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In Reply to: RE: One of my favorite album covers.... posted by Green Lantern on April 18, 2021 at 06:30:07
Using an 8x10 was certainly a bold choice. For creative purposes? WOW is all I can say. Triumphed in what pepole who know even a little about photography is a 'worst case' scenario.
fitting the dynamic range from pure white to just black AND getting the shadows right is tough and for ME, a big ot luck AND bracketing.......if possible.
That's why I liked using Kodak NC films at weddings. It was what came AFTER Vericolor S and was better in most ways. First wedding I shot (after a 1 roll 'test') had perfect contrast and you could see right into the folds of the black tux slacks the men were wearing.....And no blown highlights. Of course, flash was in use to 'even' things out a bit. But still? I could never have got those shots with ANY of the Kodacolor I'd ever used.
As for Grey Scale? Good Improv. The trick, is of course, the MIDDLE tones. If you are still processing, I have both a Color and B&W Dataguides from KODAK. Info about most of the films is gone and I haven't seen E3 processing in decades....BUT, the technical stuff is good and not only does each book include a GREY SCALE but a step tablet, too.....
Want 'em? Still good material with the B&W even having all the TMax films listed....
Since you guys at class were Film Based, any problem with simply bracketing your way to success?
Maybe a couple rolls of same +- exposures followed by different development times? Without knowing what YOU know, that's the way I'd start......?? Any merit to that approach?
I know, THAN you hae to PRINT IT.....something I was always weak at. Not having any schooling OR mentoring, I learned by myself, and probalby HALF o THAT was wrong!
Too much is never enough
Follow Ups:
Especially with b/w which had a HUGE latitude for exposure correction (if I'm not mistaken '7 stops!' and I think Pan-X had even more..although during certain operating room cases where there are 'no take backs' I did bracket early on because we were using ekatchrome and you're lucky to get the 1/2 stop latitude Kodak claim it had it.
Personally I used a gray card for b/w metering it with a spot meter especially for landscapes.
Other up-close work our Nikon flashes pretty much nailed it each time
thanks for the offer but I'm ok on litature.
that's what my first Digital camera reminded me of......Transsparency film......I shot lots of HS Ektachrome @400 (push) and if I wanted saturation? Drop 1/3 stop to 125.......
Fuji Velvia was also picky. Bad color balance for PEOPLE but terrific for NATURE. I can't remember, but I think many people bumped it 1/3 stop on a regular basis......
My Go-To transparentcy was Provia. I think you could get it at 1600 or 3200? Don't remmeber.
But I DO remember Fuji 800ASA print film, which was for me much better than Kodak which always seemed 'blocky' to me.....I think Fuji called it 'Superia'.......
I kind of go a different direction for metering. I use my Sekonic as an incident meter ON the subjects. Both those dataguides I reffered to have grey cards in 'em.....
Never used flash until I started doing weddings. But I must say that the Nikon Metering system is great. Even If i'm being picky, 1/2 a stop is about IT for corrections. Viewfinder CAN have a full histogram display, but I seldom use it. distracting.
And NOBODY but the dedicated Home Develpper would want either of my dataguides. The color guide is from '68 (was 4.95$ than) and the B&W is from '88 and was 12.95$ Nested with these guides was a Kodak B&W darkroom guide. Perfect for the newbie....
Too much is never enough
Edits: 04/18/21 04/18/21
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