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In Reply to: The trouble with your DIY stands is .... posted by andyr on November 19, 2006 at 00:19:06:
Hi Andy, thanks for the advice. I really like your stands. I take it they perform better than Mye stands due to having more bracing points?I can see how having my struts at more of an angle would make it even more rigid. I take it that you think there shouldn't be front struts at all?
Follow Ups:
Hah! Whether they actually perform better than Mye stands is a matter of conjecture ... but theory says they should since, as you say, mine are braced at several points.The only reason I made my own up is that it is extremely expensive to ship Grant's stands to Oz.
Yes, I think if you had the 2' at the back so you can angle the brace(s), you wouldn't need any front struts (so the WAF would go up!! :-)) ).
Good luck!
Andy,How hard would it be to reconfigure your design for 1.6's? I'm in country NSW so getting Grants stands is out of the question. I'm sure construction and freight from where ever you are would work out much better dollars wise.
Cheers,
Can you honestly say that your stands or the mye stands make a significant difference...try to be objective as possible since I have never tried using extra support for my 1.6's.What gains have you received? I've of course heard the usual...better soundstage, increased focus and dynamics etc.. is this true to you? what's the best sonic improvement youve heard since switching to your stands?
I guess I'm just a lil spectical about the extra bracing, though I would love to hear your feedback!
Forgive my spelling & take care,
Jon
Hi Jon,I know it's hard to believe but, yes, using Mye stands or braced equivalents DOES make a significant difference. Both "dynamicity" (I invented that word because "dynamic" actually has a slightly different meaning ... anyway "punchiness" is an equivalent term! :-)) ) and soundstage benefit.
I think the reason for this is founded in Newton's Law (for every action ... etc.). With the normal wimpy Maggie feet, the panel can sway backwards and forwards. Bolting them to a heavy steel base reduces this movement considerably but they can still react minutely when they produce, say, a drum strike. When braces are added, the frames have no way of going backwards when they produce the drum strike, so you get the full percussive impact coming from the mylar.
And I suspect soundstage benefits because this is influenced by micro movements of the mylar and the fact that the frame is now rigid means all these micro vibrations can be faithfully delivered by the mylar panel.
The same thing happens if you do my "replace the staples with some steel angle-iron trick" and bolt the driver assembly firmly to the MDF frame. Both I and some friends who know my system well agree that this made them much more dynamic, when I did this mod. (But it won't do anything unless the MDF frames are firmly held, in braced stands).
Go for the Mye stands! It will make your 1.6s sound much better!
Regards,
I have Mye stands on my MG 1.6s and I concur with your assessment. While I can't be sure, it seems reducing the panel's movement may also have resulted in a slight rise in the efficiency of these speakers since so much energy must be lost as the panel vibrates.I was wondering if anyone has done a comparison between the "standard" Mye stands and the stealth model. In the stealth model the panels are just off the floor in comparison to the 2 or 3 inches of air under the panels on the none stealth models. I would think there should be some audible differences in the bass given the speakers are placed in same location in the same room.
I would think Maestro Grant would be the one to tell us the difference in sound between panels being just off the floor vs 2 or 3" off.My own IIIa stands hold the bottom of the MDF frame just off the floor (as the stock feet do) so I've never been able to try them raised a bit.
Mebbe this Q is only relevant to the smaller Maggies as the 3-ways are always to-the-floor?
Regards,
Yes that would be quite simple - although I think I've got a better idea for my stands which will make them easier to transport (I plan to convert mine in the NY).If you're in country NSW, I would think you'd have a convenient metalwork shop ... but what about a powder-coater?
Email me direct so we can continue this conversation. :-))
Regards,
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