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I'm looking for a conventional UL or Pentode push pull kit. It must come with a chassis, which keeps tubelab from contending.
The only two I'm finding thus far:
1. Audionote Kits L1 (which can be bought with C core OPT, albeit at a substantial adder)
2. Erhard Audio ST35, which is a Dynaco close with a better PSU and Dynaco iron.
Any other ones I'm missing? Oddwatt isn't responding and their's is class A 4 watts anyway, rather low in power.
Any comments on the ANkits or Erhard? I've read where the Dynaco Z565 output transformers are really good and I have to believe Audionote iron is likewise good (EI core or C core)
Follow Ups:
Long Ohio Winter nights are perfect for drilling a chassis. Just factor $200 or so into the price of your amp for a 10" drill press and bits. Then get the Tubelab board.
Half the fun.
In research as in life one is far more likely to find what one looks for than what one neglects. -The Modern Researcher, Barzun and Graff
It was because of a problem in the preamp section that was just to hard to pin down. I cut off the mounting tabs for the faceplate and just used the amp section. It sounded really good that way
nt
"I know just enough to get into trouble. But not enough to get out of it."
I receive "on sale" notifications from the tube store. Latest was for the Japanese Elekits. I am not familiar with any kits, but thought would pass this along. No affiliation.
Cheers!
Jonesy
"I know just enough to get into trouble. But not enough to get out of it."
I bought their TU-8200DX kit a few years ago, and it is my daily player.
Their kits are pretty awesome, ( at least my is).
Great parts selection, great documentation and excellent customer support/service from Viktor. He usually responds and goes out of the way to make sure you are taken care. Plus they have a forum here on the AA. I just don't recall them having a EL84 kit though, but it's been a while since I checked their site.
After my HK Cit II build and my Altec 604 project, I am looking at maybe trying out their TU-8340 with the Lundhall opt's. That will be probably next year, or later this year.
If I simply want a good amp to listen to and not be in the build of the month club, I would go with the AudioNote kit. It has great cosmetics which is a big component of long term satisfaction.Another ST35 type -- http://triodestore.com/diy35kit.html
Note that a single ended KT88 or EL34 will get you over 10 watts too.
Edits: 02/26/19
Hmmmm.... tempting. I wish it wasn't built yet though. I was looking at those ST-120's.
Just add tubes
After reading the description more thoroughly, I saw that......thanks!
Even, dare I say it, rethinking it.
EL84s and EL84Ms are among the most economical good sounding valves around.
Warmest
Tim Bailey
Skeptical Measurer & Audio Scrounger
Need to source those 7199 tubes...
With integrateds and rcvrs which I might use in the bedroom or FR/K HT system I'll stick with transistors.
Much cheaper to have done up / serviced.
:-)
Warmest
Tim Bailey
Skeptical Measurer & Audio Scrounger
.
"Need to source those 7199 tubes."
Extinct, unobtainium, gone the way of the Dodo .
Scott provides a solution to the problem. Use a pentode/triode that's still available. Refer to the 222D . FWIW, I favor the 6BL8. However, the 6U8, 6GH8, and 6BL8 are pretty much interchangeable here.
Eli D.
EL84 HH Scott amp-wise. Like the look of those irons, for a moderate powered integrated amp.
Edits: 02/26/19 02/26/19
I abandoned old integrated amps long ago in favor of straight power amps. The former can't be fully restored because the pots and switches are NLA. And even if you could miraculously find a stash of all those old controls, the sonics of most old integrated amps weren't generally up to modern high-end standards, even when they were new. They're nice to look at, but I prefer to listen. I'll leave it to others to create the museum. :)
--------------------------
Buy Chinese. Bury freedom.
of pre and power amps.BTA the FVP built for me in a QUAD 22 box plus remote PSU by Allen Wright's business when still here, rapidly ( <2 yrs) developed problems. AWE got a Chapman multi-band mono valve tuner, two QUAD IIs, and a LEAK St60 on loan, to tell me what he thought of it.
(When I finally dragged the 60 away from Joe Rasmussen I swapped it for two LEAK St20s which are now Once Were's to my delight. ?? See Reviews here. They are now in the same state. ? Four 470uf 400V dark-brown Nichicons two of in each case in series? and the last two bypassed. )
The pre-amp is still similar in design to an FVP. But uses just two Sovtek 12AX7s in the RIAA phono* stage. The line input and extra gain* stage is a 12AT7,
and the output is a 12AU7 in CF,
instead of a 12AX7 in CF .....
.... which is an idea you'd have to worry about - in an AWE's fame context - eh?
Perhaps he skimped on the PSU, eh. Heaven forbid! ;-)
Warmest
Tim Bailey
Skeptical Measurer & Audio Scrounger
Edits: 02/26/19
Too much work hunting little parts and cleaning etc. for something that is not nostalgic for me. Fun to look at but, I don't want it or to have to deal with it.
Not really like a fresh build that is really yours.
You could take the transformers from a vintage that is bad and build something but, that might not be a huge savings.
Separate power amps and preamps are much easier to troubleshoot as well. Simplified in comparison.
It's too bad about the pots. I have a whole stash of NOS Stackpole, CTS, etc pots for my guitars & amp fixes. But, sadly few stereo-gang ones.8^(
Edits: 02/26/19
Maybe I'm a perfectionist, but I just wasn't happy with the result of doing that. The resulting amplifier functioned OK, but it was a bastardized version of its former self. Half a dozen knobs and switches on the front panel did nothing, and it wasn't very satisfying to use. At an emotional level, It created a very negative impact in the system I was using, always raising the question of why I couldn't just build or buy (or restore) a real amplifier. Even if I wasn't bothered by this, there's little reason now to take such an approach. Prices for high quality integrated amps in good condition routinely hit $300 to $600 or more. Paying that much essentially for the transformers (and a chassis which also often needs restoration) just doesn't make sense.
--------------------------
Buy Chinese. Bury freedom.
Perhaps a tad too much closed loop gain is the only (IMO) legitimate criticism that can be made of the 222D's power section topology.
Assuming you already own a unit, bring C23 and C123 out to a convenient pair of RCA females and you've completed the isolation of the power section.
Give consideration to changing the value of those 2 caps. to 910 pF., to provide some protection against infrasonic noise induced O/P "iron" core saturation.
"It's too bad about the pots. I have a whole stash of NOS Stackpole, CTS, etc pots for my guitars & amp fixes. But, sadly few stereo-gang ones."
The tone control pots. are individual, not ganged. So, your "stash" has definite potential.
Several options are available for the volume control, should you forego loudness compensation. Michael Percy still has some 250 Kohm Noble conductive plastic stereo pots. and those could be used to retain loudness compensation. Of course, re-engineering is needed to accommodate the value change.
Eli D.
Will need to think about this. I really don't need another audio amp. But, that didn't stop me from collecting a bazillion guitars & guitar amps.
8^)
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