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Currently using a single BEYMA sm115/k as subwoofer. Box is roughly 120l, bass reflex
I was curious if other inmates were using that driver and what size/alignment sounds best with it for sub duties (the box I had I bought together with the driver, I feel it's not really well braced/heavy enough, I might consider rebuilding / upgrading).
Follow Ups:
This driver is really not designed for sub-woofer duties. I have noticed over the last several years, the term "sub-woofer" has lost it's original and true meaning. Also, it's now very common to simply use the shortened term, "sub". I have heard reference to a "sub" that is a .75 cubic foot box with a 6 inch driver, F^3 of 45 Hz, 80 db/w.
So, I thought to myself, how can I add value to this post ?
Please see the link for an article in Audio Magazine Aug-1976.
Well, it is indeed not a SUBwoofer in the "true" meaning of the word and won't give me the 20-35Hz band.
But I use it in a musical context to support a pair of bass horns dropping like stones under 60Hz. In that context, it is a subwoofer, and it has a lower FS than the vast majority of high sensitivity, high power 15inch drivers.
I also own a KEF TDM45B thx subwoofer whose plate amp died. That one is a sealed box, heavy diaphragm sub, and i couldn't yet find a replacement amplifier that fits - there must be some EQ involved. Without it it just sounds ridiculous. But I remember when it was working - heartshakibg bass indeed. Mostly useful for movies tho.
If you expect it to go much below 40hz, consider a tapped horn design.
According to what I've read it's not the best driver for horn loading. Is a "tapped horn" différent in its requirements?
A tapped horn in not actually horn-loaded in the bottom octave, it's a sort of tapered transmission line.It looks (in sims) to be a very good choice for a driver like yours for high efficiency deep bass.
An EV driver similar to yours.
This is a corner install, could even be behind a wall, in a closet, etc.
With no EQ, basically ±2.5dB 20hz~80hz.
With a couple of damped stubs (photo of a Danley), would go higher.
Edits: 06/08/17
I agree with this notion. That driver would kikbuti in a tapped horn.
Am I reading this right: 27 cubic feet ?
I will have to admit, a "tapped horn" is something I simply can not grasp.
In the few actual cabinet designs I have seen, there is an exit right next to the driver. I just don't "get it".
"Am I reading this right: 27 cubic feet ?"Yes, that's why I have installed large loudspeakers in another room, behind walls, etc (there is no such thing as a free lunch).
"I will have to admit, a "tapped horn" is something I simply can not grasp."
It's an old concept, dating back into the 40's. I believe Danley figured out how to model it in AkAbak, then McBean figured out how to model it in Hornresp.
Edits: 06/09/17
Back when I lived in Florida, I had two 17.5 cubic foot enclosures, each with DUAL 15's. 35 cubic foot total. That bass was almost as good as what I have now (Infinite baffle, 500 cubic feet).
My experience tells me there's no way around it. If you want SUPERB bass quality, be prepared for a very large amount of air behind a lot of cone area.
These current HT type subs pale in comparison, as far as sound quality for 2ch audio, but I suppose they are just fine for foot-stomps and explosions.
Given the choice between commercial HT subs, I'd rather do what KandK does with a legitimate woofer system using professional drivers.
I have four Big Danley tapped horn subs. Three of them are 3/4 of an arry of 4 butted together in a Chicago Imax theater.Great bass below 60 hz. is expensive. I spent half my system budget on subs and room EQ. It's flat at my sweet spot from 20-200 Hz. and it sounds good.
Edits: 06/09/17 06/09/17
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