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Follow Ups:
how does capacitor polarity work with this? Don't you need one end to be a positive and one end to be a negative?
do you just twist both leads together and solder it to the corresponding tab?
could I bundle caps in parallel to get to desired value - ie connect three 22 uF caps to get to 66 uF and solder the tied together the leads to the flange?
Hi, AJ:
Superb instructional!
Richard Links
Berkeley, CA
Really nice result and nicely keeps the original looks. 50 new cans, very interesting. Will you do rebuilds for others such as myself who has neither the ability, tools or time to to it. I for one would end up trying and having a nice parts unit for sale as I'd just screw it all up. I've got a few units needing the PS and output caps replaced.
Hi Brian,
It was not really my intent to solicit for any work. If you're really stuck & can't do it yourself I can put some cans together for you. I doubt you'll get a regular service tech to do this work as it is a bit of PITA but the results are good for those pieces that merit it.
You can also find replacement cans at Antique Radio Supply. Vibroworld does rebuilds as well(but they are not original looking), although I think Vibroworld has shut down operations for some reason or other. There is also some Radio Ham type who does this somewhere in the Midwest of the USA although I can't think of the name right now. I don't care for his method though. As I recall, he uses aluminum tape to seal the can back up. This ok for a can that has a cardboard sleeve but for us audio nuts I don't like the look...saves a bunch of time though.
Most cans can be rebuilt easily with 3 caps, 4 cap cans can be tricky depending on height.
Here's a pic of my SP-3A-1 with 6 cans replaced/rebuilt. This vintage of ARC pre's are notorious for can failures (3 were gone in mine). The lack of this type of can form factor is the reason ARC offers it $1000USD upgrade for the SP-3. For some of the values in the ARC I had to use a completely different method..... that's another tutorial!
>
Thanks, I'll keep you in mind for when I decide to tackle some of these projects. ARC, yeech! Though no problem with my SP-3A1 when I owned it as it was new then, I owned a pair of D76A amps and they went through caps as quickly as tubes. ARC replaced 1 set in each amp before I bought them and then 2 sets while I owned them and then I decided to go outside of ARC's parts for the 3rd set and that helped.
What did you use in this particular case?
all the best,
mrh
Hello,
In this case they are Nichicon UPW low impedence 105degree caps. Panasonic makes nice caps too. 350v and 450v radials are easily available in 10uf,22uf,33uf,etc 500v snap-ins are available from Cornell Dublier, these are the only 500v types I've found that can fit in the cans. Some McIntosh units and the ARC pre's use 500v types.
I like Allied (their print catalog is the best), Mouser and Digi-key for parts.
Of course we're talking preservation to original detail here. For non-valuable pieces I'd look at polylpropylenes and oil types for more refined sound.
AJ
Just curious. It appears to have had no hot terminals soldered, and no ground tabs twisted.Great work.
Edits: 10/07/08
Sharp eye, I like to pull the original units and keep them aside .I use a replacement can for the rebuild. It's easier with no twisted tabs to re-insert and do a neater job without cracking the mounting plate. A new can is not absolutely necessary as long as you're careful with the ground tabs.
I picked up a box of 50 NOS cans from a local electronics shop for $5 I have a lifetime supply!
AJ
great info. what kind of glue for the end cap? The same 12 minute epoxy?
thanks in advance,
roN
Hello,
I use the same 12 minute epoxy. A little glue on the end of a q-tip or stick dabbed on the inside rim of the flange, then the cap slipped on and clamped, that it!
AJ
v
I've tossed those big cans away before, mostly because they were literally leaking some very nasty-looking stuff - what did you use/how did you clean out the innards? - were there discrete, um, pieces, or just globby tar?
Nice work, though - the whole thing looks very swank
Hi,
Never had tar leak out of the inside of these type of cans, although some cans do have paper sleeves that are held in place with a blob of tar at the top the inside sleeve.
Here is what is inside a typical can:
The "innards" simply twist off and get thrown in the trash. The real chore is picking away at the inside base phenolic to allow the can to slip nicely in the flange. A little reaming of the inside flange base with a utility knife is necesscary to affect this.
Good Luck,
AJ
nt
*
Great pics and tutorial! I have number of pieces of gear (Marantz and other) that need this kind of help. Much appreciated.
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