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Model: | Power Port Premier |
Category: | Accessory |
Suggested Retail Price: | $99 |
Description: | AC Receptacle |
Manufacturer URL: | PS Audio |
Review by Deaf Ear on October 30, 2008 at 13:51:22 IP Address: 70.247.99.189 | Add Your Review for the Power Port Premier |
DISCLOSURE
I was in the right place at the right time. About a month ago I entered a competition announced in PS Audio's monthly newsletter. Ten lucky and wide-eyed contestants would each win a Soloist In-Wall Power Conditioner if their names were drawn from a cyber-hat. All they had to do was to agree to supply a few photos of the installation and write a couple of paragraphs about what they thought of the device--good or bad.
I've never had much luck with this sort of lottery, and lo, this time was no exception... I got confirmation of my ongoing haplessness in a "Dear Loser" mass-mailing from PSA's VP of Sales & Marketing, Dave Kakenmaster. There was a chink of light however. Mr Kakenmaster went on to say how astonished the company was at the overwhelming response to the competition. Back at PSA HQ they were wringing their hands and gnashing their teeth in remorse over disappointing so many people, he said (more-or-less). He continued: would we--The Inconsolable--be interested in a half-priced Soloist as a token of comfort?
Well it just so happens that I've been hankering after a Soloist for some time now, so my grieving soon evaporated. Unfortunately this hankering clashes with my new position in life. Perhaps you've heard of me? I'm the living embodiment of the credit crunch. I'm the guy without a job who wakes up in a lathery sweat to stare at the ceiling for a few hours each night. I'm the one whose hair is singed by the white-hot heat of his blazing savings. But enough about me; let's get back to the story...
I ask Vice President Dave if there's a time-limit on the Soloist offer because I'm a little cash-strapped at the moment. I also mention that--in a convoluted sort of way--the half-price deal's better for me because I want to modify the Soloist by replacing its on-board Power Port with an Oyaide duplex that I'd heard (and was impressed by) on a friend's system. If I'd won the competition, I'd've had to install the Soloist as-is to make my appraisal, then my inner sloth would've kicked-in and the socket would've stayed in the wall 'til doomsday. With my Losers Compensation Package, I could get the Soloist and the extras I needed for mods for just a little more than the stock price of the Soloist itself, and I could take my time and do it right. This caught the interest of Our Man. He turned all cloak-and-dagger and confided that PS Audio were just about to launch the Power Port Premier, and because I'd said the right things at the right time, he'd like to send a complimentary receptacle for me to assess. I complained long-and-hard about the inconvenience and the indignity, but I eventually relented because he'd used complementary, one of my favorite words in the English language. I was duly sworn to secrecy.
So that's my disclosure. It's not exactly collusion and I'm not quite in the pocket of my PS Audio Paymasters, but I have been given this product free--to have and to hold--by the company that makes and markets it, and you must filter my review with this knowledge if you suspect that somewhere a Koolaid detector might be flashing red. In fairness to PS Audio, no-one asked me to write a formal review--they just wanted to hear what I thought of their new product. I, myself, am only stirred to write reviews when a product suitably impresses me--and I am very impressed with PS Audio's Power Port Premier. Thus:
IN THE BEGINNING
I've been using the Power Port Ordinaire since it was introduced in 2003. Back in the day, there didn't seem to be a whole lot of widely-available competition: it was either a hospital grade outlet or the PP. Nor was there much sympathy for the duplex pioneer: slated and reviled by A-Volt-Is-A-Volt bully-boys, it was generally something you kept quiet about unless you wanted to be the target of belittling laughter. I artfully reconstituted the truth when telling Mrs Deaf Ear how much I paid for my original PP, simply to avoid an evening of hard stares and head-shaking. The PP was a decent receptacle (and it still performs quite well) but it could be a little brittle-sounding in certain situations, and required careful cable matching. Nowadays the market is broader and the lynch-mobs have dispersed enough to allow more socket obsessives to come out of the closet.
I'm by no means au fait with the full gamut of the market stall, but the Power Port Premier (henceforth the P3) is quite the loveliest AC receptacle I've ever seen. It may seem odd to fetishize such a utilitarian object, but it's obvious a lot of thought and care has gone into its design and manufacture. The in-depth details can be found on the PS Audio website, but to summarize:I know a certain amount of soft-focus, feel-good, promotional rhetoric is necessary to raise public awareness favorably, but to me 'hand crafted' conjures visions of a cottage industry of dusky-haired maidens lovingly assembling P3s on their inner thighs. Admittedly, some Freudian leakage of my own may have permeated this image...
- Every piece of metal is machined from the highest purity non-ferrous material available (pure copper and beryllium for the contacts).
- Each metal part is machined, polished, direct gold plated, and polished again.
- The body is cast out of PBT (Polybutylene Terephthalate): a semi-crystalline material that has an extremely low dielectric constant, and is rated to insulate from spikes of over 20-thousand volts.
- They are 15 or 20 amp ready.
- Each unit is hand crafted.
IN THE HOLE
Installation is easy. It took me 15-minutes, and that included 5-minutes looking for a screwdriver. I finished up and checked my handiwork with a Sperry Circuit Analyzer and thought I had a problem: I couldn't plug it in. I squinted down the holes to see if there was a blockage and saw nothing, so I tried again, and a little harder. With what seemed like an alarming amount of force, I finally got the tester home. Back in 2003, the original Power Port used the slogan: "The Grip of Mickey Mantle" to describe the clenching-power of the outlet on the plug's blades. Five years later, the P3 is more like Mr Mantle on steroids after a large oatmeal breakfast.
