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In Reply to: RE: My experiences with new M-60 Mk.3.3s, good and not-so-good posted by Lew on April 25, 2016 at 10:04:10
Yes, I understand that the chassis surfaces help cool the amp, but I suspect the bottom cover does very little of that. Probably I'll apply very little SoundCoat to the ceiling of the chassis. Since I'll add little damping to the ceiling of the chassis, I plan to add four stainless-steel bars, probably 3/4-by-2-by-4-1/2" to be cushioned with some sort of Herbies pads, placed on edge atop the chassis, one each between the rows of output tubes and two alongside the frontend tubes. It's easy for me to visualize that, but I expect a few pictures will be worth hundreds of words.
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Tin-eared audiofool, large-scale-Classical music lover, and damned-amateur fotografer.
William Bruce Cameron: "...not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted."
Follow Ups:
on my first and only reading of your post, I thought you lamented the lack of "feet" and so are using your own solution to that problem.
The best, really only, way I have ever read about (but never used) to cure the "problem" (if it is a problem) of vibrating capacitors and resistors is that spray-on or paint-on compound, can't recall the name of it, that really does dampen vibrations. However, it must be a nightmare if you later want to change out parts or service the circuit. Other than that, one could use double-sided tape and other forms of goop. So what do you do?
One guru on TubeDIY actually recommended keeping capacitor and resistor leads as long as possible and coiling them up so as to allow the leads to act like a spring, in an attempt to decouple the part from the vibration of the chassis. But that leaves the part free in space to vibrate secondary to signal transfer.
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