 battery test method was fine for testing a VOM fifty years ago, but today's digital meters are generally very accurate. I'd trust my meter more than a fresh battery checking exactly 1.56V. That said, I'd install a 10 ohm, 1W resistor in place of the "unobtanium" 11.2 It makes calculating the bias setting a whole lot easier.

 

RE: I basically McShaned it and it worked very well., posted on May 15, 2017 at 11:36:44
fredtr
Audiophile

Posts: 1987
Location: Phoenix
Joined: January 4, 2005
 1. My experience it depends on the wire, but basically either way is fine and yes it is good to have a good physical connection, but solder does really well. And if you can find them, vintage equipment uses a lot of terminal strips that screw to the chassis.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pieces-TS-3-Terminal-Strip-2-Lug-Bakelite-1-Grounded-2-Ungrounded-375-/252675460503?hash=item3ad4a18d97:g:RJEAAOSwA3dYSzc-

2. I just use regular wire strippers with teflon insulation.

 

Really?, posted on May 15, 2017 at 11:54:49
1973shovel
Audiophile

Posts: 10117
Location: Greenville SC
Joined: February 25, 2007
 I've never had any luck with any of the wire strippers I've tried, not where Teflon is concerned. It always just stretches it out at the end, and makes a mess.

What type of strippers do you use?

 

RE: Really?, posted on May 15, 2017 at 13:18:17
fredtr
Audiophile

Posts: 1987
Location: Phoenix
Joined: January 4, 2005
 I use two types:

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/apex-tool-group/SAS3210/SAS3210-ND/1500292

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jonard-tools/JIC-125/JIC-125-ND/1007221

Neither are the exact strippers, just so you can get an idea of the styles. The second type, I use most of the time, inexpensive and works pretty well across range of size, just rotate the wire and squeeze a couple of times before pulling.

 

RE: Really?, posted on May 15, 2017 at 14:15:11
Uncle Mike
 I found if you use a heat gun before stripping helps.

 

Strippers, posted on May 15, 2017 at 16:07:40
1973shovel
Audiophile

Posts: 10117
Location: Greenville SC
Joined: February 25, 2007






My two closely resemble these, and either pair will only serve to mangle Teflon wire. They work great on standard PVC though.

And for those who fell for my subject line, sorry. Here's a little something for you.





 

Thank you, posted on May 15, 2017 at 16:13:00
1973shovel
Audiophile

Posts: 10117
Location: Greenville SC
Joined: February 25, 2007
 I've never heard of doing that before.

Using a utility knife, or a single edge razor blade works OK on the 18 gauge Teflon I have. But I bought some 20 or perhaps 22 gauge (I can't remember which) for a project, and haven't had a bit of luck going at it with the knife.

I'll give your pre-heat method a go. Thanks again!

 

RE: Strippers, posted on May 15, 2017 at 16:36:56
mark.korda@myfairpoint.net
Audiophile

Posts: 1253
Location: Maine
Joined: August 16, 2011
 Hi,
thanks for the info. I'll practice before applying the final solder job.
Shovel, the board I'm putting in for the large aluminum electrolytic is from this guy Chart Chong which I got 8 years ago. It looks simular to the board in the video.
You won't believe this Shovel but my favorite preamp, not a passive one I built, is the Last Pas by David Vorhis. I got mine hooked up to a ST-35 in my bedroom. A friend wired mine in a trade for another PAS and a faceplate I made to hide missing switches and controls back in 1990. I still have the article on it if you need a copy. I got to get you a picture. Take care....Mark K.

 

There's no substitute for stiff power supplies, posted on May 15, 2017 at 19:19:26
E-Stat
Audiophile

Posts: 37609
Joined: May 12, 2000
Contributor
  Since: April 5, 2002
 I had used a pair of 820uf Panasonics and FT caps downstream...