IN THE MEANTIME
The P3 is a real pig when you first connect it. The sound is traumatic. It is glassy; there is no bass; there are no dynamics; there is a virtual absence of inner detail and texture to individual instruments; there is a midrange gloop where indistinct things mush together; but worse... much worse is something I can't even talk about because it seems to be inaudible. Every time I entered the listening room during those early days there was a feeling of stressful panic. I can't explain it better and there's no other way to describe it. It would start with me realizing that I was screwing my face up to try and ward off some unseen nastiness. Then my shoulders would tense up and my back would tighten. Physical reactions to hi-fi?! Lord help me! I put my Isotek burn-in CD on repeat, fled the room, and scheduled an exorcism. I returned periodically throughout the next 48-hours to check on the progress and sprinkle holy water, but only slight differences were noticeable. Time to call in the big guns!
I'm using the P3 on a 2-channel system with a moderate power draw. I can run my whole rig off one P-1000 Power Plant, that is, I only really need one socket of a duplex to make everything work. To bring this misery to a swifter conclusion, I decided to run a long extension cable and route my fridge through the new duplex: the fridge claimed the bottom berth, and my hi-fi sat up top: music & coolin' 24/7! Can you tell my wife was out of town?
Be in no doubt that this works! Some deft plug-juggling showed that when the sockets were switched, the one that had been feeding the fridge sounded consistently superior to the one that had fed the hi-fi. Another unexpected side-effect was that when the fridge was powered by the P3, my beer stayed colder longer and tasted less fatiguing, while salads seemed more dimensional and had greater inner detail. Whodathunkit?
All joking aside, with nothing much else to do but sit and wait, I enjoyed some quality navel-gazing. I got to thinking that it might not be a bad idea to periodically run the fridge from my new duplex--not simply to drive the P3 harder, but to give the romex in the wall a bit of a workout. I'm sure it could benefit from the occasional conditioning just like any other cable. I plan to make it part of my regular maintenance schedule.
All-in-all I ran the fridge for 14-days through the new P3. The ugly part of the break-in time is about 21-days and the last 7-of those are bearable, but it's still a bit of a beast. Walk this path of trial and tribulation with diligence and patience, however, and your rewards will be multiplied manyfold.
IN THE END
I'd love to be able to tell you that I've tried a wide range of receptacles from the far-flung corners of the globe, but the truth is that my experience is pretty limited. I've heard the Oyaide R-1 on a friend's system, and while the improvements he's enjoying on his system seem to parallel those that I'm experiencing with my P3 on mine, a head-to-head shoot-out is obviously not possible. My history is as follows: back in 2002 (or so) I tried a Pass & Seymore hospital grade receptacle as recommended by the sadly missed Bob Crump here on this very Asylum, and I found it to be a great improvement over the disposable widget that came with our house. PS Audio's first Power Port came next for me, and that was a sizable step-up over the Pass & Seymour. I am delighted to report that 6-years later, PS Audio's new Power Port Premier is so good that it takes the original Power Port over its knee and soundly spanks its arse (and I don't expect to see that quote used for promotional purposes anytime soon). It's not even close! But I sense you need a more objective, less figurative set of comparisons to better envision the merits of the P3...
Compared to the original Power Port, the Premier casts an image that is:IN CONCLUSION
- Bigger, better, wider, more focused and more powerful. There is a useful but hackneyed hi-fi adage which likens any perceived change in soundstage to the proximity of the listener to the musicians at a performance venue. This analogy works here, and I can equate the change from the PP#1 to the P3 to moving from seats in row G-or-H, to front row center. Front row center is normally closer that I would care to sit in a real-life concert, but happily the sound is never 'in your face', and there's a curious intimacy with the performers which I've never experienced before. This is not to say that you lose all sense of room ambience: all the information is presented beautifully, it's just that you seem to be closer to the action.
- Cleaner and more detailed. Oh come on! You knew you were going to hear at least one of these sooner-or-later:
The drawback of clichés is that you can feel the reader's eyes rolls heavenward as you write. The advantage of clichés is that everybody knows what you're talking about and you don't have to re-invent the wheel. So for the sake of brevity, let's just consider the aforementioned grimy, noisy, veils laundered, and move on. What always surprises me is that there is even room for improvement here. I have a very revealing hi-fi. I can hear bucket-loads of inner details and ambient cues. When something comes along that significantly improves what I had before, I'm always a bit amazed and excited. For example, every audiophile is familiar with that happy experience of discovering new details on familiar recordings when they make positive changes to their system--extra nuances, more distinct harmonizing and the like. Well it's been a long time since I had that happen to me, simply because my rig reveals most things already, but with the P3, I'm happy to report a couple of new-found instances that bucked this trend!
- It was as if a veil was lifted; and/or
- It sounded like a few layers of grime were removed; and/or
- The noise floor dropped to vanishingly low levels.
It would be wrong to place too much emphasis on these incidentals since they imply that the sound became more analytical--nothing could be further from the truth. Things just became more transparent and natural. Just be thankful I didn't mention the window on the recording studio...
