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Hi,
I need help with a preamp cap upgrade!
Preamp: modified Conrad Johnson PV12
Power amp: Odyssey stratos extreme monoblocks
Speakers: Vienna Acoustics BeethovenThe CJ preamp is very detailed BUT the bass, the punch, the WEIGHT of my music are lacking (pop and rock, e.g. the Beatles). Mids and highs are pretty and accurate but can be slightly bleached out.
The CJ (original) output caps are 2.0uF, 250VDC polystyrene.
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ISSUE: Which output caps? Vcaps? Sonicaps? Auricaps?
----------------------------------------------------------I WANT: seriously correct timing (i.e., my music MUST GROOVE), bass authority, bass and midbass WEIGHT, punch, in-the-room presence of drum whacks, overall naturalness, human-sounding vocals, soundstage depth.
I DON'T WANT: airy, transparent, detail-detail-detail, enhanced treble, hi-fi sounding.
Suggestions?
Edits: 05/31/09 05/31/09Follow Ups:
...not polystyene.
Any others with a view about the best popular cap for my desired warm, bass-punchy sound?
Thanks,
Hukk
What is the input impedance of your power amp?
You got me curious!
Hukk
...is parallel with the (output) load resistor of the preamp, and that paralleled impedance determines the filterpoint of the output cap. The lower that resistance, the HIGHER the filter point. That's one reason others are suggesting you increase the size of your preamp's output caps. The higher value the output cap, the lower the filter point.
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Tin-eared audiofool and parttime landscape fotografer.
http://community.webshots.com/user/jeffreybehr
Thank you -
OK what is a filter point, and why is it good to make it lower?
Hukk
.... which I am told, is unusually low, with many modern SS power amps having 50,000 or 100,000 these days.
I have Odyssey Stratos Extreme monoblock power amps.
Thanks for any help,
Hukk
I have done extensive testing of various input caps for a T-Amp. There should be a one-to-one correlation for the output caps for a preamp to that of input caps to a T-Amp. Imbedded in the Capacitor test are other capacitor tests. My tests are economical capacitors (including electrolytics), while some of the other referenced tests include expensive boutique capacitors.
First, polypropylene will yield a much better presentation than a polyester cap. There are any number of more costly capacitor topologies, but polypropylene is a good middle of the road audiophile quality capacitor.
I suggest you try 1.0 MFD film caps from Radio Shack (RS) for starters. You can start with (2) 1.0 MFD caps wired in parallel. This will replicate the 2.0 caps you currently have. If you desire more bass add another 1.0 MFD capacitor in parallel. Once you get what you want in the way of bass weight (i.e. the total capacitance) then you may choose to try other caps. The RS caps are readily available for a great number of readers.
I strongly suggest Auricaps, which is my personal favorite, but I find the Radio Shack caps very close in presentation at little cost.
If you have specific questions regarding caps I tested you may message me directly. I hope this helps.
DaveT
You may be getting a bit rolled off in the low frequencies. More C could be what you seek but....
If it were me, in order to avoid making more than one change at a time, I'd want to try a larger capacitance of the same technology, manufacturer, voltage and tolerance rating. If you have then determined you have solved the frequency response issues with a capacitance value change then go on to try and roll different manufacturers and technologies. But that may just be me.
Thanks very much for any opinions.
Hukk
only make electrolytics. You certainly shouldn't use electrolytics for coupling duties.
Now, other posters have suggested increasing the value of the coupling caps (input and output) as this will make the intrinsic roll off lower. This is certainly something you can try ... but maybe the make of amp you have is simply ... bass-shy compared to others?
Regards,
Andy
Have you considered a valve change?
I've tried at least 2 dozen various valves
Thanks
Natural=Duelund
Weight+Depth+Bass Authority=Claritycap MR
Thanks.
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