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Well, I bought a Tandberg 330 on Ebay, and it doesn't work, of course. Played with a clicking noise and variations in tape speed.
Started to record with clunking noises and then stopped taking up the tape and let it un-spool in the tape well. SOoooooo; I've
been wondering about the various Teac decks for sale here and about,
such as the A-601R, A-106, A-800, A-420, and similar units.
Can't seem to find anything specific to these in the forums. Any
thoughts on these? Appreciate your expertise as always;
Follow Ups:
I have plenty of TEACs - I am a big fan of both TEAC and TASCAM for home use. I have a couple of TEAC C-1's, one of which is just like a brand new deck, the other is about a 9.5 out of 10 - they are stunning performers, with 3 heads and 3 powerful motors. Belts can easily be bought for a few cents from Russell Industries/PAB Line, and it helps if you know the parts number as they offer belt search software. New pinch roller rubbers are $35 each (fitted to the shafts) from Terry Witt. I am selling a C-3RX right now and it is a phenomenal deck, with onboard calibration etc, but the C-1 is, IMHO the ultimate cassette icon. I have recently disposed of my Nakamichi Dragon - too fussy and dainty by far. Whilst I am a huge C-1 fan, I recognize that many people want to record/playback metal tapes, which the C-1 is not set up for, whilst the C-3RX is. Mainly I use Chrome tapes, so it's not an issue and the reproduction is so good that I just don't need the expense of Type IV tape. The C-1 gets 20Hz to 20kHz using Chrome! Fitting new belts is not for the starter in hifi maintenance, however. It involves a heck of a lot of disassembly to get anywhere near the flywheels and motor. The C-1 uses 2 belts, one driving the main (leading) capstan, the other connects both flywheels to drive the second (trailing) capstan in tandem. the C-1 has twin DC direct drive motors for FF/RW and is, thefeore, amazingly quick and quiet in that department. The C-3RX uses an idler arrangement for FF/RW, so that wheels and belts are involved. It is, as someone already mentioned, virtually identical to the TASCAM 122 but includes DBX as standard.
Wonderful response; thank you all. Pretty much the same advise
provided last month, just a hit or miss market. I figure if they
advertise ' functional ' and ' plays and records ', and have
PayPal buyer protection, as opposed to Ebay buyer protection, which is a scam and a half, I'm in decent shape. I'll follow up and
let everyone know the outcome of my PayPal complaint. They have paid off in the past. Kind of had my heart set on meters, but
that LX-5 just might entice me.
HelloI see you go for old glorious legendary decks. Do you collect them?. These are quite prone to be non functional. I am a collector and avoid these old devices if they are not given nearly for free. They usually require maintenance work.
I have two tandberg 3034 that are different from yours. They are wonderful decks if maintained (belts and solder joints mines), Quite difficult to do due to how they are build and assembled, but give no problems otherwise.
I have a Teac A-450. I have spend no time on her, so I can't tell you much about it.
Hi:
Where do you be able to obtain the belts of the Tandberg 3034? It has six of them. Soundsmith won't sell replacement belts of the 3034 at all. Thanks.
Hello.I live in Spain, in a small city near another bigger city (50.000 h) There is a electronic equipment store (not "consumer electronics").
They sell belts from a general electronic and parts brand. I just brought my old belt to them and they sold me one with similar smaller diameter and width. I suppose it doesn't perform like the original one, but for sure much better than an aged original.
I've bought many belts from them, and they seem to have stock. If they run out of them I would try eBay for an assorted pack of belts. A bigger store in a much bigger city didn't have belts, so I suppose I have been lucky till today.
This deck has only one motor, so it is not a low wow and flutter design. I suppose that using a slightly differtent belt will not do much harm.
AM I wrong?
Hey, Panzer.If I were to buy a TEAC deck, I'd hold out for a nice clean C-series deck (C-1, C-2, or C-3) or a Z-5000, 6000, or 7000 as kingseiko suggested.
The C-1 & C-2 decks are basically slight variations of the TASCAM 122, and the C-3 is virtually identical to a 122.
I have a C-2x, & it's a fabulous and bulletproof deck.
Good luck,
Bobbo :-)
As Bobbo said the TEAC C-1 and C-2 are wonderful decks and they are all bulletproof made. However, some of the parts of these two decks are no longer available ( i.e. pinch-rollers for example ). I have a C-1 with all optional bias plus-in cards. However, the pinch-rollers are all worn out. I was told that these rollers are no longer in available and require re-surface of the rollers. My C-1 requires over $400 to bring in back to like-new condition because a lot of parts have been worn out after so many years.I really suggest to go for the C-3X and C-3RX instead. The C-3X is very nice especially if you can locate the optional T-O8 oscillator box for bias/level calibration of different brands of tapes.
Hey Panzer, sorry to hear about the 330, those Tandberg uprights are such sweet decks! I bought an 310 MKII a few months ago locally, no chance for damage during shipping and it is in near pristine shape and performs and sounds great. I had the same epay problems with a number of 310's in the past. My first epay Tandberg upright arrived damaged from Airborne, the whole corner of the deck was crushed! Although my MKII is not a 3 header like your 330, it has that wonderful Tandberg warmth.IF you can afford $500-$1000 bones, I'd keep my eye out for a Tandberg 3014, as my most recent addition, again locally, has one of the most solid builds of any deck I have experienced. There have been some bugs to work out, as long as you have a tech you can trust, I couldn't recommend a better, more well built, more fun to use deck.
However, if you have no way to fix or service your decks, I might recommend a Tascam, the 122 or the 112 series, but stick with 3 head performance so you can monitor while recording.
And, I have to say, although the older Nakamichi decks need servicing to keep them going, my all time favorite Nak LX-5 has served me very well and just keeps on ticking... You can usually find these in the low to mid $200's, and it's a lot of deck for that price. Nak would be easier to find service for than a lot of the older Tandberg gear.
Good luck!
Stickwork
Nowadays it is very hard to find a tape deck on ebay that does not require some kind of service(s) before one can really think that it will not break down anytime. If one has a great deck that performs flawlessly do you think he/she will sell it. It is up to the seller(s) to disclose to the potential buyer how many problem(s) the deck actually has. Tandberg cassette deck is very expensive and time consuming to service and there is not that many places in the States that can fix them. If you are really interested in the TEAC cassette deck try to find a good C-3X and the Z-5000/6000/7000. You won't be disappointed with any one of these. The C-3X and C-3RX are frequently seen in ebay and cheap and parts are still available from TEAC U.S.A. However, the Z-5000/6000/7000 are hard to find and very expensive. In top form they will beat most of the high-end Nakamichi decks. Those TEAC you mentioned in your original messages are not worth to invest in, unfortunately.
Hope this help,
Mike
If you want the best possible advise, I would have to say buy the nicest (and probably) most expensive deck you can afford. Even if that means spending anywhere between $400 and $800, chances are, you'll get a nice deck with few or no problems. While they may cost more upfront, you have evidently found out the hard way that those "bargain" [older] decks usually turn out to be anything but. What you think you're saving in cost of procurement is lost (and then some) in time, repairs, searching for parts and qualified techs, and frustration. Any of the later model Teacs-such as X-300R, X-1000R, X-10R, X-1000R, X-20R, X-2000R, X-700R, etc., if in good condition (and a lot of bidding as well as a good seller reputation, description, and pictures will tell you this) would be the way to go.
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