- Towards the end of the break-in period, I was playing Jon Balke's Kyanos and the track Nano drew attention to itself because the percussion seemed to lack a bit of punch as compared to the rest of the album--then it became clear the drummer was playing his kit flat-handed, bongo style (I'm sure there must be a musical expression for this, but flat-handed, bongo style will do between you and I). I'd never noticed this before. Cool!
- As a some-time bass player, another rare discovery for me was found in Carla Bley, Andy Sheppard and Steve Swallow's album Songs With Legs. With the P3 on board, you could tell that when the trio upped the tempo, bassist Swallow switched from picking every note with his right hand, to picking every alternate note with his right, and hammering down with the fingers of his left for the others. I know I've just exposed myself as a sad, friendless, bass geek, but that simple revelation sparked a marathon practice session. I haven't been driven or motivated to do that for years!
- Slightly warmer. PP#1 lies nearer the lean, if not quite chilly side of the sound spectrum. I wouldn't say the P3 is warm, it's just more luscious in its presentation as compared to PP#1. The P3's actually pretty neutral, but compared to the PP#1 it's also more lovable...
- More musical. I'm a fraud: I'm not an audiophile at all. I don't generally suffer gear lust, and component shoot-outs are a chore rather than a happy pastime. Give me a good tune and the equipment's forgotten. All of the above analytical observations are well-and-good, but how these bits-and-pieces coalesce into a musical performance is the most important thing for me. And since I've been bandying personal disclosures around, let me throw in a few more: I'm not prone to hallucinations, delusions, or flights of fancy. I take no recreational or prescription drugs, nor do I think I need to. I am not under medical supervision of any kind (but I haven't got medical insurance, so take that how you will) yet lately I've found myself highly animated in front of my stereo, whoopin' and hollerin' in appreciation of the performers. I've been applauding solos and (heaven forfend) dancing! I'm not simply marveling at the technical ability of the players--although brash bravura is not masked if it is naturally present. It's the virtuoso musicians that have caught my ear, with their mature, assured, capable expression. With the P3 in the chain, my system delivers a performance that is light years beyond the notes and the spaces. It is so involving that it virtually channels emotion; my brain is bypassed and my heart is pierced directly. Yeah, sure that's over-the-top, but my enthusiasm for what has happened to my set-up since the inclusion of the P3 has brought out the excitable side of my nature; I'll take a deep breath... Musical expression is the be all and end all for me, and the P3 delivers it in spades. It gels, it sings, it swings, it's laugh-out-loud fantastic... This thing's got soul!
My time with the P3 has shown me that no true audiophile can afford to ignore the socket that feeds his system--the benefits of upgrading are too profound. There are a few manufacturers of quality products out there vying for your cash and consideration. I've heard some, but I can only speak authoritatively about the Power Port Premier... and its performance is stellar!
Given that you can buy a rattly 99¢ sparker at Home Depot, the one-hundred times more expensive Power Port Premier may appear to be audio-extravagance in the extreme, after all, a volt is just a volt, right? Well, patently not. Obviously the premium parts aren't just empty bling, and are chosen for practicable purposes. The fact that the performance delivered is way beyond the capital outlay, kinda turns the whole audio-jewelry notion on its head--in fact dollar-for-dollar the P3 may be the greatest value improvement I've ever heard in my system. An outrageous blandishment you think? I can go further! The P3 might be the perfect antidote to upgraditis in these recessionary times. Need to get your your hi-fi fix, but can't afford that shiny new unit and a clutch of mortgage payments? A Power Port Premier may be the only change you'll need! In performance terms it easily equates to a major component upgrade. The P3 is not a flamboyant extravagance--it is a bloody bargain!
The P3 need not be considered a refinement to your system, although it functions superbly in that role. Rather, it should be seen as a foundation; a fundamental; square one. If you get the basics right, everything else will fall into place naturally, and the evidence of my time with the P3 seems to suggest that fitting a high quality duplex should be the starting point of your hi-fi journey. It elicits the best out of everything connected to it. For me, all downstream components seemed to benefit, including my Power Plant, which I'd previously considered to be the top of my electricity chain. No leap of faith is required to understand why you are hearing such first-class sonics: it's simply down to good design, high quality materials, labor-intensive craftsmanship and pride in manufacture. PS Audio should be rightly pleased with themselves... even a little smug!
The Power Port Premier is one of those how-did-I-ever-live-without-it products that has forced me to re-evaluate what I think is important in hi-fi. It should be on every serious audiophile's audition list, and if I'd paid any pennies for it, it would've been worth every one! But you don't need to take my word for it. Like all of their products, PS Audio will let you audition a P3 for 30-days, and if you don't like any aspect of it, you can ship it back to them for a full refund of the retail price... I bet you keep it though!
IN THE FUTURE
Creeping doubt is the inner bugaboo that stalks even the most outwardly tranquil of audiophiles, and while I like to think that I'm only in it for the music (and to hell with the equipment), the notion that something better may be just within reach froths my fragile serenity. So now I gotta get me a Soloist, mod it with the P3 and get the whole package cryo'd! I've got $12.56 saved towards my half-priced deal. I hope this recession ends soon...