My Audio Research SP20 runs 940 uF @ 285V for 38 joules - more than double that of a McIntosh MC2505 power amp. :)

 

Last Pas by David Vorhis, posted on May 16, 2017 at 05:14:10
1973shovel
Audiophile

Posts: 10117
Location: Greenville SC
Joined: February 25, 2007
 I'm not at all surprised that you enjoy your "Last PAS". I enjoy mine too, and I've been using it problem free for at least 25 years. It's good to know someone else out there actually built it. You're the first other Inmate I recall ever mentioning it. Thanks for the offer of the article, but I still have mine, unfortunately not in PDF form, but a hard copy.

Have you tried the EFB mod on your ST-35? If not, I recommend it, and your tubes will thank you!

At the risk of redundancy, please look hard into the AC wiring of your upcoming MK-III project, and put the fuse, thermistor and switch all on the hot leg.

Be safe, and have fun.

 

RE: Last Pas by David Vorhis, posted on May 17, 2017 at 15:10:49
mark.korda@myfairpoint.net
Audiophile

Posts: 1253
Location: Maine
Joined: August 16, 2011



Hi,
Shovel, my pad 5 years ago. Try and find the Last Pas, it's got my home made faceplate....Mark K.

 

RE: There's no substitute for stiff power supplies, posted on May 17, 2017 at 15:41:23
Michael Samra
Dealer

Posts: 36118
Location: saginaw michigan
Joined: January 30, 2005
 Yesiree.
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken

 

RE: There's no substitute for stiff power supplies, posted on May 18, 2017 at 02:36:50
PakProtector
Audiophile

Posts: 12363
Joined: May 14, 2002
 and a very simple way to assure a stiff PS is to use Class A bias on the finals. Not usually easy, as the voltage needs to come down a lot, and the additional current wears the tubes faster...b-u-u-t-t-t-t-t, the sonics are quite worth it...:)
cheers,
Douglas

Friend, I would not hurt thee for the world...but thou art standing where I am about to shoot.

 

RE: Last Pas by David Vorhis, posted on May 19, 2017 at 05:16:12
1973shovel
Audiophile

Posts: 10117
Location: Greenville SC
Joined: February 25, 2007
 I see a couple of contenders, but I'm not spotting it, Mark. My first choice was the piece directly above the turntable, but that looks too short to be a PAS chassis. Not that it couldn't have been built in something else though.

The gold unit next to that looks like a possibility, but the number of knobs doesn't equate. I built mine with one knob for the volume control, and three small switches; Line Stage/Phono, two auxiliary inputs (functional when first switch is in "Line Stage" position), and a Stereo/Mono switch.

I don't see the mammoth filament cap bank sitting behind any of them, which is also hindering my search for yours.

You're going to have to tell me which one it is.



 

RE: Last Pas by David Vorhis, posted on May 20, 2017 at 13:33:22
mark.korda@myfairpoint.net
Audiophile

Posts: 1253
Location: Maine
Joined: August 16, 2011
 Hi Shovel,
I don't know what to tell you but the wiring is from the Last PAS. I know what you mean about the big cap banks, mine came without them...I saw them in the article.
It's in the middle. I traded an extra PAS to a new friend from the old Audiomart. He wired the preamp and a Stereo 70 Purist Audio mod for me. In return I made up a faceplate.
I went to a trophy store and had a little brass plate made up that said (Modification by Bob Gates) just big enough to cover the tone controls. A little strip of wood covers 2 slide switches. I only have on/off and tape monitor. I ran out of PAS-2 knobs so I used some from a SCA-80Q or PAT-4. It used to be spit -shine bright but now may look like Grandpa Munsters old little dusty Eico.
I still talk to Bob all the time, an audio penpal from the early eighties. He was room mates in college or the Air Force with Jim Aud who runs Purist Audio. If something differs from the original Last PAS it's okay with me. I look in awe at some of his soldering.
I know a year ago you tried to show me how to send a picture, I still have the instructions written down. Well Vinnie made it simple enough for simply me to do it now....but he might of awakened a sleeping giant as now I could attack with quirky audio project pictures much like the boring slide shows Fred Rutherford projects for the Cleavers...take care Mark K.

 

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