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Just wondering if I could get some professional advise on these speakers. I picked them up last week and did a comparison to my re-capped Pioneer HPM-150 speakers played through McIntosh MC-30's and Fisher C-90 pre-amps that were re-built by Mike Samra. I have Jantzen Superior Z-caps in the Pioneers with Black Hole #5 sound insulation. They sound great with the Macs. I typically play vinyl on a Thorens TD-160 with I believe is a Denon 110 cartridge. Anyway the Altec 19's crossover is original. I noticed that the bass in the Altecs is much deeper than the Pioneers but there is absolutely no high end detail. I paid $1300.00 for the 19's and the cabs are in great shape. I would like to keep the 19's but am not sure if after a full re-cap that would cost me $500.00 to $600.00 that they would be as good as my Pioneers. Should I sell them and recoup my money or keep them and re-cap them? Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve
Follow Ups:
nt
The Jantzen Superiors and Mundorf silver in oil caps are top notch for higher price caps. I highly recommend the red Audyn caps as best bang for the buck. Also the Sonicaps are very good for a little more money. I find Dayton polys somewhat veiled with constrained dynamics.
Edits: 06/12/17
From the pic you posted, your 19s are missing the foam inserts that surround the horn. They need to be replaced for best results. Also keep in mind that the M19 xover is unconventional esp as implemented in the HF section. One of the apparent "L" pads is actually wired as a rheostat in the common leg of the "bridged T" HF eq network to vary midrange depression.
Much about the 19 has been discussed at the Audio Karma site by the late, great "Zilch". Worth a search over there where you'll also find his mods to the xover under the "Z19" designation. Educational even if you stay stock. Also much info at the Lansing Heritage site but tough to navigate (IMO).
I would definitely keep the 19's. They are VERY good speakers.
(I'm jealous!)
I agree with jaynemo on not getting carried away with "high end" caps. Standard Jantzen or Audyn are fine. Spend the money saved on replacing the resistors with Mills wire-wound or equivalent.
Definitely replace the L-pads with new units. The Partsexpress L-pads are decent or order high quality mil-spec parts from Digikey, Mouser,etc.
Enjoy!!
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Freak out...Far out...In out....
Thanks for the response. So replacing the L-pads will make a difference? What is wrong with the ones that are there? Can't I just clean them with deoxit?
I suggested new L-pads due to the age of the originals. Being mechanical devices they do wear out. Cleaning may "fix" them but issues may return, likely sooner than later. Keep in mind that the signal is going through them so it is pretty important that the contacts are good.
I replace them as a matter of course with any vintage speaker.
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Freak out...Far out...In out....
Well, I took out the crossovers and took apart the L-pads and cleaned them up with Deoxit and now I get some better sound! But I am not getting any sound out of one of the horns. I took it out and I think the ground was off or it just fell off when I was pulling it out. I don't think the latter happened because I was very careful and slow doing this. Well anyway I tested the horn on a multimeter and I get nothing. No reading. I tested another small horn I have laying around and I get a reading. I opened up the back of the horn and I see nothing wrong with the diaphragm. What's up? Is it blown? I thought I was getting a little sound out of it a few days ago.
Yes the diaphragm is toast. The coil is apparently "open". You can not tell by looking at it that it is bad, but the multimeter does not lie. Get new diaphragms from Great Plains Audio. Probably not cheap, but keep in mind that any money you put into these speakers is a safe investment. You should have no problem getting your full investment back.
For the L-pads from partsexpress you want the 100 watt model. You have four choices, 8 ohm or 16 ohm, 3/8" long shaft or 1" long shaft. The L-pad should be marked on the back as to what the ohm value is. They are most likely 8 ohm.
Good luck.
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Freak out...Far out...In out....
So the diaphragm is bad? I don't see any cracks or damage to it. I don't need a new driver because the coil is open? Since I'm replacing one should I do both? Before the horn went and after I cleaned the L-pads I can see how these speakers can blow away any other speaker. The bass and mid-range was phenomenal! Made my HPM-150's sound muddy. I think this could be my last set of speakers.
The coil is integral to the diaphragm. The diaphragm itself will look fine but there is a break somewhere in the coil winding.
Yes, do replace both. Contact Great Plains and they will help you get the right parts and answer any questions. You could also send them the drivers to be restored. They recharge the magnets and replace the diaphragms.
I'm glad you like the 19's. You got a great price on them.
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Freak out...Far out...In out....
I guess I will start with the L-Pads. Can you suggest a make and item number for those from Parts Express or another electronics store? I have looked at some and have no idea which ones to order. Thanks
The original caps were Callins electrolytics that cost pennies each (Callins made the best electrolytic crossover caps, but they had a short lifespan), some budget film caps that cost a couple of dollars each will be a vast improvement.
I would spend a couple of bucks and replace the level controls too.
After you solder in the new controls, give them a squirt of De-Oxit (heat degrades De-Oxit).
If they still don't have enough sparkle for you, spend $100 each on new diaphragms from GPA. Aluminum work-hardens over time and degrades the response.
Hello Steve
I assume you verified that he high frequency horns are not blown.
Google Altec Model 19 ground connection.
There's a corrosion problem, easily fixed, which may relate to your issue.
Exercising the mid/high frequency control may demonstrate a dirty intermittent connection there as well.
These are really worth fixing up.
Thanks for the reply. How do I test the horns? A voltmeter? I am pretty new at this but do love a good sounding system. I have replaced caps before that is about the extent of my tech skills. How do I clean the l-pads? Can I use DeOxit or do I have to take them apart? And any suggestions for caps? I am willing to spend a little extra for good ones.
...4 caps per crossover and you're figuring $500-600 for ungrades?
"That was some weird shit".- George Bush
I was looking at some higher end capacitors for these. Something like the Jantzen Superior Z-caps. I will consider other caps as well. Ever see the prices on these things lately?
In my opinion your "overcapping" these speakers. Again, in my opinion there is no need for over priced boutique caps in these, you will get excellent results using Solens or even Dayton poly's for a huge fraction of the cost. Perhaps then have a lot of money left over to replace the resistors with metal oxide type and even maybe air core inductors and new hook up wire.
Luckily I "had" a friend in the speaker DIY biz and he was giving me some of the inside trade "sales" secrets. Caps are the number one rip off. After you hit a cost point you're just paying for hype. He recommended, so I now use them, ClarityCap ESAs. JUST as good as the $100 caps.
If you are going to rebuild the crossovers then just, get better resistors and clean up all connections. LEAVE!!!! the coils. Coils DON'T go bad and are used for their resistance value as well as mH values. A coil is nothing more than a spool of copper wire - NOTHING to go bad!!!!
Thanks for the response. I appreciate all opinions. Anyway I have tried Daytons in the past and I think they are okay but am willing to spend a little extra for better ones. Yea you're right about the boutique caps they are very expensive and if I can get a great sound without spending all that money I am down with that. I was thinking something higher end for the horn and possibly something more generic for the woofer since there is not much detail in the bass.
The Claritycaps will work VERY well with the horns. The Solens can get a tad "dark".
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