Product Weakness: | Stressful break-in time |
Product Strengths: | Very high quality manufacture; excellent value for money |
Amplifier: | Rick Cullen Stage-2 modified PS Audio GCC-100 |
Preamplifier (or None if Integrated): | n/a |
Sources (CDP/Turntable): | Modwright Sony NS-999ES CD/SACD player with Signature Truth Mods and PS 9.0 power supply |
Speakers: | Infinity Intermezzo 2.6 powered loudspeakers & Infinity Intermezzo 1.2 powered subwoofer |
Cables/Interconnects: | PS Audio/Acoustic Zen |
Music Used (Genre/Selections): | Jazz, orchestral, experimental, folk, rock |
Room Size (LxWxH): | 40 x 20 x 8 |
Room Comments/Treatments: | Plants and rugs |
Time Period/Length of Audition: | 6-weeks |
Other (Power Conditioner etc.): | Rick Cullen Stage-2 modified PS Audio P-1000 Power Plant |
Type of Audition/Review: | Product Owner |
Installed one of the original PPts yesterday. Installed it. Immediately didn't like it at all. Much like DeafEar's initial response. Really harsh, bright, grainy, lousy soundstage and strange focus.
Sent an email to the company and got a response within 24 hours. They asked me to let it burn in for 200 hours and try another listen. I will do that at somepoint. Due to the brittle sound, I removed the PPt and put the PS audio outlet on the line powering my subwoofer. After a few months, I will switch it out and see if it sounds different on my main system.
Went to Mennards and replaced main setup outlet with a Pass and Seymour 20 amp wall outlet for another $10 bucks.
I swear...it is possible to hear the difference in wall outlets if you have a highly resolving system. I am totally serious, even though this was my first time messing with outlets to determine the effects, if any, on sound quality.
My main rationale for messing with the outlet in the first place was to increase the tension/conductivity of the outlet to the Emotiva amp I have. I thought a better outlet would allow it to "pull the AC more efficiently."
Dear wonderment,
Please don't take offense, but I do not understand why would you:
1) Select a receptacle (original PP) that has been overwhelmingly rejected as harsh and un-musical by many on this forum
2) Declare with astonishment that the effects of receptacles are audible as though no one will believe you
If you want to try some (relatively) inexpensive and good-sounding receptacles, I suggest the cryo'd Hubbells sold by Jena Labs and Albert Porter for around $30. For a little more, the Synergistic Research Teslaplex is fantastic and currently my receptacle of choice. Oyaides are a big favorite of many.
Please dismiss any doubt that you may have that switching receptacles, even very good ones, will alter the sound of your system significantly. Those that would argue this have either not actually performed comparisons or have other system issues that need priority.
Best,
Dave
Understand. Been there. Welcome to the asylum. :)
Well, the answer is...I just posted for the first time to this forum AFTER seeing this review AFTER I bought the outlet. So, I have not until now learned about all the other outlet recommendations.
This area is a new one for me. Kind of bought the outlet on a whim, so not much research was done prior.
Hi wonderment,
Here's a link with some good receptacle talk...
Hi wonderment,
Yup! A new outlet is a painful thing!
If I may make a suggestion though: instead of putting the PP#1 on the subwoofer socket, put it on your fridge! Your fridge runs a heavy load 24/7 and will break-in your PP faster than your sub. Leave it for 2-3 weeks instead of a few months--if at the end of that time you still don't like it, you'll still be within the 30-day trial period and you can send it back for a refund (if you bought it new) or sell it on. There are different characteristics for different outlets (as you've already found with the P&S) and a certain amount of tuning is possible through trial-and-error. Keeping the cost down is a must (for me, at least)
Just a suggestion. :-)
DE
Correction: Power Port.
Very nice review and a good read. What can I say but it's about time PS Audio caught up with the competition and developed a high end AC Duplex. To be fair, the Power port was the 1st high end duplex I had tried and it did indeed make my system sound clearer but at the expense of being too bright & harsh. I presently have a gold 20a Furutech in my dedicated circuit and am very happy. Chances are I'll never try this Power Port or an Oyaide as I don't expect the gains would be worth the expense at this point in my system. It's good to see tho that PS Audio has been paying attention to duplex improvements in the industry and has acted accordingly. :)
Cheers,
Robin
Thanks Robin, Your kind comments are very much appreciated.
Yeah, it's difficult to see me chopping-and-changing either. The P3 is so good in my setup that the chances of screwing things up seem greater than the chances of gaining a slight improvement, so I'll probably leave well alone for the time being. That sets a bad precedent for an avowed tweaker, but sometimes you have to recognize when enough's enough... :-)
The Power Port wasn't a bad product, but I agree it could be bright and harsh. It was very fussy about which cables you connected to it and (surprise! surprise!) I found PS Audio's own brand to work best here. The P3 is by far the better product, though.
The thing is: when do you stop? I've got a P-1000 Power Plant that has five old Power Ports round the back. Will things get even better if I replace them? My experience with the first P3 suggests yes, but My God! The price! It's thoughts like that that'll kill ya every time :-0
Thanks again
DE
If you have something to say, get to the point. Damnation! I'm sick of the equipment reviews that are mainly an outlet for the author's literary,(web-authoring),frustrations. There is a lot of Narcissism here I dare say. Examples include Stereophile and TAS. Paul Gowan himself would do well to loose the verbosity; (I am subscribing to his newletter thus far). If I wanted literary, I'd read New Yorker Magazine or something.Basically I'm buggered if I can't see why a $15 hospital-grade receptical wouldn't work as well as one of these. Use a little Deoxit when installing and occassionally on the socket and plug.
