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Can someone go step by step to bypass the fuses on 3.5. Thanks!
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buy some of those hodaddy synergistic research orange audiophile-approved
fuses! A mere $159.95 from VHaudio! Such a bargain! And you are bound
to hear improvements and there's no chance of screwing up the wiring!
Whether or not you can observe a thing depends upon the theory you use. It is the theory which decides what can be observed. - Albert Einstein
Don't go for the cheap S.R. orange fuses, not worth it. I can highly recommend the Audio Magic Premier Ultimate Fuse, at just under 400$, a absolute must have! They will transform a LRS to a 20.7!!
Whether or not you can observe a thing depends upon the theory you use. It is the theory which decides what can be observed. - Albert Einstein
Make sure you do NOT short any of the wires to the face plate.After you make the connections, do a continuity check on the wires to make sure the face plate is still isolated from all of the speaker wires.
Edits: 09/25/20
would also recommend going down to Goodwill or Salvation Army and getting a pair of 'sacrifice' speakers to hook up after 'any' internal work is done to your Maggies or electronics.
The cost of a drive down there and back plus speakers ($15 bucks tops) can potentially save you a TON of tears!
The question is most likely where the green and red wires go plus do I cut all the connections black from fuses
You can just unscrew the black wire from the (Mid/Tweetet) POSITIVE(+) input post. Leave the eyelet on the black wire (no need to cut it to disconnect it) and just take the whole eyelet off the post.
You can also just move the red eyelet over to the (Mid/Tweeter) POSTIIVE(+) binding post.
You will have to cut or unsolder the green wire to move it (unless that is a spade connector, hard to tell from the picture).
Here are a couple pics of the plate front and back.
Green and red wires go here.The black wire going to the top of both fuse holders can be disconnected from the positive (Mid/Tweeter) post.
If you trace the circuit, both green and red wires originate from the (Mid/Tweeter) post so you will just bypass all 3 holders.
Edits: 09/25/20 09/25/20
Thanks!!!!!!
Can you also post the front of the plate so we can see the labels ?If the bottom right 2 are the tweeter attenuator, than the red and green wires need to be relocated to the mid/tweeter POSITIVE(+) input terminal.
Also, the white wire looks half connected.
Edits: 09/25/20 09/25/20
Here's the front
Just rewire the back of the face plate to bypass the fuse, fuse holders and extra connections if that is what you REALLY WANT TO DO.
To bypass the 20.1's fuses, fuse holder and tweeter attenuator sockets, the yellow and white wires would be moved to the Mid/Tweeter input POSTIVE(+) post.
Edits: 09/25/20 09/25/20 09/25/20 09/25/20 09/25/20
I need to know where to cut and what color wire goes where I also want to bypass attenuator as well
Good idea to clean up the signal path and lose all that resistance, just hope you have a quality amp to keep you out of trouble!
While you're at it, you should replace all those crappy connectors + spades with high quality parts from WBT, otherwise it's just a half done job. You can do a cold weld with silver paste.
Whether you will hear a difference or not will depend on the quality of the set.
Yeah, I was going to suggest the same. The Magnepan speaker cable connectors should have been replaced by them years ago, real trash (some of the parts are Ferrous!). All the Cardas binding posts fit the stock mounting holes without any modification required. Solder the internal wires directly onto them.
Post a picture of the front and back of your 3.5 plate and we can help.I updated my post with a picture of the front and back plate of the 20.1 face plate.
It is pretty easy to trace out.
Found this on the web. If it actually represents your 3.5, it is pretty easy to follow.
Edits: 09/25/20 09/25/20
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