___
Feanor's Classical Survey: 250 Exemplary Compositions
Edits: 11/02/08 11/02/08 11/02/08
Hi Feanor, thanks for overcoming your inner revulsion of words to read my post. Your effort is much appreciated! :-)Basically I'm buggered if I can't see why a $15 hospital-grade receptical wouldn't work as well as one of these.
Don't worry. You don't need to anally abuse yourself, and there's no need to bulge the veins on your forehead trying to work it out mentally. A simple empirical test of your own could cure your cerebral constipation. Find a manufacturer of high quality sockets (PS Audio, Furutech or Oyaide are my recommendations) that will give you a free in-house trial, and see for yourself the extraordinary benefits to be had, at no risk to your wallet. You already know that better quality sockets exist, otherwise you wouldn't be extolling the virtues of hospital grade receptacles. All I'm suggesting is that another leap of awareness is available to you!
FWIW My understanding of the situation is this: The best socket is no socket. A plug/receptacle interface can't improve the quality of your electricity: at best it can screw it up as little as possible. Unfortunately, but quite sensibly, electrical code in most countries forbids the hard-wiring of your equipment into the grid, so solutions have to be found to lessen the negative aspects of the compromise. To do this you have to improve the coupling.
PS Audio's approach is:
High quality parts + labor-intensive construction doesn't usually = cheap in my experience.
- To use high purity copper and beryllium in place of brass because those metals are better conductors.
- To polish every metal surface several times because a microscopically pitted surface will cause micro-arcing, which in turn creates EMI/RFI. Polish those pits to a mirror-like shine and the improvements are remarkable!
- To direct gold plate the contacts because gold doesn't tarnish much in air, thus lessening the need for Deoxit.
- To cast the body from a material with an extremely low dielectric constant to isolate the conductors and improve transmission.
- To have super-tight gripping power!
I have found the most extraordinary improvements from (in hi-fi terms) a relatively inexpensive product and I'm enthused enough to want to tell people about it. But this is not an article of faith. You don't have to believe anything I say. Experience it for free for 30-days, and if you don't like it after that time, send it back and write your own counter-review. :-)
I sincerely hope this helps! And relax . Some people are wordier than others... there's no need to take it personally. :-)
DE
Edits: 11/02/08
No matter what you post, someone will complain about it. :-)
Hi Feenor,
Personally, I enjoyed this review tremendously, finding myself laughing several times during its reading.
As for the difference between a SOTA receptacle vs a standard one, you should buy both and compare in your system, especially since PS Audio offers a 30 day money-back trial. I think you will be astonished.
By the way, many of the hospital grade receptacles have been found to provide worse sound that standard versions. Most of the design attributes that make a receptacle 'hospital grade' are not the ones that benefit audio.
crossram says, " By the way, many of the hospital grade receptacles have been found to provide worse sound that standard versions. Most of the design attributes that make a receptacle 'hospital grade' are not the ones that benefit audio. "
I'll confess I don't know what these attribute are. I hope you will explain them.
It is my habit to try only those tweaks that seem plausible. I'm missing what makes $100 wall sockets plausible -- yes, I have read PS Audio's blurb (despite the verbosity). But I'd be glad to be enlightened
___
Feanor's Classical Survey: 250 Exemplary Compositions
Hi Feanor (sorry about this mispelling earlier),
The main attributes that differentiate hospital grade receptacles from standard ones are: 1) High Tension blade wipes to provide maximum contact area between the plug blades and the receptacle (good for audio) and 2) Special composition plastics for the receptacle body to withstand chemicals (not helpful for audio). There may be others, but I don't think they are important in this context.
The main thing that differentiates good audio receptacles from standard or even hospital grade versions is the type of metals used in the wipes, the terminals, and the backplate. Also, using certain plastic composites for the receptacle body provides vibration reduction.
Both PS Audio and Oyaide use beryllium copper base metals, PBT bodies, and multiple plating and polishing steps. Oyaide makes 4 different receptacles, each plating the beryllium copper with different combinations of metals (gold, platinum, rhodium, beryllium) to provide compatibitility to the different metals used in the male plugs of different power cords and also to tailor the resulting sound to your taste.
It escapes me why a lot of folks have so much trouble accepting that improving the quality of the incoming AC flow will make significant differences in the performance of their equipment. After all, the only function of audio equipment is to convert random electrons coming from the AC line to accurate electrical waveforms to send to your speakers.
One of the most common challenges to the benefits of power cords and other power enhancements is that the power coming in from the outdoor transformer to your fuse box and then through low grade-wiring to the receptacles is so poor, so how can 'the last five or six feet" make any difference?
It was explained to me one time that the flow of electrons coming from the public utility can be compared to water molecules in a raging whitewater river with a lot of turbulence. If you were to insert a smooth tube at the base of the river that was sufficiently long, the turbulence of the water would dissipate over the lenght of the this tube to the point where it would exit the tube flowing calmly (thus calming the movement of the water molecules) into a pool at the bottom. Good power cord designs do the same to electrons, reducing their agitated state and uncontrolled energy from the wall to the component and therfore providing a more friendly AC signal to the power supply. Audio receptacles optimize the conversion of electrons from the metallurgy of the house wiring (usually Romex) to the metallurgy that is optimally compatible to the metals in the cords plugs.
All I know for sure is that all this makes a huge improvement in the sound of my system.
Best,
Dave
Hospital-grade outlets have thick steel back straps for added strength. The power wires pass on either side of the back strap on any but the cheapest of outlets (that have no back strap). When the back strap is made of steel, it becomes the core of a one-turn inductor. Thicker steel increases the amount of core material and increases the inductance.
Since this inductor is a parasitic device and there is no attention to the magnetic properties of the steel used to make the back strap, it is not surprising this property of the outlet is detrimental to audio equipment performance. The easy but somewhat dangerous way to evaluate this for yourself is to place a strong ceramic magnet on the strap (Warning: AC is dangerous and the magnet may conduct electricity and cause a fire if you cause a short-circuit.) This will not eliminate the problem, but it will make the magnetic behavior of the steel more linear and reduce the effect on the audio performance.
The audiophile outlets have back straps made of brass or bronze, so they eliminate the extra inductance caused by the steel back strap. They also avoid use of steel screws or other parts.
Any outlet with a metal back strap that is mounted in a steel wiring box will still have some unwanted coupling of the AC current to a metal loop comprised of the back strap and the metal box. This loop can be broken by replacing one of the fixing screws with a Nylon screw and Nylon washer. This tweak works especially well with the audiophile outlets. For new installations, I recommend plastic wiring boxes and nonmagnetic stainless steel screws.
FWIW, The Hubbel and P&S hospital outlets 8200,8300,8200H,8300H all have brass backstraps and contacts. Indeed the larger Hubbell does nickel plate its strap, but its permeability is orders of maginitude less than that of steel backstrap.
:)
Indeed, the Leviton hospital receptacles have plated ferrous straps, which do comply with Federal Specification WC-596, section 3.5.1, as do the Hubbel and P&S with their brass straps, which would minimize your purported magnetic hokey pokey.
But honestly Al, who but the most inexperieced and tin eared would even mention a Leviton outlet if they'd ever bothered to listen to one? Even the all brass Leviton 5262 sounds like poo.
FWIW
The brass parts are listed as nickel plated in the Hubbell documentation (HBL8300*).
This is a problem for audio use, as nickel plating causes problems with the electrical contacts to these parts. Audiophile outlets generally have various exotic plating schemes that do not include nickel. This is another reason why hospital-grade outlets do not work well for resolving audio systems.
Have you forgotten your earlier post?
I did not say I preferred hospital-grade outlets, and the Leviton is why I haven't bothered with other brands in pursuit of better audio performance.
The magnetic response is a real issue, and can easily be heard by anyone with the inclination to actually try the experiment. Brass straps would avoid the back strap problem.
The porter ports sound great. I like them better then Oyaide which are nice but they really to add their sound to a system.
PJB
Agree with you on that one Doc.
Phil,
I appreciate the info. I've just ordered a HBL8200H to compare against the HBL5262. I've previosly auditioned P&S 8200H, 9300H, and found the sound much like the P&S 5262A, not bad, but not my cuppa.
Now that the HBL8200H is on it way, I too will be able to make pronouncements on how ALL hospital receptacles sound.
Regards,
Paul
Hi Paul,
According to the Hubbell catalog, the 8200H is a GFCI outlet. Don't think your going to find great sound there. Sorry!
Sorry dude. The HBL8200H is NOT a CFCI receptacle (the 8200H is). My apologies for the error.
However, there may be concerns. From the Hubbell catalog:
"One piece, nickel-plated brass mounting strap with
integral ground contacts, ...".
"Exclusive bypass contacts are made of nickelplated
brass alloy."
As you likely know, nickel plating is said to be detrimental to sound. That's one reason the Porter Port is recommended - no plating.
I installed a Synergistic Research Quantum Tunneled Leviton receptacle yesterday and I am very impressed. The sound with this receptacle is very transparent and lively, and has an amazingly open soundstage, just like the SR Tesla power cords. So far, I prefer it to my new Oyaide R1 (which is still breaking in, so this could change).
Hi Al,
I anticipated that there were other unique features of hospital grade receptacles, thus my lame disclaimer, 'There may be others, but I don't think they are important in this context'.
I guess the metal backstrap issue is indeed an important one. Fortunately, I am making good progress toward replacing all non-audio grade receptacles with Oyaide on my dedicated lines and all of my outlet boxes are plastic.
But this does bring up a question: I have a couple of good-quality outlet strips whose housings are metal and use non-audio grade Hubbell receptacles. These receptacles are isolated ground models - does this control the backstrap coupling with the housing or do I need to take additional steps to eliminate this?
Thanks for improving my understanding (as always).
Best,
Dave
You should check the backs of the outlets to see if they are steel or brass. As long as the straps are continuous and fixed to the metal case at top and bottom, they will complete a circuit that couples to the AC. If they are steel, they will also act as inductor cores.
Thanks Al.
VooDoo Cable offers a cryo'd Hubbell 8300IG (isolated ground) and I notice from the pictures that the PPP is also isolated ground. Please explain what the benefit of this is.
Dave
A standard outlet connects the AC ground wire to the back strap, and thus to the metal wiring box. The steel framework of a large building may be at a slightly different potential than the AC ground. If the wiring box is attached to the steel framework, the ground loop thus created may carry large currents and upset the operation of sensitive equipment plugged in to that outlet.
An isolated-ground outlet keeps the outlet grounds attached only to the AC ground wire from the local service panel, and breaks the ground loop. The building wiring has to have another ground for the wiring box. This configuration is not something that should benefit a typical home audio system.
I'm sure some people use them to provide a separate earth connection for the audio system's AC. This is illegal and can be very dangerous. If the system AC earth connection is physically separated from the main power earth connection, a nearby lightning strike can cause brief offset voltages of several thousand volts between the two earth connection points. This is caused by very large currents flowing laterally through the earth.
This spike can flash over and destroy your equipment. Worse, it can set the remains on fire.
*
This is the best written review I have read in years, Mr. Deaf Ear. Excellent job.
Coincidently, I just installed an Oyaide R-1 today and my impressions of the positive effect it has on the sound of my system mirror many of your observations regarding the Power Point Premier. After recently spending hundreds of hours comparing some very sweet power cords on any and all of the components in my system, I 1000% (yes, one thousand percent) agree with you that receptacles are the foundation of the power delivery system and each has a fundamental effect on everything connected downstream.
Those craving to join the power-cord addicted among us would do well to heed your advice and start with a top-tier receptacle from Oyaide, Furutech, or PS Audio.
Once again, thank you for this wonderful piece of work.
Dave
Thank you Dave, your comments are much appreciated. I've had a bit of time on my hands recently, so I could afford to play around and make the post look purdy ...
It's not my natural inclination to write reviews. I have to be suitably motivated by a product to want to 'tell the world' as it were. In this case, the P3 wrought such an outstanding sonic improvement from such an unexpected direction that I couldn't keep quiet! From what I've heard of it, your Oyaide is a fine product too, and I'm glad to hear you're reaping its benefits in your own system.
The word has to be spread--there are too many audiophiles who aren't smiling enough!
Thanks again.
DE
Very nicely written review. Thanks for taking the time. Did it sound like swapping out the outlets on the Soloist be a diy tweak? Thanks Paul
Hi Solda, thanks for your kind comments.
Yes. I'll be tackling the socket swap on the Soloist myself whenever I get one. I could publish a report here if people are interested.Thanks again
DE
Edits: 11/01/08
and the rest of it too, right?
a truly incredible review.
:)
Hi Tom, thanks for stopping by.Hey this isn't a political address! My facts are checkable ;-) It really is a great product, but if you're still skeptical, try a P3 in your own system for 30-days then tell me I'm wrong: you've only got shipping costs to lose! :-)
DE
the P3 was installed in the Soloist...right?
Hi Howard, thanks for your interest in my review.To answer your question: the P3 was installed in the Soloist...right?
No, the P3 that I have is installed directly into the wall, sorry if I was unclear about that. It is in my plans to modify a Soloist with a P3, but that will have to happen sometime in the future when funds allow.
Thanks again.
DE
nt
Not on your life! It's in my wall now and it's staying there 'til I get my own Soloist... nice try though! ;-)
z
Hi HiOnFi,
I'm sure you'll enjoy it, but be prepared for a devilish first 3-weeks! :-(
DE
Bloody hell.
Your humor flew right over their heads.
So you're saying it doesn't make any difference? Bloody hell! I was flabbergasted at the difference my Oyaide WPC-Z w/SWO-XXX made. Try one from a retailer that allows returns if not satisfied.
ET
I'm on a tight budget. The Oyaide (VH Audio) receptacle that powers my old PS Audio P300 is one of the most worthwhile upgrades I ever made.
I hear ya, they aren't cheap. When you can try the cover by all means! I have a P-300 and will be adding an R-1 internally to it when I can afford it.
ET
Hi Hergest, thanks for your comments.You're an Aussie I seem to remember from your other posts. I don't know what the electricity connections are like over there, but in the US they're scary pieces of lightweight tat, and you really can hear the difference if you get a quality-made plug and/or socket. I'm Scottish myself, and I came to the US 16-years ago. Back home electrical connectors are heavy-duty and robust, and I doubt swapping them out would make an audible difference, but in the US they're one step above tin-foil.
Bloody hell right enough...
DE
... Bloody Hell just the same.
Product Strengths: ~ excellent value for money - especially when you don’t pay for it!
Smile
Sox
... and yes, perhaps it does sound sweeter when you don't pay for it! I'm grinning from ear-to-ear.Since you're more openly patriotic in your flag-waving than Hergest, I don't have to guess that you're under a different electrical standard from over here. The US receptacles you buy at the store are flimsy pieces of crap--the plugs wobble in their sockets and spark when you unplug them. When you get yourself decent connectors that grip well and don't tarnish, the sound of your hi-fi improves considerably.
Thanks for looking,
DE
Sockets are in the garage and come in multiple sizes, snap on to ratcheting handles thus comprising a "Socket Wrench".
The device in question is a 'Duplex Receptacle'. When properly installed in a wiring system it becomes an 'Outlet'; sub-species: 'Receptacle Outlet'.
...according to Websters, anyway:
socket |ˈsäkit|
noun
1 a natural or artificial hollow into which something fits or in which something revolves : the eye socket.
• the part of the head of a golf club into which the shaft is fitted.
2 an electrical device receiving a plug or light bulb to make a connection.
verb ( -eted , -eting ) [trans.]
1 place in or fit with a socket.
2 Golf old-fashioned term for shank.
ORIGIN Middle English (in the sense [head of a spear, resembling a plowshare] ): from an Anglo-Norman French diminutive of Old French soc ‘plowshare,’ probably of Celtic origin.
Tain't in the National Electric Code, Art. 100-Definitions.
Neither is "light bulb".
Neither is "juice".
No commercial product of this type available in the US by any manufacturer will have the carton labeled "socket", but always "receptacle".
P.S.- I was just having a little fun-- picking some nits. No hostility intended.
P.S.- I was just having a little fun-- picking some nits. No hostility intended.
Umm, so was I. :-)
Standard wall sockets are not that great and do wear out in time. If you have an old house just replacing the outlet will give a better connection. Replacing that with a hospital grade outlet is even better (around $10 if I remember right).
Will any of this make an audible difference to the sound? That's the $10 or $100 (depending on which outlet you buy) question. :)
You need to do a jaunt over to Tweaks for the past few years and read up. Lots of us have tested the difference, and believe me, there is a significant difference!
I'm on an extremely tight budget for this hobby, but I've found that the better audio grade outlets and plugs are well worth it and far below the cost of all the expensive gear/cabling changes most go through for the same results.
FWIW, I went from wall crap to P&S, tried Hubbells (but didn't like them), to Furutech and then Oyaide. I must tell you that the jump from everything in the standard electrical supply catalogs up to Furu and Oyaide was substantial sonically.
I know it seems ridiculous. But it works and it works consistently well in lots of systems.
The British plugs and outlets, for example, are truly beefy compared to that in the US. But that's far from the only variable affecting the sound. The metals used, the housings used, the polish/surface on the metals -- all make a very very big difference. Were the issue beef alone, it would be a different story.
So please don't assume this is all BS. IME, it's definitely NOT!
Best recommendation I've ever read! And the most credible.
I've only done the most desultory dinking with power cables and connectors and I'm sure they deserve more, just to be sure if nothing else.
Thanks for the hearty recommendation.
Rick
Hi bartc,The British plugs and outlets, for example, are truly beefy compared to that in the US. But that's far from the only variable affecting the sound. The metals used, the housings used, the polish/surface on the metals -- all make a very very big difference. Were the issue beef alone, it would be a different story.
British plugs, by law, must have a built-in fuse, so a lot of the sonic benefits of good construction are crippled right there. The German shuko plugs are interesting. Since they're unpolarized, you can change the phase by reversing line and neutral with a simple 180˚ turn of the wrist. I've got this nagging thought that Oyaide or Furutech make shuko plugs and/or receptacles, but I can't find a reference for them at this moment.
DE
Edits: 11/01/08
Picture above is the P004e, the Shuko version of the popular Beryllium Copper P004. All Oyaide shuko plugs model numbers end with a postfix E, presumably to stand for initials of European ;-)
Thanks hotbird. That's a really interesting picture because it's not what I know as a shuko! I guess there must be different standards. The shuko I was thinking about has a symmetrical pin layout, and can be plugged in two different ways: it's the first entry on this list . Your shuko has an offset ground, and could only be coupled in one way. Interesting!
Thanks for your comments!
DE
Maybe you saw the empty round slot where a 3rd grounding pin may be fitted and it confused you. As far as I know, the 2 round pins are the same size and you can fit them in facing one way or rotate it 180 degrees and still fit them facing the other way into typical Schuko outlets. You can see more revealing photos at the Oyaide website below. Notice that there are 2 diametically opposite grooves with metal contacts on the Oyaide Shuko plugs to pair with the grounding clips on the Schuko outlet (picture of which can be seen at your previously posted URL)
Edits: 11/02/08
Hi hotbird, thanks for the clarification.
About a year ago I toyed with the idea of having a shuko as my wall socket and running 220V to it. I would then have had my P-1000 Power Plant step down the voltage to 118V to feed my other components. My reasoning was to get the common mode noise-canceling benefits of balanced power into an Oyaide or Furutech shuko receptacle. The shuko being chosen to stop people in my house from accidentally plugging 120V appliances into a 220V socket. I still seems like a decent idea to me, but I couldn't find a suitable cable to run from the wall to my Power Plant, so I abandoned the plan.
And so another life of daring and adventure is quietly stifled... ;-)
DE
Hi Grant, thanks for your interest.I agree with everything you say. My first foray into higher quality electrical sockets came from a recommendation on this website for a Pass & Seymour 5241-I hospital grade receptacle . Bob Crump, the author of that post, had tested many sockets and had chosen that model as a particularly good-sounding one. I don't think it's available anymore, but there are plenty of inexpensive alternatives to be had and this should be the starting point for anyone wanting to experiment further in this area.
To my ears there is a very beneficial audible difference. I moved from the P&S 5241-I, to the original PS Audio Power Port and now to the Power Port Premier and I've heard a substantial sonic improvement each time. Experimentation is key here, and there are a few good manufacturers to choose from--PS Audio is simply the one I'm most familiar with. Many investigators report different characteristics for different sockets--a search on this Asylum will reveal many posts on this subject.
The P3 has raised the bar way beyond what I reasonably expected for a replacement of this kind, and I'm simply reporting it, albeit excitedly! However PS Audio's 30-day trial period does take the risk out of your $99 speculation ;-)
Thanks again.
DE
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